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Microwave Trouble


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10 replies to this topic

#1 jgeorg

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Posted 23 May 2005 - 11:49 AM

My in-laws have a Goldstar Model 1341 T 900 watt microwave. It has a surface light that has a high and low setting. The lights wouldn't come on. Hence they replaced bulbs with 2 new ones. However, the new ones will not light up either. I have checked the continuity of the new ones and they are fine. I'm not sure if the ones replaced were actually burnt. (I'll take my father-in-laws word.) What else could it be? 

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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 23 May 2005 - 03:35 PM

Is the light on/off switch one of the buttons on the touchpad?  If so, you have to replace the control board to get the lights back.  If you wanna save $200, use a flashlight.

#3 jgeorg

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Posted 23 May 2005 - 05:12 PM

The light switch is a button on the keypad, as you described. Any way of  getting a  second hand control board?

#4 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 04:05 PM

In a word:  Ebay.

#5 jgeorg

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 02:47 PM

My father-in-law called to get a price on the control board. The repair man said that as long as the keypad beeps, the cause isn't the board. The funny thing is  I can get a reading of 125V from the sockets but no lights. The bulbs are from an appliance store and fall within the specs of the maker. I have no problem changing the board if it corrects the problem but I don't want to  be a parts changing monkey.

#6 exsearsguy

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 05:44 PM

Jgeorg,if you are getting voltage to the socket, try pulling the tab that contacts the base of the bulb. Sometimes the tab gets pushed to far in to make good contact. Of course you know to unplug the microwave if you try this.

#7 jgeorg

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 06:45 PM

We did that exsearsguy. but nothing happened. :huh:

#8 exsearsguy

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:51 AM

Jgeorg,I didn't really think that was it but it's cheap and easy.Is there any way to check for voltage under load? Without a lot of work,cause Samurai's suggestion of a flashlight is sounding VERY cost effective at this point.

#9 jgeorg

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 07:27 PM

Can you advise  how I might test underload?


#10 exsearsguy

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 09:11 PM

Jgeorg,I hope you haven't given up on me. To test under load is just what it sounds like.Checking for  voltage when the light should be on. You will probably have to pull the cover off and put the meter leads ( I know you have one) on the terminals of the receptacle and turn the light on.BE CAREFUL,THIS IS LIVE. If you have voltage,then you have a bad bulb.

#11 jgeorg

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 10:55 AM

[user=437]exsearsguy[/user] wrote:

Jgeorg,I hope you haven't given up on me. To test under load is just what it sounds like.Checking for  voltage when the light should be on. You will probably have to pull the cover off and put the meter leads ( I know you have one) on the terminals of the receptacle and turn the light on.BE CAREFUL,THIS IS LIVE. If you have voltage,then you have a bad bulb.

 

I'm not a quitter for the most part. I got a correct reading through the sockets. My father-in-law tested each bulb and they are fine.  So we figure its either the sockets no touching the bulbs. Now earlier on there was mention it could be the control board. My question is does the board control the grounding of the light circuit when turned on - excuse my layman talk.  The upshot is that my in-law has learned to live without a light. Can we talk about Craftsman lawn mower parts since I've recently acquired a power reel mower (sorry Master but I had to ask  given  his screen name)

 





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