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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
Ry4an

kenmore "laundry center" 90802/90807 combination (top loading) won't spin/agitate

12 posts in this topic

The three year old, Kenmore, vertical washer/dryer combo "laundry center" that came with my place won't spin or agitate. I've removed the panels, and I can see the belt running from the motor to the pulley on the sealed transmission unit is intact and on track. When I spin the tub or agitator directly, I can see the belt turn and the motor innards spin, so the mechanical motor to transmission linkage seems okay.

Nothing in the area of the motor or the large capacitor near it smells of magic smoke (that stuff that lives in electronics which you can smell when it escapes and they stop working) or looks blackened. The wide electrical connector going to the motor is snapped on firmly. The evacuation pump runs just fine and when appropriate, so the entire washer timer doesn't seem hosed.

At this point should I be suspecting a burned out motor or electrical problems up in the washer timer? I've got the wiring diagram for the motor connector and washer timer connector; are there any component pairs I can be testing for open/closed/voltage in a feeble attempt to diagnose?

Thanks for any help,

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

If the transmission pulley is turning normally but nothing's happpening in the tub, that's usually a bad transmission. Won't know for sure without a full and valid model number.

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Sorry 'bout the model number. The only service label I can find is on the dryer "half" of my washer/dryer combo. It shows 417.90802991 as the model number.

I guess I wasn't clear before regarding the transmission linkage:

When operating under its own power neither the motor nor the agitator/basket spin.

When I hand crank the basket/agitator with the power off the motor spins.

Thus, it seems to me the transmission and drive belt are fine.

Thanks for your time,

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So, in other words, the motor doesn't run.  Does that about sum it up?

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Yup, motor doesn't run. My question is, is there any way I can test if the motor is the problem or the timer/electrical feeding the motor? Motor looks fine and so does the wiring running to it. Are their any terminals on the motor I can test for open/short/voltage to get a read on its health?

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[user=877]Ry4an[/user] wrote:

Yup, motor doesn't run. My question is, is there any way I can test if the motor is the problem or the timer/electrical feeding the motor?

Of course, techs do everyday using their multimeters and the wiring diagram to see if the motor is getting voltage or not.

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And I've got a well-worn-in Fluke meter and enough basic know-how to use it, but even with the wiring diagram I'm not able to figure out what readings would be meaningful on the motor terminals?

Should I just check for voltage across the three pairs running to the motor connector when the timing diagram indicates they should be live, or is there any meaningful reading I can take directly on the terminals of the disconnected motor?

Thanks,

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here's a dumb question,is the lid open or closed,the lid lock prevents motor from operating on these units,there's a possibility this is what has failed.

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The lid-lock switch seems fine. I can hear/see the drainage pump switch on/off when it's depressed.

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does the motor make a humming sound?

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No, the motor definitely neither spins nor humms/buzzes.

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i think you have probably narrowed it down to either a timer failure,or a motor electrical failure- you say there was no smoke- in this case thats good it means the windings did not burn up. there is a chance the capacitor has failed,but the motor should make a humming noise if it did.  checking the incoming power to the motor can be quite challenging on these as the timer actually switches the neutral(white)side of the line-meaning that all the other wires feeding the motor switch remain hot- this makes it difficult to determine exactly where the power is lost- if you can set the machine control in the spin segment,close the lid,and unplug the machine-you ought to be able to measure continuity between the L shaped prong on the power cord and the terminal on the motor which is fed by the timer(see diagram) if memory serves me,i think it is a white/black tracer wire. if you have no continuity,and you can not see any wires loose or disconnected in the timer/console area,you are probably safe in assuming your timer has failed-this is certainly not uncommon for these machines,but at the same time one should never assume all failures are the same.  this just makes an ASS out of U and ME.      :cool:

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