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Dryer heats, tumbles, and "almost" shuts off but keeps running


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80 replies to this topic

#21 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 08:29 AM

They all click twice just before the off , is the timer shutting off power to the heat circut for the cool down cycle, they all have this.  10 minutes for PP and 5 minutes for regular.  The second click is the timer cutting the power to the drive motor.  You are going to see if the new timer advances in timed dry, if it does, and it does not advance in automatic, there is something wrong with the heat circuit in the dryer.  Make sure the new timer is not advancing on timed dry and shutting off by itself.   Also the timer will not advance at all for the first 15 minutes or so in the automatic cycle, only after the clothes start drying and cycling the heat off.  When the heat is off is the only time the timer will advance.  The dryer the clothes get the faster it starts to advance.  So this not moving very fast at all at the beginning of the cycle is normal.  Try it again and give it more time to work.

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#22 drot0729

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 09:57 AM

They all click twice just before the off , is the timer shutting off power to the heat circut for the cool down cycle, they all have this.  10 minutes for PP and 5 minutes for regular.  The second click is the timer cutting the power to the drive motor.  You are going to see if the new timer advances in timed dry, if it does, and it does not advance in automatic, there is something wrong with the heat circuit in the dryer.  Make sure the new timer is not advancing on timed dry and shutting off by itself.   Also the timer will not advance at all for the first 15 minutes or so in the automatic cycle, only after the clothes start drying and cycling the heat off.  When the heat is off is the only time the timer will advance.  The dryer the clothes get the faster it starts to advance.  So this not moving very fast at all at the beginning of the cycle is normal.  Try it again and give it more time to work

_________________________________________________________________________

I can't thank you enough for the time you are taking with me. So thanks again. :)

Now to see if I understand correctly. First off, there is only timed modes on my dryer. There is 70 minutes, Air dry for 30 and something else. Then there is a selection for delicate, permanent press and cotton or something to them effects. The wife and I usually just use the 70 minute timed mode and select the type (cotton or whatever) on the types of clothes we dry.

So my 2 questions would be:

1. When you say automatic cycle, this does not pertain to me, right?

2.  If not, when I am using the 70 minute cycle, I should see the timer move faster than 15 minutes, right? The wierd thing is, and like I stated before, my old timer seems to move with no problem until it gets to the second click I would assume by your explanation. Maybe I was losing my mind last night but I don't think I saw the newer timer move at all. If that is what is happening, then you are saying it is the heat circuit?

Dan 


#23 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 10:19 AM

My error, reading too many threads.  No if you only have timed dry and no automatic cycle everything I have told you is out the window.   Your timer will advance no matter if your heat circuit is working or not. It either advances or it doesn't.  The new timer does not advance at all???  Are the wires to the timer motor plugged onto the timer body??  If so sounds like you received a defective timer.  What color are the timer motor wires, black or brown??  As assuming this is an electric dryer.

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#24 Mad Mac

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 10:29 AM

This may be one which has a separate two-pin connector to the timer motor, are you plugged in ok?

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#25 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 10:32 AM

Error...

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#26 drot0729

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 11:15 AM

My error, reading too many threads.  No if you only have timed dry and no automatic cycle everything I have told you is out the window.   Your timer will advance no matter if your heat circuit is working or not. It either advances or it doesn't.  The new timer does not advance at all???  Are the wires to the timer motor plugged onto the timer body??  If so sounds like you received a defective timer.  What color are the timer motor wires, black or brown??  As assuming this is an electric dryer.
__________________________________________________________________________

Pegi and Mad Mac,

That is definitely the timer I received and was the correct part to the original one. Being that I have a tanning salon and have worked with electric connections quite alot there, replace contactors, ballasts and such, I know to replace one wire at a time carefully. So, I know all the wires were connected correctly and as tight as possible.

Pegi, To first answer the new timer not moving at all, I believe the answer is yes unless I was losing my mind. I set it right near where it would shut off in a few minutes and it didn't. I set it to 10 minutes and it didn't move as well.

 Also, on the left hand side there is a thicker black wire coming into the timer and there is a red(which is probably a constant??) that plugs onto a leg right underneath it.  If you look at the timer pic, you will see a blue jumper wire that connects to bloth side of the timer and there is also two skinnier black wires off of a plastic clip plugged into the timer going to each side of the timer. If there is any other info you that goes into the timer I would have to write it all down later and post it. 

Dan


#27 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 11:35 AM

As far as my knowledge the timer motor gets its power from the timer for timed dry cycle, which appears all this dryer has.  Either the timer motor is bad or the timer is not feeding the motor or I do not have any idea what I am talking about and need to sell my business and flip burgers somewhere....:(

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#28 Mad Mac

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 11:49 AM

"Welcome to Pegi In The Box, can I take your order?":dude:
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#29 drot0729

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 11:49 AM

LOL!! :D

I don't think you should close up shop. It is hard enough to sometimes troubleshoot things that are right in front of you, nevermind over an internet site.

So now that I know that the timer motor is the piece connected to the back of the timer itself, I am more familiar of what questions you are asking about the wires.

I would think if the timer motor was bad on my original, that the whole timer wouldn't even move at all? We know it does of course since I have mentioned it a couple of times already. Or do you think that one leg of the timer to the timer motor could cause it to run but not shut off correctly?

I think I will give the newer timer I purchased one more shot and if it doesn't move at all, get a replacement sent to me and try that one and hopefully that one will work. If not, I will make my mind up on what to do next.

Dan


#30 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 11:55 AM

:silly:  Thank you for your order, shall I Super Size that for you???

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#31 Mad Mac

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 12:06 PM

"I'll have an Even Heat Board combo supersized with an extra side of couplers"
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#32 Mad Mac

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 12:11 PM

Moving right along....this is apparently a very basic dryer you have. Either the timer runs or it doesn't. Is there any way you can post a wiring diagram?
Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#33 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 12:18 PM

Not to say one might wire a timer wrong, and the wires and terminals are both marked, however mistakes can be made???  Recheck your wires on the new timer to make sure they are correct?

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#34 drot0729

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 12:35 PM

I would love to say that the timer doesn't move at all now but that is definitely not the case. It definitely runs, heats up, drys the clothes but doesn not shut off by itself, only when I open the door or turn it manually.

With that said again, iIt definitely does seem like a simple dryer. I will go home later and re install the new timer that was sent to me.

One other thing I noticed when I installed the newer timer it was making a humming/vibration sound when I set the time. Once I started the dryer it went away. I turned it off, set the time and it still had it. I then pushed on the timer knob in front real good and it went away. I wonder if this sound was just a vibration of something internal from the outset.

I am going to reinstall again. I will make sure the wires are all tight, the clip is secure. I will run the dryer again and see if it moves. If it doesn't I would have to say I got a defective part because the other timer does move. I will let you guys know.

Dan


#35 drot0729

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 12:37 PM

Mad Mac,

If the same problem persists, and the timer doesn't work, I can scan the wiring diagram that was in the top console and post it here.

Thanks,

Dan


#36 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 01:05 PM

Will you please see if your heating element is grounded inside of the canister??  Something sounds fishie here, the humming and the will not shut off until the door is opened or the timer shut off.  You should be able to hear the timer humming/ticking when it is turned on, this is normal but not to excess.  You might have gotten a bad timer also.

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#37 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 01:52 AM

Diffenitely post the wiring diagram. Your unit uses a resistor somewhere in the circuit, see part 279872:ref#37 in the picture of your consule on prior page of post. I have never ran into this problem but have read where Samurai mentioned the resistor being a problem similar to what your having in the old forum, (I could be mistaken, but that's what comes to mind).

Samurai, want to give your input on this???? Possible bad resistor causing the problem?

Find the part that looks like this: CLICK HERE Called "Power resistor kit for dryer timer"

See if the wiring diagram shows what the resistance is suppose to be and use your meter and see if your resistor is ok or not.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#38 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:14 AM

Posted Image

This is probably no help but due to Verizon's snail like servers for email, I had to shrink the image greatly...I have a copy in front of me to give values of resistors.


#39 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:34 AM

Here is some info on the very "helpful" diagram I just posted. :P

There is two diagrams...1 for electrical wiring and 1 for gas. The electrical wiring is the top one. Sorry about this crap ahead of time maybe I can get a more clear pic up at lunch. But I will try to make the diagram out for you guys.

Along the bottom from left to right says Timer Switch 2, there is a red wire going to it...going to the right is a Thermal cutoff Not resettable 325 degrees...next is red/white wire in between the thermal cutoff mentioned and then an Operating Thermostat 150 degrees or 155 degrees F...next there is a Hi Limit Thermostat in the line that states 250 degrees F...last in line along the bottom is a resistor that says 5400W Heater 7.8 to 11.8 ohms. Right above the 5400W Heater, that is in line with it, is an Orange wire with a resistor inline  (5000 ohms Ref) that goes to Timer Switch 0. Last for now, right after the Timer Switch 0, there is the Timer Motor that says 1800-2900 ohms.

Sorry for the long winded message once again. I realize now, at the bottom of the picture I posted, there is to the far left a picture of a Pluggable Drive Motor Switch. This wouldn't have anything to do with what I am seeing, correct? 


#40 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:51 AM



[align=left]POWER RESISTOR ELIMINATION[/align]


[align=left]Electric dryers with the Auto Dry Termination feature used[/align]

[align=left]an in-line power resistor to reduce voltage to the timer[/align]

[align=left]motor, to advance the timer when heat was cycled off in[/align]

[align=left]the auto cycle.[/align]

[align=left]The above models will be built without the in-line power[/align]

[align=left]resistor. The dryer timer motors will be 230v motors and[/align]

[align=left]will no longer require the resistor. The timer and motor will[/align]

[align=left]look very similar to the current timers, with the following[/align]

[align=left]exceptions: the timer motor body will be imprinted with[/align]

[align=left]“230VAC-60HZ” and can further be identified by the brown[/align]

[align=left]motor leads instead of black. The 230v timers cannot be[/align]

[align=left]used in a dryer with a power resistor, nor can the 120v[/align]

[align=left]timers be used in a dryer without a power resistor. As[/align]

[align=left]always, check the parts breakdown list for the correct replacement[/align]

[align=left]part. Failure to use the correct timer will result[/align]

[align=left]in a no advance situation or a motor that would quickly[/align]

[align=left]fail, due to excessive voltage.
[/align]

[align=left]L8178144[/align]

[align=left]January 2002[/align]

[align=left]Do not know if this could have any bearing on this problem but what was the voltage on your original timer and the voltage on the replacement timer??  I did not look to see if there was a resister in this dryer or not???  [/align]

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