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Kenmore Gas Oven Model 103.3247891


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Lurker_screemn_*

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 03:01 AM

I have read a couple of recent posts on this subject, and my situation mirrors one by "ajstanger."  This is where I've been.  Ignitor did not glow, so while I had removed the ignitor to do some testing, it fell in the sink and part of the carborundum coil broke off, so I thought, OK, maybe it had a crack and wasn't working, so I replaced it to no avail.  Then I further tested and found I had no continuity on my thermostat valve, which I have replaced to no avail.  I then checked the gas valve for continuity, and it checked OK.  I went back to the ignitor, removed it, and got a voltage reading from the two wires going to the ignitor of 15V with the thermostat turned to 350 degrees.  This oven has no electronics, but I am convinced now the problem was and has been not getting 120V to the ignitor.  I have checked and am getting 120V to the incoming plug and going out the other side of the plug where the wires run to the gas valve - ignitor - and thermostat.  It does have mechanical timer settings, which I have spun around and reset, and I'm wondering if they could be causing current not to get to the ignitor.  Where do I go from here? 

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 07:56 AM

Hummm, this is one odd range, the burner looks like the old caloric oven burners.  Is the clock just a clock or does this have time bake, self clean???  If it is just a clock/timer would not effect the oven, but it would if had say timed bake, and it could have gone bad, killing the oven.  If it is just a clock, you need to start tracing wires to see where you have lost 105 volts??  If the clock feeds the oven, might want to look at by-passing it if it has gone bad.
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#3 kdog

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 09:18 AM

since the gas valve and ignitor are wired in series,i dont see how you would measure 120v across the ignitor alone,you should be measuring from one side of the valve to the other side of the ignitor,best bet is to use a current clamp on the wire to see what it is drawing- could be a contact in your thermostat as well- ..............  what is a "thermostat valve" ????
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#4 Lurker_screemn_*

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 01:36 PM

Pegi,

The oven does have a timed bake, and I will take your suggestion and see if I can trace where it fits in with the overall wiring scheme and bypass if possible.  Thanks a lot for the suggestion. 


#5 Lurker_screemn_*

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 01:42 PM

kdog,

Sorry, should have only read "thermostat" w/o the word "valve."  But should you not be getting 120V from the wires going to the ignitor?  Doesn't the gas valve only come into play after the ignitor heats up to a certain point and resistance drops to open the gas valve, or does the gas valve actually play a part in completeing the circuit prior to opening and allowing gas to enter?


#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 04:05 PM

[user=0]screemn[/user] wrote:

 I went back to the ignitor, removed it, and got a voltage reading from the two wires going to the ignitor of 15V with the thermostat turned to 350 degrees.  This oven has no electronics, but I am convinced now the problem was and has been not getting 120V to the ignitor.  I have checked and am getting 120V to the incoming plug and going out the other side of the plug where the wires run to the gas valve - ignitor - and thermostat.

If you're only getting 15 v to the ignitor, then you start here and troubleshoot back until you find where you're losing the voltage.  Not sure what harness you're talking about but, in general, it's possible to have back connections at harnesses. 

Post your wiring diagram and we can point out specific things to focus on.


#7 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 29 May 2005 - 03:34 AM

I can almost guarntee you that you are going to find either someone has accidetally moved the clock controls to a timed bake or the clock itself has gone bad.

If you never have used the time bake feature and have no idea how it works there is a good chance that at sometime when the unit was being cleaned or kids maybe turned settings.

Usually it will say somewhere on the clock time bake settings, "Push for manual bake", both start and stop times will usually be at same time as the actual clock then one of the clocks, usually the start time has to be pushed in for manual bake.
William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

#8 Lurker_Huejorg_*

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 04:43 AM

My White-Westinghouse Gas Dryer (DG400KXW1) will initially fire up it's flame when I start it.  The glow ignitor glows, the gas valve solenoid clicks and the blue flame is visible.  After 5 - 10 minutes the flame goes out because the thermostat's max temperature was reached.  After several more minutes the ignitor glows but the flame is not re-lit. This cycle of glow and no flame continues for rest of drying time.  If I let the dryer sit for awhile and restart it, the flame will be lit, but then it follows the same cycle of glow ignitor glowing but flame is never re-lit.  Any advise would be very much appreciated.

#9 Pegi

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Posted 24 July 2006 - 09:27 AM

Well, this is in the Kitchen forum and this is under a gas range topic, but oh well, the coils on top of your gas valve have gotten weak, will not re-open the gas valve when they are hot, will do so when they have cooled off...replace the coils and heat will be hours...;)
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#10 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 August 2006 - 11:08 AM

I moved this topic to the Kitchen Forum where it should be . Thanks for pointing that out, Pegi. :dude:




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