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Dryer heats, tumbles, and "almost" shuts off but keeps running


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#1 drot0729

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 11:30 AM

Hi people, any help would be appreciated. The other day we left the house in the am and turned the dryer on before we left. We set it to 70 minutes as usual, but when I got home for lunch around 1:30pm it was still running. It was right near turning off as usual but kept on running. This is now repeating itself everytime we will use it.

Does this sound like the timer is bad since it is running the cycle but sticking right before it is supposed to turn off?

 I only have used it a couple of times since the other day it first was seen and all times were full drying cycle, 70 minutes. Should I try 60 minutes and see if it shuts off or that is a waste of time and this problem sounds like a clear cut issue someone can answer for me?

Thanks in advance,

Dan


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 11:35 AM

That model number does not come up, please recheck and repost, being sure to get the 3 numbers before the model number also.  thanks...
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#3 drot0729

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 11:39 AM

Thanks for the quick response.

There was a type # that said 180-00

I believe(which I didn't write down) there was a 110 number seperately as well. Then there was the Model #66712694 and right next to it 66712 again.

Does this help?

Dan


#4 Pegi

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 11:54 AM

hummmm  thanks   110.66712694 did come up, that 110 means this is a Whirlpool dryer as sears makes nothing.  Wanted to see if this had a thermister but nope, this is just a plain dryer.  I cannot think of anything except the timer stops feeding power to the timer motor at that point but that would sure be odd.  Let us wait to see of some one else can come up with some other suggestions before doing anything else at this point.  Pegi
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#5 drot0729

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 12:03 PM

In the meantime, I will recheck all the numbers right inside the dryer door again later and make sure that it is 110. I did put in that number 110.66712694 at the bottom Easy Appliance Parts lookup form and also saw they note that all Kenmore 110 or 665 as a prefix on their web page for model number help.

I am positive that it said Kenmore 70 series along the top part of the dryer and I own a Kenmore 80 series washer as well. Does it help to know that it is 220 as well?


#6 Pegi

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Posted 24 May 2005 - 12:07 PM

Yes, the electric  dryer is 220 volts and the 60, 70, 80, 90, series just means how fancy the line is, it tells nothing about the dryer like the model number does.  110 means W/P laundry, 665 would be whirlpool dishwasher, etc.  That tells us who made each appliance for sears since they buy all products from other manufacturers, and your corrected model number appears to be correct.  That 5 digit number is just a stock number.
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#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 04:08 AM

[user=914]drot0729[/user] wrote:

Hi people, any help would be appreciated. The other day we left the house in the am and turned the dryer on before we left. We set it to 70 minutes as usual, but when I got home for lunch around 1:30pm it was still running.

This is a great way to burn down your house.  You should never let a washer or dryer run unattended:  washers because of flood risk, dryers because of fire risk.  You got lucky this time.  But here's what you're risking:

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#8 drot0729

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 05:29 AM

Thanks for informing me on the caution I should take going foward, and to be more clear, I do not do this "all the time" just some times and always make sure the lint trap is clear, etc.

I also haven't done it since the first time I saw this problem the other day. With this said, do you have any input on the actual problem that I am seeing? Why my timer will work right up until it is supposed to go off and doesn't actually click off/turn off and keeps running?

Thanks,

Dan 


#9 Pegi

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 06:39 AM

Dan, the only thing I can come up with is the timer is not feeding the timer motor when at the end of the cycle.  If you can access the timer in the console, see what color the timer motor wires are?  If black the timer motor is 115 volt and if brown the timer motor is 220 volts. The timer motor is the round silver part on top of the plastic timer body.  Might also want to see if you can see any wires touching while in there on all of the controls in there.  We had a W/P dryer do something simular to this because the wires were touching that go to the heat selecter switch, touching the resister on the switch.  Moved them away from each other and problem solved.
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#10 drot0729

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 07:14 AM

Pegi thanks for all the help so far. You theory does sound logical to me. I am pretty handy with certain things but have never messed with a dryer. :)

2 questions:

1. If the wires are not touching as per your one statement, do you think I should go ahead and replace the timer?

2. Do you know if I get at the timer by taking the back off the dryer or if there is some instructions on how to get at this baby?

Thanks,

Dan


#11 Pegi

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 07:34 AM

Sears site is having problems right now, cannot pull up the breakdown, but the timer is in the console, see if it comes forward from the front or of the console has a removable back panel.
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#12 drot0729

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 10:33 AM

Pegi,

Took  a peak at the dryer on lunch and the console looks to have about 4 little hex washer screws that would show me the back of the timer and other console functions.

There was also two black sorta curved metal fasteners/clips hooked into the back of the top console. My guess is if you want to totally lift/take off the top console you would loosen them up.

I guess I would take a peek at the back of the timer and see if the wires are touching there, right?

 

 

 


#13 Pegi

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 12:06 PM

Just a regular dryer, probably 6 screws remove the back panel and there are the goodies..timer ref # 3..

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#14 drot0729

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 12:30 PM

Excellent. I found that diagram not to long ago myself off of the Sears website after you mentioned it.

I guess I will check out the wires and if all the wires seem intact and not touching, I will order up the whole timer, correct?

Believe me when I say this, I appreciate all your help as it is, and if I go and replace the timer and it is not the problem, I am not going to come on here ranting at you. haha :)

I just want an educated guess if that there is a very good chance that replacing the timer as a whole will solve this problem.

Thanks,

Dan


#15 Pegi

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 12:44 PM

Glad you will not come and get me!!!!  :shock:    However if you buy the timer here he will let you return it for a refund if it does not solve the problem.   Won't you Mr. Samurai????  Won't you????    :drowning:
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#16 drot0729

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 12:47 PM

HAHAHA...I didn't even know I could get it from here. I will check it out tonight most likely and then order one up from Mr Samurai. :D


#17 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 12:48 PM

[user=533]Pegi[/user] wrote:

  However if you buy the timer here he will let you return it for a refund if it does not solve the problem.   Won't you Mr. Samurai????

That has always been the deal.


#18 drot0729

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 04:30 AM

Alright. I just put my order in for the timer. I will definitely provide an update and thanks for your help again, Pegi.

Dan


#19 Pegi

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 06:00 AM

You are welcome, I hope.....gulp......:shock:
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#20 drot0729

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 06:15 AM

Pegi,

Well, I received the new timer and installed it last night. The problem here is, the dryer was running and was getting hot like before, but it seemed like this one hardly even moved, nevermind shutoff for me. It seemed like when I turned the dial that it made different clicking noises than my original. For example: Right near where I would manually turn to shut it off, it would click right before the "off" line and then click again right over the off.

I reinstalled my other timer and the time was moving like before but of course not shutting off.

I do have to return this timer. In your opinion, should i swap it out for different one and see if I just got a defective piece or do you think I should get someone to come in and take a look?

Dan





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