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Dryer heats, tumbles, and "almost" shuts off but keeps running


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#41 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 06:00 AM

Pegi/William,

There is definitely somthing that is inline with the main harness that comes up to the console that looks like the Power Resistor Kit shown by William in his post. It is of different color, but same look as that one plus it is inline going to the Timer.

I did reinstall the new timer again last night and it was acting the same way. Would run the time down but wouldn't turn off.

 There was no humming sound at all either so it must of been a vibration or something from not being tight enough or whatnot the other night.

Dan


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#42 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 06:04 AM

Pegi,

The original timer is identical to the picture shown in this wonderful thread. ;)

I made sure all the numbers matched exactly. To amps, voltage etc.


#43 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 06:26 AM

The 230v timers cannot be


[align=left]used in a dryer with a power resistor, nor can the 120v[/align]


[align=left]timers be used in a dryer without a power resistor[/align]
[align=left] [/align]
[align=left]******This Whirlpool Service Pointer states the 240V timers cannot be used in a dryer with a power resister.[/align]
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#44 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 07:04 AM

Pegi,

I sent the wiring diagram through email to you...

Also, on the power resistor, could this have been done away with after a certain year? My dryer is going on 7 years old or is 7 years old. I have something in the bundle of wires, coming up into the top console, that has a part that looks like the power resistor. Could it actually be somethine else, like the Thermal Heater listed in the diagram? That says it should be 5600-8400 ohms. It is spliced into a violet wire.


#45 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 08:35 AM

Lets back up....you first said the new timer would not move at all, just sat there.  Now am I reading that it does advance but will not shut at the end like the original timer?     Not sure which is correct.
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#46 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 10:02 AM

I stated in the other posts that I could of been losing my mind and for all I know it was moving. So that is why I wanted to reinstall the new one again last night. I did that. 

To answer your question, both the original and the new timer operate the same. They move but do not shut off when they are supposed to.

To answer your other question in the email, if you are talking about line voltage it is 240volts.


#47 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 10:48 AM

Was talking about the voltage on the timers themselves, the originals were 120V motors, and the new ones are 240 volt motors, just making sure you did not get a 240V timer motor one  since it would not work on a dryer with a resister and you say yours has this.  So since both timers are doing the same thing it is something else in your dryer causing this and I have not a clue, have not ever seen this, till now.
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#48 kdog

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 10:53 AM

[user=914]drot0729[/user] wrote:

I stated in the other posts that I could of been losing my mind and for all I know it was moving. So that is why I wanted to reinstall the new one again last night. I did that. 

To answer your question, both the original and the new timer operate the same. They move but do not shut off when they are supposed to.

To answer your other question in the email, if you are talking about line voltage it is 240volts.


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#49 Mad Mac

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 10:55 AM

Pegi, can you post the diagram here? Or e-mail it to me, perhaps a second pair of eyes wil help.
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#50 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:01 AM

Mad Mac and Pegi,

I will post a better diagram later on from home instead. Verizon's email was going to take a zillion years to get it to work but I will drop it in photobucket at home and make it as clear as possible.

Dan


#51 kdog

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:03 AM

i have seen this happen before,the timer carries on through into the next cycle due to welded push to start contacts,shaft length of the switch does not allow for proper contact resulting in this scenario. order and install part #3395385- this is a 4 wire switch with a longer shaft,if your switch has only 2 terminals(some on/off buttons also have signal adj. by turning)- you can ignore the other 2 terminals on the switch- just make sure you match the co. and n.o. terminals with the same symbols which are printed on the wire leads.
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#52 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:12 AM

kdog,

So, this is the push to start switch, that has the white/red and white/black wires(I believe these are the two wires) practically right on top of each, on the same connector?

I tried seperating them two a little bit further apart thinking they might be shorting or something. I believe the orignal switch has the two wires spoken above right next/on top of each other and one other wire coming off the other side.

 


#53 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:16 AM

Can e-mail it but will need an e-mail address.......  tried to attach but said over the size limit
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#54 kdog

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:23 AM

the push to start switch is key#5 on the illustration that pegi posted on page one,as for wiring colors,i'm sorry but i can't recall what color the wies are,and the diagram you posted is too small to see,the switch in question is the one you press and hold for a few seconds to start the dryer-if one side of it has a piggy backed connector,seperating them is not necessary as they were joined intentionally.
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#55 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:26 AM

Pegi,

Is that the one I sent you? I was going to try and scan the pic again later or tomorrow, crop the pic so we can keep the electrical part bigger and fit it in here. Hopefully it is possible. :)


#56 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:29 AM

kdog,

Yes that is what I was talking about. I understand your point on seperating them as well. I will work on getting this diagram to be legible for here this weekend and most likely order that push to start switch on Monday. Thanks for the input, bud.

Dan


#57 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:32 AM

You sent the wiring diagram, and I just sent it to Mad Mac, think they are referring to the breakdown of your dryer from Sears that I posted.  However, I understand your timer just stops advancing before the off  postition, and does not go any further, and the dryer just keeps running??  Do not see how the push-to-start would cause this. You can by-pass the push to start switch and just close the door and turn the timer on and the dryer will run just fine with no problems with the timer stopping at the off position.  The timer breaks contact with the motor switch. But cannot by-pass  the push-to-start relay, with the 3 wires and the holding coil.  Cropping the diagram will help tho, as it is very blurry and hard to read.
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#58 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:35 AM

Oh okay. I gotcha. I will still work on the wiring diagram if not for future purposes after this mess. lol

I agree with your analysis on the push button, because you are correct that if it went past the cycle, it would actually pass Off.

Kdog, this is only a timed dryer. I have an explanation through this thread on how it works.


#59 drot0729

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:55 AM

You sent the wiring diagram, and I just sent it to Mad Mac, think they are referring to the breakdown of your dryer from Sears that I posted.  However, I understand your timer just stops advancing before the off  postition, and does not go any further, and the dryer just keeps running??  Do not see how the push-to-start would cause this. You can by-pass the push to start switch and just close the door and turn the timer on and the dryer will run just fine with no problems with the timer stopping at the off position.  The timer breaks contact with the motor switch. But cannot by-pass  the push-to-start relay, with the 3 wires and the holding coil.  ___________________________________________________________________________

You lost me here. lol

Do you mean if I/anyone bypassed the push to start switch somehow, you can run the dryer the way you speak of above in bold?

Dan


#60 kdog

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 11:59 AM

you said it had 3 cycles- one timed that goes up to 70 minutes,one aid dry that goes to 30 minutes,and "another one" that says delicate/cottons etc.  i believe you are referring to a "fabric master' cycle which is indeed an automatic cycle- otherwise,you would not require a resistor in the circuit as it is there to drop voltage to the timer motor during an auto cycle.  try running your dryer emty on the cotton cycle and see if it shuts off-but keep in mind it likely has a wrinkle guard feature built into it that will cause it to keep running quite  a while after the cycle expires(without heat). if the timer eventually carries over into the next cycle then pursue my start switch theory,if it just stays there before the end of the cycle ang continues to produse heat, proceed to inspect the heating element for grounding as pegi had suggested previously.
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