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Maytag dryer doesn't heat up, blew circuit breaker


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8 replies to this topic

#1 basmoq

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 11:37 AM

I have a 1 year old Maytag SDE4606ayw dryer that just ran out of warrenty and of course, just started acting up. At first, it blew the circuit breaker mid cycle. I switched the breaker back on and it worked a couple more cycles. Then it blew it again. Now after switching it back on, it runs, but after three hours of running (the dryer was set to intelli-dry) I noticed that it was running full tilt, but not heating up at all. I am very handy at repairs, but have never owned a dryer before and therefore know nothing about them. I imagine the heating coil (At least I imagine it's a coil) shorted out and that's what I need to replace, but I figured it'd be a good idea to check in here and see if there is anything else I should check. A short description of what to take off to find the heating element and anything else I should know would be appreciated, or a link if you have one handy. I'm having a bit of trouble finding a product manual with any kind of description of the part numbers as well, which would be usefull in ordering parts. Suggestions on where to get parts would also be appreciated (online, locally, etc.).

Thanks for the great forum, I'm off to do a lot of digging now!

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#2 stumpowitz

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 11:47 AM

Remove the lower access panel. With the unit unplugged or breaker off, reach in left hand side and remove two 5/16" screws that hold heater assembly to air duct at inside rear of unit. There is enough wire to pull the assembly out the front to inspect and test individual components.
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#3 basmoq

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 11:51 AM

sounds good, I would assume the access panel is on the front. Out with the new Craftsman voltmeter (Got a good new one, been looking for reasons to use it :) ) I'll post the results in a bit

#4 Trying to help

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 12:08 PM

Since you were popping the breaker on long runs prior, might want to verify correct voltage to your terminal block on the back of the dryer. With it running, you should read 220VAC from the two outside posts (L1&L2), and 120VAC from each of the outside posts to the middle (neutral). You might just of had a weak breaker or a loose connection raising your amp draw.  
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#5 basmoq

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 02:34 PM

well, I had actually considered this, because there are two breakers on the line, one I can reach right next to the plug, and another one in the room only the landlord can reach. The second breaker is the one that would flip, and the landlord just replaced it thinking it was the problem, but after replacing it, I have no heat when the dryer is running. Could his faulty breaker have screwed my dryer?

#6 Pegi

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 02:39 PM

You could still not have 240 volts to your dryer, what does your volt meter tell you you have where the cord is attached to the terminal block..
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#7 Trying to help

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Posted 09 July 2006 - 03:04 PM

With it running, you should read 220VAC from the two outside posts (L1&L2), and 120VAC from each of the outside posts to the middle (neutral).

Do the voltage checks first. I have a feeling there is nothing wrong with your dryer.....yet.  
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#8 basmoq

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 08:01 AM

well, that was it, there is 120 volts from either of the sides to the ground, but no 220 across the sides... I'll have to get the landlord back out.

#9 bigger hammer

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Posted 10 July 2006 - 09:22 PM

when your landlord replaced the breaker he tied into the same hot as the breaker you got......so both breakers are on the same hot

thats why L1 to ground and L2 to ground show 120

but 0 accross L1 and L2 cause it would be like putting both your meter leads in the same hole of the wall outlet

Before you start.....how much is it going to cost and how long is it going to take?




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