11 replies to this topic

[tlcnet]

The freezer is working fine, but the fridge is not cold.  Even on the coldest setting it is just cool.

There is a small amout of frost on the back wall of the freezer about mid way down and on the fridge side (side by side)

The fan in the freezer is running. 

Can anyone help me?

Thank you!

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Drop the back inside wall in the freezer and get some eyeballs on the evaporator.  You're looking for either too much frost or a little ball of frost.  Also, make sure your evaporator fan motor is running.

[tlcnet]

There are three "rows" of coils in the back. The bottom two are completely frosted over.  Evap fan?  There is a fan in the top of the frezer behind the ice bin that is running.


I am defrosting it now.  Is something causing this or is is just old?
 

Thanks

[Pegi]

I would suspect you have a defrost problem, either the defrost timer, bi-metal or defrost heater has failed. Check the heater(s) under the evaperator first, they are glass and break frequently. When the evap gets excess frost on the coils, it blocks the airflow to the food cpmpartment.

[tlcnet]

def. defrost problem.  back was blocked with ice.  deforsted with blowdryer and all was well again... for a little while.  It is already frosting up again.  Fridge runs constantly (it never turns off).  Can you help me diagnose?  Heater "looked" fine, but what do I know. 

Where is the def. timer located?  How can I test it.  Any way to manualy turn on the heater to see if it is working?

thanks,

[Pegi]

Is late, will post instructions tomorrow........ :)

[tlcnet]

Thanks,

I think I found the timer.  Is it under the frezer behind the kick?  I turned the screw till the fridge went off.  It stayed off for a while then came back on.  It did not defrost though.  Heaters never came on.  hope this helps narrow the search??

 

Thanks again

[Pegi]

Yes, thanks.  Was very tired last night and could not stay awake long enough to reply. :)  Remove the bottom panel in the freezer after unplugging the box, and check the heater(s) with an ohm meter and check the bi-metal at the top of the evap also to see which one is dead.  Remember the bi-metal will "open" not give a reading if it warms to above 50 degrees so this test must be done while it is still cold.  If in doubt replace both parts to be safe.  And be sure to remove all of the ice after your repair or you will be right back where you started.

[tlcnet]

Thanks again.

I will check as soon as I am off work

[Pegi]

You will want to check for continunity, which means on the heater ,set the meter to ohm's and probably 1K since it will have higher resistance.  If the needle does not move when checking both ends of the heater with it unplugged from the frig it is bad, and if the needle moves it is good.  Same with the bi-metal (defrost termination thermostat) the gray disk on the top  part of the evaperator.  However if the bi-metal has opened because it has warmed up over 50-55 degrees you will have to freeze it again to test it.  You can by pass the bi-metal to test the heater and turn the timer to defrost.  If the heater comes on you know the bi-metal is defective.  If the heater does not come on, well, replace the heater.

[tlcnet]

very enlightening!  Thank you again

[Pegi]

;)