9 replies to this topic

[thirdwind]

My Whirpool bottom-mount refrigerator (Model GB222DKXG**2; approx 3 years old) has a warm refrigerator section (60 F) but the freezer is fine (5 F).  The air vents are not blocked, but could they be clogged somehow?  Any suggestions or solutions will be greatly appreciated.

[Pegi]

Check to see if the inside back wall of the freezer has ice or frost on the panel, this could indicate a defrost problem, which would block the airflow to the food compartment.  Also make sure the light in the food comp. is shutting off when the door is closed.  Something has the air flow blocked form the freezer if the light is going off, so could also have  an air flow damper not opening letting air into the top from the freezer into the top.

[thirdwind]

Thank you.  There was a thin coating of ice on the inside back.  I turned off the refrig overnight to melt the ice and turned it back on this morning.  It's been running today for 2 hours and already the inside temp is colder, so this seems to be the problem.  I'll monitor the temperature.  If it happens again, is there anything I can do myself to fix the defrosting problem?  For example, how would I know (or troubleshoot) the part to replace?

[Pegi]

Need you to recheck the model number as that does not seem to be valid...GB222 is a prefix for a Maytag ref......Repost after you check this............

[thirdwind]

Oops, too many 2s.  Should be GB22DKXG**2.  It's a Whirlpool  :)

 

[Pegi]

The defrost system consists of the defrost timer  ref. # 38, the bi-metal ref. # 14 and the defrost heater ref. # 10.  Any one or a combination of these can cause a defrost problem when they malfunction.  You will need to get your ref. cold, then advance the defrost timer located at the bottom of the freezer section, probably behind the toe panel, or at the back of the ref in the compressor compartment, into defrost, where the ref goes dead except for the light and see if your defrost heater does come on. If it does you know the heater and bi-metal are ok and you need to replace the defrost timer following the instructions in the package.  If the heater does not come on you know you need to replace the defrost heater and/or  the bi-metal, these can be checked with an ohom meter, but the bi-metal has to be cold to check it, will not show good when it is warmed up and will be open. 

[thirdwind]

Thanks.  That was really nice of you.  Is it normal for there to be a small amount of permanent frost on the back inside of where the coils are?  Freezer and refrig temperatures are fine but there has been a little frost for over 12 hours now.

[Pegi]

Yes, you will always have frost on the evaperator between defrost cycles when the ref is working properly.  It is when the defrost system goes out and this frost builds up thick on the evaperator that you have problems.  This timer would take the ref into defrost either every 8 hours or every 8 hours COMPRESSOR RUN TIME depending on how your unit was wired from the factory.  You can turn the timer clock wise till the box goes dead except for the light and see if the heater comes on.  If it does you know the heater and bi-metal are ok and your timer is not advancing and needed to be replaced.  If the heater does not come on either the heater is out or the bi-metal and would be a good idea to replace both

[thirdwind]

Thanks for all your help.   After determining the timer was working, I bypassed the bimetal and the heater began working.  So I replaced the bimetal and is everything is fine now. 

[Pegi]

;)