Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Photo

Kenmore Dishwasher #665.16912


  • Please log in to reply
36 replies to this topic

#21 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 05 June 2005 - 06:09 AM

I just don't understand.  I've read and re-read your story quite a few times and am at a loss to figure out how you can show voltage when one of the legs of the circuit is disconncted.  Just now, I went out to my breaker box and disconnected the neutral (white) wire from the panel.  Back at the dishwasher, when I connect the meter between the black and white wires, I show nothing.  When I connect the black wire with a ground, yes, I see voltage.  But when I just use the two wires from the box there is no sign of voltage.  When I reconnect the white wire at the box, just as I thought, I show a complete circuit.  What am I missing? 

Use the Appliantology Parts Search Box to Find What You Need!
Enter your model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

#22 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,031 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 05 June 2005 - 06:24 AM

Maybe someone else will jump in here.  We're just not connecting and I don't know how much clearer I can be.

#23 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 05 June 2005 - 06:41 AM

"Remove your kickplate and open the junction box.  Cut the circuit breaker and undo the connections at the box.  Tie in a light bulb or some other easy-to-install appliance and turn the breaker on to make sure you have current flow."  This was one of your posts.  And this is exactly what I have been doing and trying to describe this morning only that I am putting the light farther down the line this time rather than at the junction box. and I am getting the same results. It seems like I have current flow.  And if I do in fact have current flow, what's the next step?  Should I just go out and get a circuit board?



#24 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

Samurai Appliance Repair Man

    Shōgun

  • Master Samurai Tech
  • 29,031 posts
  • Location: USA
  • Flavorite Brew:Sapporo Original Draft Rice Lager

Posted 05 June 2005 - 06:46 AM

So, you tied in a light bulb at the junction box and the light bulb lit up?

#25 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 05 June 2005 - 07:04 AM

Yes, at the junction box and at various points into the wire path down the line.  I get light everywhere.  The only thing that doesn't light is the dishwasher. 

#26 Ron

Ron

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 368 posts

Posted 05 June 2005 - 07:34 AM

Chiseldog,  you are absolutely sure that the TCO is not open,  located on the board itself.  There was a service flash on this in May, 2003.  Condition:  TCO opens and cuts power to the electronic control,   Correction:  install thermal cut out Kit,  Part # 8193762.   Since you have power everywhere you checked,  I would go a head and replace the board.  Part # is 8269127,   You can get your parts here and can return them if that is not the problem...Ron

#27 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 05 June 2005 - 07:44 AM

Well, I get real good continunity through the TCO.  Black wire in, Black/white stripe out.  All my tests work the same no matter which side of the TCO i use.

#28 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 05 June 2005 - 08:55 AM

also,take a good look at the 2 microswitches that are in the door latch- one switches the hot line,and the other the neutral.  see if the flag terminals on the switches show signs of overheating as there was an issue with them as well,the replacements come with new lead wires and a small terminal block,this can created the same scenario- voltage is present,but current cannot flow. it's like a partially twisted garden hose; the water pressure is there,but you get no volume of water flowing.
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship

#29 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 05 June 2005 - 10:48 AM

This model only has a single door switch that interrupts the hot wire.  I've tested it a few times.  That's where I started.  It seems to work fine.  And It looks good too.  No sign of being overheated.

#30 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 11 June 2005 - 01:08 PM

All right.  I got a new electronic control and still I get abloutely nothing showing on the panel. I have tried to unock the controls by holding in the key pad for the prescribed amount of time.  I have checked continunity on the overfill switch and soil sensor.  I have tried to make it work using jumpers on both the thermal fuse and the door switch so these can't come into play.  For those of you who doubt that I am getting  adequate power, current, dropped neutral, or any other such thing, I can run an electric drill motor if I plug it into the black and white wires that feed the panel.  That would indicate to me that I am getting enough power up to that point.  So why is this thing still dead?

#31 Kiwi-nadian

Kiwi-nadian

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 376 posts

Posted 11 June 2005 - 01:55 PM

Have you checked the wiring loom for split wires and all PCB's for dry solder joints?
please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#32 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 12 June 2005 - 03:10 PM

What is a PCB?

#33 Kiwi-nadian

Kiwi-nadian

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 376 posts

Posted 12 June 2005 - 03:29 PM

Printed circuit board. ;)

Which is the electronic circuit board "brain" which distributes the power to all the components.  It will switch the live or the neutral.

please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#34 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 12 June 2005 - 04:58 PM

Are you suggeisting that my brand new circuit board might have bad solder joints?

#35 Kiwi-nadian

Kiwi-nadian

    Kohai

  • Sublime Master of Appliantology
  • PipPipPip
  • 376 posts

Posted 13 June 2005 - 01:36 AM

"The only thing that doesn't light is the dishwasher.""

 Have you checked the interface board?  If you are getting voltage at all other points, there could be a bad connection or the interface could be faulty ( not lighting up ).

please help us to help you, http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm

#36 Chiseldog

Chiseldog

    Samanera

  • Grasshoppah
  • Pip
  • 18 posts

Posted 13 June 2005 - 03:39 PM

How do I check the interface board?  What tests can I perform on it?

#37 kdog

kdog

    RoughShod

  • Appliantology Fellow
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 7,465 posts
  • Location: Canada
  • Flavorite Brew:Dickens Cider

Posted 13 June 2005 - 08:05 PM

the only test you can do on a dead interface is to "replace it with a known good one"
Help us keep the lights on: buy appliance parts here ==> http://repairclinic.com

For service manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice ==> Apprenticeship




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics