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Chiseldog

Kenmore Dishwasher #665.16912

37 posts in this topic

My Kenmore dishwasher died.  I get power to the appliance.  I've checked the thermal fuse and get continunity.  I've checked the door switch.  It seems to be okay although even in the "off" position, I get a little current through it. (Is this normal?)  Is there anything else I should check, or am I looking to replace the circuit board?  Before it died, everything worked fine...no blinking lights, etc.

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Chiseldog,  ok,  you have power,  fuse is ok,  door switch ok,  float ok,  could you have,  by accident put it in the demo mode?  This will put the dishwasher in a standby mode after 60 secs.  The display will be blank.   Try this on the key pad in this sequence...press...high temp,  air-dry,  air dry again and high-temp.   This will remove it from the demo mode if it's in it....let us know,  Ron

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Tried that.  No go.  No display, no nothing.

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There are more numbers in this model number.  If there is power to the unit, door switch is ok, fuse is ok, only other thing could be contol board or power to the board..

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Does this look like the complete model #:  665.16912001?

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Yes, that looks like a good model number but since it is a Whirlpool D/W with a Kenmore name on it we cannot pull up any tech sheets.  See if you can find yours , usually behind the toe panel on the frame of the unit

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I've got the spec sheet.  After looking at the wiring diagram,  I connected a test lamp between the door switch "black" wire and the vent actuator "white" wire and the light came on indicating that I'm at least getting power that far.  Now what?

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Post your tech sheet here or fax it to me at 775-416-4449 and I'll post it.  That way, we can all gaze lovingly upon it and pray to the pot-bellied Buddha for inspiration. 

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My spec sheet unfolds and is quite big.  Is there a specific part of it that would be most important, such as the wiring diagram, circuit diagrams, or do you need everything including cycle time charts?  If you do, I'll have to find a very large scanner or make a whole bunch of regular sized pages that you'll have to paste together like a puzzle.

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The wiring diagram and any electrical notes would be a good start.

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Here're the wiring diagram pages you faxed me.

Chiseldog.pdf

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Chiseldog, I've run into this problem before.  You can read all about it here:

http://fixitnow.com/2004/08/war-story-kitchenaid-dishwasher.htm

Remove your kickplate and open the junction box.  Cut the circuit breaker and undo the connections at the box.  Tie in a light bulb or some other easy-to-install appliance and turn the breaker on to make sure you have current flow.

 

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I've already done that.  As you can see from an eariler post, I've got power to the door switch and the vent actuator.

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check from black @ controller to white @ controller. If you have power controller is n/g. If not may have lost neutral leg somewhere.

Good Luck

 

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Aren't the black and white wires at the controller the line feeds?  Shouldn't I show power between those two leads?

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do you indeed show voltage at the board,cause even if you do,doesn't mean there is not a power supply problem- read the grandmasters story of enlghtenment,where he too,showed a voltage,but withouy a return path could muster nothing more than buffalo wing flatulance.:shock:

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Forgive my ignorance.  My dishwasher is on it's own dedicated circuit.  It has it's own neutral wire going to the breaker box.  When I connect the meter between the black and white wire and show voltage, if the neutral (white) wire is disconnected where or how  exactly can can I be completing the circuit?  How can my meter and test light show any signs of life if one of the legs of the circuit is disconnected.  And since I am showing voltage, it seems iI must have the neutral half of the circuit intact. 

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Voltage does not make things run, current does.  Having voltage only sets up the potential for current to flow and do real work.  That's why only measuring for voltage is a necessary but not a sufficient diagnostic test. 

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So please explain to me in simple terms how to do a sufficient diagnostic test and please explain where I am getting voltage from.

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See my earlier post and read the link included therein.

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I just don't understand.  I've read and re-read your story quite a few times and am at a loss to figure out how you can show voltage when one of the legs of the circuit is disconncted.  Just now, I went out to my breaker box and disconnected the neutral (white) wire from the panel.  Back at the dishwasher, when I connect the meter between the black and white wires, I show nothing.  When I connect the black wire with a ground, yes, I see voltage.  But when I just use the two wires from the box there is no sign of voltage.  When I reconnect the white wire at the box, just as I thought, I show a complete circuit.  What am I missing? 

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Maybe someone else will jump in here.  We're just not connecting and I don't know how much clearer I can be.

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"Remove your kickplate and open the junction box.  Cut the circuit breaker and undo the connections at the box.  Tie in a light bulb or some other easy-to-install appliance and turn the breaker on to make sure you have current flow."  This was one of your posts.  And this is exactly what I have been doing and trying to describe this morning only that I am putting the light farther down the line this time rather than at the junction box. and I am getting the same results. It seems like I have current flow.  And if I do in fact have current flow, what's the next step?  Should I just go out and get a circuit board?

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So, you tied in a light bulb at the junction box and the light bulb lit up?

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Yes, at the junction box and at various points into the wire path down the line.  I get light everywhere.  The only thing that doesn't light is the dishwasher. 

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