25 replies to this topic

[hhu2000]

Hi, I bought a Frigidaire PLHS269ZCB4 side by side two years ago and it was working fine until couple days ago.

I looked up some very useful information on this website, but sitll can not sure what is the problem.

Here is what I did and what I found. My food compartment start to get warm couple days ago and it is also warm on the top part of the freezer. I unpluged the whole thing for a day. After I plugged it back, everything seems to work for 11 hours (evaporator fun is running fine, damper door is open, compressor is working.) Then, I guess tempreture reached certain level so the evaporator fun stopped and damper door closed. But after that, the evaprator fun never come back running again even though the damper door is open. Since the fun is not running, my food compartment is getting warm and also the top part of the freezer.

I read some posting on this web site, and think maybe this part will fix my problem,
http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=948779

but just not sure about this. I guess I have couple question here:

1. I am not sure which part actually control the evaporator fan.

2. I guess the problem could either be the Thermometer or the fun control, right? How can I test which part actually is faulty?

Thanks a lot for the help.

[Pegi]

Test to see if you have voltage to the fan motor...if so would guess a motor that is going bad, if do not have voltage trace back to see where it is lost....

[hhu2000]

Hi Pegi, thanks for your reply. The fan will run if I unplug the refigirator for a while and plug in again. And it seems it runs pretty ok when it actually runs. Do you mean this fan motor may have some problem when in cold condition or after running for a while? In order to do the test you describe, I think I have to test it when it is cold?
Thanks a lot for your help. --Alan

[Pegi]

Looks like the evap motor runs thru the ADC?   Would need to see if it is getting power from this board when the fan is not running, might have a bad Automatic Defrost Control?  SCHEMATIC  Is everything else running except for the evap fan???  YOu would need to do the test when the fan motor should be running, meaning the compressor is running..

[Ron]

Pegi is right on when she said the evap fan runs through the adaptive defrost.  The part that you listed in your first post is usually needed when everything is freezing in the food section,  although it does contain the ADC.    If you drop the cover of the adc and damper motor you should be able to test for voltage on the adc by checking the red/white stripe wire and the light blue.  Thats your evap fan.  The only thing that bothers me is that it runs after you unplug it.  You might want to check the fan itself and make sure it's not hanging up on something.  Usually when the ADC fail, they don't make a comeback...Ron

[hhu2000]

Thanks a lot. I will do a test tomorrow and let you guys know. --Alan

[hhu2000]

Hi, Anyone has an image of ADC or part number? Thanks.

[Pegi]

Part number is 241508001, here is your picture....
CLICK HERE

[hhu2000]

Is this ADC inside this http://www.repaircli...?R=154&N=948779 ?
Does not seem to find it in the image though.

I plugged in my refridgrator this afternoon and now still running ok, I am waiting for the problem to happen and then will take a test.

[Pegi]

There the crutter be hiding, looks like to me....

[hhu2000]

tried to take out the part, all the screws are pretty easy to take out. But the little knob that attached to the tempreture control unit part is so tight that I can not find a way to detach them without worrying about break both parts. Also I tried to remove the tempreture control unit altogether, but it seems like there is one place that is glued to the top ceiling. Is there any trick to seperate these two parts? Thanks. --Alan

[hhu2000]

never mind my previous post, I took out the part already... And ADC looks exactly the same as Pegi pointed out... Will do a test soon...

[hhu2000]

one quick question regarding the test. It looks like the only place that I can test the voltage is the output outlet directly from ADC control, and I can only access it by unplug the wires. But since the wires also control the compressor. Is it true if I unplug the wire from the ADC control, the compressor will stop and therefor the evap fan will be shut down as well? Or I have to strip the wire a little bit to conduct the voltage test?

Thanks. --Alan

[Pegi]

Others may know, we just test for voltage at the wires at the motor, lots easier to me..

[hhu2000]

it is really one of those ghost problems. I recoonected the control and let it run. Now it has been for couple days, everything works fine. Maybe it is just a connection problem.

Thanks a lot for you guys help.

[hhu2000]

well, it is me back again, after one and half years.  My fridge broke again couple weeks ago.  And this time is the same syptom, so I ordered the part that linked by Meggie and put it in last week.  It did works well for about a week, and then, yesterday, it stopped working again.  Top of the fridge is warm, while the bottom is cold(on the fridge side is actually freezing).  After I unplug is for about 2 hours and then plug the power back on, it seems to work fine so far after about 12 hours.

Now I am really worried that I am not sure when it will break again even thgouh I change the control housing does not seem to completely solve the problem.  I start to wonder may this be a loose wire on the evaporator fan or motor?  How can I get to the motor?  do I have to take out the back of the fridge to access it?  Does anyone see similiar problems or does it sounds like a loose wire issue?

thanks.

[hhu2000]

sorry, I meant the link to the parts provided by Pegi.

[appl.tech.29501]

Remove the back wall of the frezer to access the evap. fan. If you know the fan should be on then do the following test. Follow the 2 wires that provide power to the fan motor back to the connector plug in the freezer. read voltage on those 2 wires without unpulgging the connector, you should have 120 Volts. If you dont have 120, unplug the connector and read the same 2 pins on the plug thats in the wall, if you have a 120 Volts then you have a bad ADC.

[hhu2000]

thanks. I will try it out.

[AccApp]

If you have 120v to the motor and it still does not run but if you bench test it with  120v and a good neutral the def thermostat may have failed. They made a bunch of these where the evap fan's neutral ran through the def limit.