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      ***READ THIS PRIOR TO STARTING A NEW TOPIC***   05/02/2016

      Topics with the complete and accurate model number in the topic title will get priority attention. You can validate your model number by entering into the form on this page: http://www.repairclinic.com/?clearLs=true For more help on using Appliantology effectively, please see this page:  
Guest clarky

kenmore dryer won't heat

5 posts in this topic

hi,

my kenmore 70 series dryer is not heating. originally it was not even turning on, i used a multimeter and found that the thermal fuse had blown. after replacing it the dryer now turns on, but has no heat. i tested the heating element and the thermostats, they are all fine, except for one wierd thing. on the cycling thermostat, there are 4 prongs, two at oppsite ends that are far away from each other, and two the are close together. when i test for continuity between the two prongs that are far away from each other, i show continuity. when i test the two that are close together, there is no continuity. should there be continuity between these two? do i need a new cycling thermostat?

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

To read the resistance between the close two little terminals you need to set you meter setting to something like 20k ohms.

The two large terminals that are far apart is what turns power on and off to heating element.

The two small terminals close together is a bias heater to preheat the cycling t-stat for the lower temp settings. Even if the t-stat bias heater has failed this would not stop the machine from working just wouldn't be able to get lower heat settings.

Have you checked the power going to the dryer to make sure you're getting 220volts to the dryer. It only takes 110volts to run the motor, the circuit breaker the sends 110volts to one leg of the heater only could have snapped off and not flipped the circuit completely off.

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Without a model number we do not know what is in this dryer.  70 series tells us nothing.  the model number is on the dryer after you open the door.  See if there is a t-fuse toward the top of the element canister above the safety, assuming this is not a DOTT dryer.  If your motor fuse blew your dryer was over heating because your dryer vent from the dryer to the outside is blocked so the heater fuse could have blown also, if it has one, that is.   Like was said, be sure both of your 30 amp breakers are on in your breaker box also.

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Thanks for replying so quick. You were right, I tested the two close prongs on the 20k setting and it was fine. I tried resetting the breaker a few times with no luck, so i replaced the breaker. The dryer now works fine. That half of the breaker must have been bad. I really appreciate you helping me out on this one, you saved me from buying a part I didn't need.  For anyone using this as a refernece the model# of the dryer is 11060702990. Thanks again.

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:party:   welcome......

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