Kenmore Front Load Washer Woes
Posted 30 November 2005 - 10:02 AM
The only thing I can think of is that there's somthing wrong with this new kit. Specifically, maybe the post the pulley attaches to is very slightly bent. I would imagine that could cause these symptons (fine during tumbles, shaky at high spin). I don't know how to check for this, though. Also, will aplliance clinic take it back and send me a new one if there's no glaring defect?
Posted 30 November 2005 - 11:16 PM
Also, it's a bit of a beast to ship. I wonder if I could ship it back to the them via DHL when they drop off the new one.
This sucks, I really don't want to pull this sucker out and put another in.
Posted 01 December 2005 - 11:20 AM
I think you were on the right track with the cement weights. In fact, I recall a while back that our washer (same as yours) started making this freaky vibrating noise during spin. Turns out that a couple of the bolts for the counter weights (the right hand one) had worked themselves loose. Re-tightened all and good to go. Focus on that area.
Posted 01 December 2005 - 11:39 AM
I will look into the weights further before sending this back. Could you explain what you mean by "the right hand" weight? There is the one that goes above the pully on the back and the large black covered one that goes all the way around the front. Do you know of any way these can be put on in an incorrect position that might cause it to be off balance?
I will probably not get to work on this anymore until Sunday. If you think of anything else by then, please pass it on!
Posted 02 December 2005 - 12:07 PM
Just behind the front panel are two sets of weights, a pair on the right-hand side and another pair on the left-hand side. Is easy, da?
Could you explain what you mean by "the right hand" weight?
Posted 03 December 2005 - 11:06 AM
Out of the blue about a week ago there was a loud banging noise during the final spin. I unloaded the clothes and checked out how it did while empty... same thing. (Not as loud, but still there.) We quit using it till I could check it out...
I pulled the front and back panels off and put it into that full spin, so I could see what may/may not be going on... nothing obviously out of whack or banging against anything else. No leaks. (Yeah, I hooked the water back up to it too.)
I shut it off, unplugged, and started wiggling things that needed wiggling... like that big pulley on the back. At first it was fine. But then it loosened up a bit and there was a bit of front to back play in it, which would suggest the bearing everyone is talking about here. It is front to back play only, no side to side. There is no gunk leakage around where the bearing would be (like some of you are talking about), and nothing has gotten on any clothes yet.
So it sounds like that bearing is maybe just starting to go bad, eh?
I seem to have 3 options here...
1. Replace the bearing myself for $40
2. Replace the rear outer tub assembly myself for about $150 (priced at repairclinic.com)
3. Have Sears come out and do anything that needs doing for about $190
The prospect of pulling it all apart, knocking a stubborn bearing out, and replacing it for about $40 doesn't bug me at all. Sounds fun to me, even. I'm just concerned about some of the other potential problems mentioned... broken spiders, rusted shaft, etc. Could I expect any of that stuff, having caught the problem fairly early as best I can tell? Heck, I don't even know what this spider thing is, though I have some guesses.
Between 2 and 3... for amount of work it takes to pull this off, I'd just as soon go with 3.
So I'm debating between 1 and 3.
For those thinking my description of 3 sounds nuts, when I called them up asking questions and saying I was pretty sure I needed a semi-major repair job they gave me the option of an "all parts/labor/up to complete replacement" 1 yr extended warranty for $190. And that it would cover a repair visit this week.
I'd just as soon spend $40 and tinker a bit than $190, but if I'm gonna find other major problems inside the outer tub that I can't see without pulling it apart... maybe better to go for $190?
With all that in mind, anyone have any reccomendations between those options?
Posted 03 December 2005 - 01:14 PM
One thing I'd like to know is how much play do you have back and forth when you push/pull the pulley? Also, from anyone who has a similar model which is working fine, is there any play on your tub/pulley assembly? You could check this without taking off any covers by reaching inside your tub and, holding the 2 of those ridge things that protrude in the tub to knock the clothes around, and see if the whole tub can move front to back at all. It would be a big help to me to know if this is "normal" so I don't concentrate on that issue while troubleshooting.
Posted 04 December 2005 - 09:46 PM
Posted 05 December 2005 - 05:14 AM
I think I made some progress with mine. As suggested by the Samurai, I rechecked the weights. I loosened all the bolts and pushed the weights in as far as they'd go, and I did find the part near the front top was not seated completely. I had to push it in about 1/4-1/2". Retightned all the bolts and let it run. I did 3 loads with it so far. The 1st was a small load on normal spin, that seemed much, much smoother. Then I tried a med size load, then a big load of jeans, both on fast spin. During the final spin of the larger load, it was still a little louder than I thought it should be, but there really wasn't much shaking of the body of the machine. I still had the top cover off, so maybe that's why it seems louder.
I'll run it a few more times before deciding for sure if this repair can officially be called "complete". I will update again then.
Thanks again for all the help!
Posted 27 December 2005 - 12:32 PM
Posted 29 December 2005 - 08:23 AM
Posted 29 December 2005 - 02:24 PM
Posted 29 December 2005 - 03:18 PM
Posted 30 December 2005 - 12:04 AM
With good bearings your belt will stay in the correct position with no problems.
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
Posted 30 December 2005 - 04:32 AM
Any thoughts on how to get the new rear shell/bearing onto the shaft of the old inner basket? It doesn't slide on easily. The shaft isn't completely smooth - it's slightly rough and feels very slightly scored from the old bearings. Is the shaft still OK? Can I (should I) force the new shell/bearing onto the shaft?
Posted 30 December 2005 - 02:06 PM
This was a big job - it took me (with help from my dad) about 6 hours to disassemble the machine and reassemble with the new shell/casing, but it's so nice to see a spin cycle without hearing that deafening roar.
I personally think that this design is flawed, given that so many people have written on many internet sites about bearing problems. My machine was only four years old when the bearings went out. Unfortunately I have TWO of these machines, since I bought the same model for my vacation home. That's why I decided to put the time into understanding how it works and being able to fix it. Hopefully my other machine won't have bearing problems anytime soon.
Well, my husband is amazed that I attempted this, and even more surprised that I succeeded. Thanks so much to all of you for writing about your past experiences with repairing this machine. It was valuable information. And some advice for others:
- these resources were invaluable: a laptop that I kept nearby with a blowup diagram of the inner tub that I referred to at least a hundred times, found at http://www3.sears.com/ (enter your washing machine model number and choose the view diagram option), and step-by-step instructions that I printed out and which guided me through the whole process http://www.zenzoidma...arBearingV6.pdf
- put all your screws/fastener groups into individual baggies and label them. That saved me lots of time when reassembling things.
- label both sides of connection points that aren't intuitive - the small diameter hose that attaches to the water level gauge is a good case in point - I'm so glad I labeled both sides when I disconnected the tube from the red plastic thing hanging off the top of the washing machine - I think I'd still be looking for where that connected to. Most connections, though, are pretty intuitive.
- If the inner basket won't come out of the shell because the bearings are shot, DON'T pound too hard on the shaft (unless you have calipers, a metal file, emery cloth and a lot of time to do repair work). Use Liquid Wrench, douse it, and let it sit for awhile. After an hour, I was able to remove the old basket with much less force. I used a 1-inch dowel (about 5" long) to punch out the shaft from the old casing.
Good luck and many happy repairs!
Posted 01 January 2006 - 08:35 PM
Posted 01 January 2006 - 11:49 PM
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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