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Honeywell Electronic Air Filter
Started by try2fix, Apr 14 2006 11:03 AM
2 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 14 April 2006 - 11:03 AM
OK, will try this newish forum.
Have Honeywell(F50E1141) electronic air filter with carrier furnace. Has 2 cells that come out for cleaning and I have kept them clean.
My question: some times after cleaning the cells, the system does not "test" as working. There is a test button on the bottom of the access door that shorts the cell and is supposed to make a popping sound.
In the access panel there is a very detailed flow diagram on how to trouble shoot and I have followed it very carefully. Neon light is on etc all is in order but no popping sound. It ususally does pop after cleaning.
I tested the cells with a volt ohm meter and there is no short between the frame and the collector or ionizer parts.
When the cells are inserted but the power is off, I get a loss of resistance between the frame and the test port; I think this means the connections with the cell and the voltage source are connected.
I think all is well but I am not sure I am getting any ionization if there is no "popping" sound when I press the test button.
Is it possible the light is on but no high voltage is being applied to the ionization wires and collecting plates?
The neon light stays on when the access door is removed; I don't recall this happening before.
Any ideas would be most welcome!
Many thanks in advance.
Have Honeywell(F50E1141) electronic air filter with carrier furnace. Has 2 cells that come out for cleaning and I have kept them clean.
My question: some times after cleaning the cells, the system does not "test" as working. There is a test button on the bottom of the access door that shorts the cell and is supposed to make a popping sound.
In the access panel there is a very detailed flow diagram on how to trouble shoot and I have followed it very carefully. Neon light is on etc all is in order but no popping sound. It ususally does pop after cleaning.
I tested the cells with a volt ohm meter and there is no short between the frame and the collector or ionizer parts.
When the cells are inserted but the power is off, I get a loss of resistance between the frame and the test port; I think this means the connections with the cell and the voltage source are connected.
I think all is well but I am not sure I am getting any ionization if there is no "popping" sound when I press the test button.
Is it possible the light is on but no high voltage is being applied to the ionization wires and collecting plates?
The neon light stays on when the access door is removed; I don't recall this happening before.
Any ideas would be most welcome!
Many thanks in advance.
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#2
Posted 14 April 2006 - 11:10 AM
although the cells appear dry once they have been washed,there is still enough water trapped in them to create a "shorted cell" scenario,i usually recommend that folks turn the power switch off and run the fan for a day with it off to completely dry the cells,then turn it back on- the best way to test is to strike the return duct with your hand when the fan is running and the unit is energized as you'll dislodge some dirt and you'll hear the cells snap as the dirt passes through-remember,when they don't snap,it is a good thing as it is a sign they are clean and efficient.
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#3
Posted 14 April 2006 - 11:33 AM
Wow, thanks for the quick reply.
I think the cells are quite dry; it has been weeks since I washed them. I tested the cells too with the volt ohm meter and got no shorting detected.
Is it possible the neon light would be on but no power to the cells?
I am also wondering about the light being on when the access door is off; don' t remember that being possible before.
Thanks
I think the cells are quite dry; it has been weeks since I washed them. I tested the cells too with the volt ohm meter and got no shorting detected.
Is it possible the neon light would be on but no power to the cells?
I am also wondering about the light being on when the access door is off; don' t remember that being possible before.
Thanks
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