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Grimmspropeller

Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes

132 posts in this topic

You guys are awesome!

I just got done with the rear hub replace on my own. I was able to some how get the boot off before I took the tubs out......know its all back together except the boot....(I did not read the instructions you posted first)...bummer ...is there a way to conect the boot from the front?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Hello, my bumming friend. Fear not, for our esteemed, and sometimes reamed, leader, Samurai Appliance Repair Man, has posted a detailed procedure for replacing the boot in this thread.

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jms336, What model number was your Kenmore/Frigidaire?  I have 417.40042990 and when I called RepairClinic.com about the wash group assembly item # 1063854 - they said it didn't show up as being compatable with my machine.  Was the part that you recieved the whole assembly - the front outer tub, the inner tub with spider and shaft ( stainless drum) and the rear outer tub assembly with bearing and shaft seat - all ready to install?  For $212.05?  The individual parts alone add up to over $525 - and that's about what  the entire new machine is going for now.  My predicament is that the bearing/seal has ruined a load of whites (see attached photo) and I am drowning in piles of laundry - if that whole assembly will work at that price - I'll wait out the long order time.

post-4113-129045087816_thumb.jpg

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Shudder. I don't know the answer to your question, but if anyone has figured a way to get those stains out of clothing, please share it here!  (Are they grease, rust, burns, or something else, do you think?)

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Binki,  I think it is grease from the bearings.  That load of clothes is a write off.  Fortunately is wasn't a load of my kids clothing - that would have been expensive to replace on top of needing to repair the washer.  Did you end up fixing your machine (same model as I have) or did you buy another machine? 

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Sadly, neither. Ran out of money, so until more comes along we're dragging our laundry to the laundromat and drying it at home. I hope to do this repair someday.

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I have a Kenmore 417.43042200 washer. I have the same problem I've been reading about over and over here and at other appliance forums - the sudden banging indicating bad bearings. This washer is not even 3 years old! I spent 3 hours last night taking the whole thing apart to check out the drum and bearings before ordering any parts and found the "spider" assembly is cracked also (2 of the 3 arms). I wasn't too upset before I found this since I figured I'd get the rear drum with bearing from repairclinic.com for a little over $100. But now it would be over $200 more for the SS drum assembly!

I then found this thread and am tempted to order the tub assy mentioned here from repairclinic.

My question is, does anyone know for sure if this will fit my washer? There's no picture on repairclinic's site, but it sounds like the right part from the description in this thread. Does anyone have any input?

Also, what's the deal with the Kenmore part numbers? Are all the 417.xxxxx washers basically the same? What would be the main differences between all these different 417 models? Do you think the tub assy would be basically the same?

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Hello, my questioning friend. If you order the part from our sagacious host's parts link and the bearings do not fit, then you can return them for a refund, as stated at the bottom of each and every page in this Pillar of Ideas, the Colossus of Higher Discourse, this repair forum.

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Thanks for the quick reply, Moostafa! I'm not just replacing the bearings though, I am considering buying the whole drum assembly unit mentioned by Kdog earlier in this thread. HJV later mentioned that repairclinic rep said it didn't show up as being compatable with his machine. That's why I wondered about all the different 417.xxx model numbers and what the difference between them is. I'm hoping if this assembly fits any 417 model, it would fit them all. I wonder if HJV ever ended up ordering this for his machine. You out there HJV??

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Won't fit any 417.xxxxxx machine, the 417 source indicates machine was made by Electrolux/Frigidaire.

They make other machines besides the frontloader.

The complete kit should fit all the newer frontloaders made by Electrolux. It may not work on some of the older models as I believe they used a different motor and pulley set.

Should be no problem for replacing in your 3-4 year old machine.

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Thanks for the reply, Willie. I bit the bullet and went ahead and ordered it from repairclinic. I wanted to try and find a repair place that would order the SS tub under the warrenty, and/or go to sears and haggle with them about it but I thought it unlikely I'd have much luck. And I wouldn't have time to do that until at least Monday, then if I got nowhere I'd be ordering it next week and with Thanksgiving coming up it would be a pain, not to mention the dirty clothes are piling up already, etc, etc. So $225 later, I'm crossing my fingers it gets here soon and works with no problem. I did find it cheaper at a couple other sites, but it was out of stock. Repairclinic seems to have a good reputation and return policy, so I went with them (and used the link here to help the site a little).

Thanks again for the help and I will update when I get the job done.

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I had the same exact problem with my Kenmore front load washer and when the Sears repairman came and old me it would cost about $500 to fix I told him no way.  Mine was just 3 years old when the banging started.  Sears gave me a brand new washer.  And I didn't have to yell to get it either.  I told the repairman that there was no way that I caused the damage and that I know this washing machine has a history of problems.  (After I bought it, my sister-in-law told me she was having problems with hers leaking.  ) 

Since this is a newer model I'm crossing my fingers.  Have it nearly 2 years now.  I really love this washing machine and would hate to go back to the old topload agitator.

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Well, I hoped to be posting with good news. The unit fit and went in without any major trouble, but is shaking and vibrating way too much during final spin. The motor sounds like it's struggling too, like slowing down or stalling a little for a second during final spin. The wheel on the back of the tub seemed to have a little wobble to it so I swapped with my old one, but there was no change. I'm almost thinking maybe one of the shocks on the bottom broke (I looked and don't see anything wrong with them). I don't know what else it would be. I don't really want to have to take the whole thing out again and take it apart to check the spider on the back of the tub. I can't imagine it'd broke already! It spins freely by hand.

Even the drain pump seems a little louder and shaky than before. I was real careful with everything. I don't know why just taking them out and puttin gthem back would hurt much.

Not sure what to do now. Have $200+ invested so far.

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Double check the large pulley on the back of the drum, make sure it's on nice n' tight. Also make sure both shocks are securely bolted in place.

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OK, latest update. I pulled the machine out into the family room. I checked the shocks as well as I could without taking the tub off and they seem fine but can't be 100% sure.

I found one of the bolts holding the front weight on had come off. I was hoping this was the problem but I doubt it as the weight itself didn't seem to be out of place at all. For a second I thought the rear weight was on backwards, but it look like it can only go one way and have the bolts fit.

I took the pulley off again. It was real tight to begin with, but there's a very slight lateral movment on the drum itself. I can't quite get the pulley on the tub post far enough to keep the tub tight enough back so there's no movement. Do you think that would matter? It's probably only about 1/16" or so of movement of the tub/pully once the pulley is on as far as I can get it.

I don't want to take the tub out again if I don't have to (obviously) but am debating as I can't think of anything to check anyhow. The SS tub seems to ride freely on the bearings. Not sure what else to do short of taking it all apart again.

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Well, I got the pulley on as tight as I can, but there is still a little play on the whole drum/pully assy. I closed it back up and ran it. It's still a bit too shaky during the fnial spin, even on "Normal" speed. It's nothing like it was when the spider on the old drum broke, but it's much louder and shakier than it was before the break.

The only thing I can think of is that there's somthing wrong with this new kit. Specifically, maybe the post the pulley attaches to is very slightly bent. I would imagine that could cause these symptons (fine during tumbles, shaky at high spin). I don't know how to check for this, though. Also, will aplliance clinic take it back and send me a new one if there's no glaring defect?

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Any other suggestions, samurai? I'm thinking I'm going to have to send the assy back to repairclinc and order another. I don't know if I should just do it as a seperate return and new order or if I should call and explain it. I don't know for certain this one's defective but I might as well try another one. If it is defective, they would cover the shipping too, I assume. The box it came it was a little beat up, that could be a sign of it having gotten knocked around a bit too.

Also, it's a bit of a beast to ship. I wonder if I could ship it back to the them via DHL when they drop off the new one.

This sucks, I really don't want to pull this sucker out and put another in.

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Hey man, sorry to hear about the trouble and I know how frustrating it can be, especially when you're this close to victory. Returning the part is not problem, RepairClinic has the most generous return policy anywhere. The real problem that still remains, however, is determining with certainty the true source of the vibration. My opinion is that it's unlikely that the pulley assembly could have gotten bent in shipping just enough to throw the machine out of whack. For it to affect the balance, it would have to be visibly bent. This is a belt-drive machine-- the belt itself can, and does, absorb minor imbalances from the tub.

I think you were on the right track with the cement weights. In fact, I recall a while back that our washer (same as yours) started making this freaky vibrating noise during spin. Turns out that a couple of the bolts for the counter weights (the right hand one) had worked themselves loose. Re-tightened all and good to go. Focus on that area.

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Thanks for the reply. Just to clarify, although the pully seems very slightly bent (wobbles a little if set flat on the floor), my concern was more that the post the pulley bolts onto could be bent. The other concern was the slight movement (front to back) of the pully/drum assy once the pully is attached.

I will look into the weights further before sending this back. Could you explain what you mean by "the right hand" weight? There is the one that goes above the pully on the back and the large black covered one that goes all the way around the front. Do you know of any way these can be put on in an incorrect position that might cause it to be off balance?

I will probably not get to work on this anymore until Sunday. If you think of anything else by then, please pass it on!

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[user=4540]amstel[/user] wrote:

Could you explain what you mean by "the right hand" weight?

Just behind the front panel are two sets of weights, a pair on the right-hand side and another pair on the left-hand side. Is easy, da?

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I've got a 417.42042100 that appears to have a similar problem.

Out of the blue about a week ago there was a loud banging noise during the final spin. I unloaded the clothes and checked out how it did while empty... same thing. (Not as loud, but still there.) We quit using it till I could check it out...

I pulled the front and back panels off and put it into that full spin, so I could see what may/may not be going on... nothing obviously out of whack or banging against anything else. No leaks. (Yeah, I hooked the water back up to it too.)

I shut it off, unplugged, and started wiggling things that needed wiggling... like that big pulley on the back. At first it was fine. But then it loosened up a bit and there was a bit of front to back play in it, which would suggest the bearing everyone is talking about here. It is front to back play only, no side to side. There is no gunk leakage around where the bearing would be (like some of you are talking about), and nothing has gotten on any clothes yet.

So it sounds like that bearing is maybe just starting to go bad, eh?

I seem to have 3 options here...

1. Replace the bearing myself for $40

2. Replace the rear outer tub assembly myself for about $150 (priced at repairclinic.com)

3. Have Sears come out and do anything that needs doing for about $190

The prospect of pulling it all apart, knocking a stubborn bearing out, and replacing it for about $40 doesn't bug me at all. Sounds fun to me, even. I'm just concerned about some of the other potential problems mentioned... broken spiders, rusted shaft, etc. Could I expect any of that stuff, having caught the problem fairly early as best I can tell? Heck, I don't even know what this spider thing is, though I have some guesses. :P

Between 2 and 3... for amount of work it takes to pull this off, I'd just as soon go with 3.

So I'm debating between 1 and 3.

For those thinking my description of 3 sounds nuts, when I called them up asking questions and saying I was pretty sure I needed a semi-major repair job they gave me the option of an "all parts/labor/up to complete replacement" 1 yr extended warranty for $190. And that it would cover a repair visit this week.

I'd just as soon spend $40 and tinker a bit than $190, but if I'm gonna find other major problems inside the outer tub that I can't see without pulling it apart... maybe better to go for $190?

With all that in mind, anyone have any reccomendations between those options?

Thanks! :cool:

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If you're confident Sear will fix it for $190, I'd go with that. I've spent $200+ already but still have a problem (see previous posts).

One thing I'd like to know is how much play do you have back and forth when you push/pull the pulley? Also, from anyone who has a similar model which is working fine, is there any play on your tub/pulley assembly? You could check this without taking off any covers by reaching inside your tub and, holding the 2 of those ridge things that protrude in the tub to knock the clothes around, and see if the whole tub can move front to back at all. It would be a big help to me to know if this is "normal" so I don't concentrate on that issue while troubleshooting.

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Without rechecking or measuring, I'd say the play is about 1/8 inch or so. Just enough to enable me to push it in and and out and get a light "clunk" noise at each stop.

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1/8" or so is about the same play that I have, so maybe that's normal. Would still like to hear from someone who has a perfectly running machine to see if they confirm thiers is the same.

I think I made some progress with mine. As suggested by the Samurai, I rechecked the weights. I loosened all the bolts and pushed the weights in as far as they'd go, and I did find the part near the front top was not seated completely. I had to push it in about 1/4-1/2". Retightned all the bolts and let it run. I did 3 loads with it so far. The 1st was a small load on normal spin, that seemed much, much smoother. Then I tried a med size load, then a big load of jeans, both on fast spin. During the final spin of the larger load, it was still a little louder than I thought it should be, but there really wasn't much shaking of the body of the machine. I still had the top cover off, so maybe that's why it seems louder.

I'll run it a few more times before deciding for sure if this repair can officially be called "complete". I will update again then.

Thanks again for all the help!

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You probably have a slight bit more re-seating to do on those balance weights to get all the ripples out. Play with that some more, you'll get it.

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