32 replies to this topic

[FPSteve1]

Me again from the msn site...

Recap and update: GWL10 washer recirculates water but won't drain: tub full of water at start of rinse cycle, machine recirculates awhile, then beeps with code #37 "Pump blocked error " , but pump and drain not blocked. Again, it just recirculates, even with Drain Pump Test. No clogs anywhere.

Essentially, the diverter valve isn't switching to drain.  Although no obvious broken parts on the outside, replaced diverter valve with a new one from F&P (now with protective hood- fancy!) - no change in problem, but at least only spent $17.

Have 120v going to pump and diverter valve during pumpout, both up in control panel and at pump and diverter valve themselves. NOTE: when wires are removed from diverter valve during pumpout/rinse cycle, diverter valve allows machine to drain out drain pipe.  Plug it all back together, and valve closes to drain pipe and machine recirculates again.

Are we now looking at the motor controller module for bad signals?

 

[TerrysApplianceRepair]

Try it on Permanent press and see what happens.

[The Seven]

[user=138]FPSteve1[/user] wrote:

Me again from the msn site...

Have 120v going to pump and diverter valve during pumpout, both up in control panel and at pump and diverter valve themselves. NOTE: when wires are removed from diverter valve during pumpout/rinse cycle, diverter valve allows machine to drain out drain pipe.  Plug it all back together, and valve closes to drain pipe and machine recirculates again.

Are we now looking at the motor controller module for bad signals?
 

It shows that the diverter is at "recirculation state" when powered (ON) and at "drain state" when un-powered (OFF).

Check the switching device of the diverter: by relay or by power-electronic device(triac or SCR).
You may have to get the circuit diagram of this washer. F&P usually uses power-electronic device to control the washer motor.

a) If by relay, the relay may be stuck "ON" due to melted contacts.
b) If by power-electronic device, the device may be burnt and short-circuit.
c) If the switching device is good, then trace the cause back to the electronic control board.

[FPSteve1]

Same thing happens on Permanent press.

I'm assuming the diverter valve switching device is good, since I replaced it with a new one and still having the same problem.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Pump control in this model has changed.  The pump cycles on and off every 10 seconds during the initial (60 hz) pumpout.  Do you hear this happening? 

In this model, the pump is part of the switch mode power supply so if the pump thermal overload opens, you'll lose power to the control module.  You can measure this.  Is this happening?

 

[The Seven]

[user=138]FPSteve1[/user] wrote:

Although no obvious broken parts on the outside, replaced diverter valve with a new one from F&P (now with protective hood- fancy!) - no change in problem, but at least only spent $17.

I'm assuming the diverter valve switching device is good, since I replaced it with a new one and still having the same problem.

It sounded that you have replaced the diverter valve AND its (electrical/electronic) switching device.

If so, is the switching device a "relay" or a "power-electronic device (triac or SCR)"?

[FPSteve1]

Samurai - Yes, it's cycling every 10 seconds, and if I'm measuring correctly and at the right time (just a Grasshopper here) it's losing power to the control panel.

Seven- not sure how to tell if the new switch is relay or not. Just popped open the old one, and the round silver disc inside and plastic casing next to it appears burnt.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=138]FPSteve1[/user] wrote:

at the right time (just a Grasshopper here) it's losing power to the control panel.

Hooold on there, Bubbalouie! You say you ARE losing power to the control board? If so, then that's the problem.

[FPSteve1]

In this model, the pump is part of the switch mode power supply so if the pump thermal overload opens, you'll lose power to the control module.  You can measure this.  Is this happening?

I think so. Again, I may be measuring at the wrong place or at the wrong time, or have something disconnected.  I'll get in there again.  When exactly in the cycle and where should I measure?

If I am checking correctly, and it's losing power, then it's still the pump that needs to be replaced?

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

[user=138]FPSteve1[/user] wrote:

If I am checking correctly, and it's losing power, then it's still the pump that needs to be replaced?

That is correctum!

[mopar X]

did you have the sheet for diagnostic mode if not heres one for you

Attached Files

•  GWL10.pdf   309.8K   406 downloads

[dadiusfixus]

My F&P GWL10 wont drain and it appears to be the diverter valve. One authorized repair place said I should get the instructions over the phone on how to clear the pump from the authorized repair company located closer to me.  They apparently want $250 to come and tell me this personally.  I downloaded the PDF file with the diagnostic mode instructions and forced the pump-drain mode, but it only recirculates.   I do not see the details about testing the diverter valve [other posts mention testing the diverter valve specifically].  If you have that information I can try and verify if that is the problem.

 

[FPSteve1]

We finally gave up and took it to the shop - diverter valve just wasn't working, and I got zapped trying to keep testing it during different cycles.  The problem was the motor controller module (about $130  for this model,) which also fried the new diverter valve we had put in.  New parts and labor were $300.

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

Bummer deeude. :java: But, hey, it's fixed. And thanks for the update!

[dadiusfixus]

Samurai, you are a god!

I think the diverter valve would have been fixed sooner, but F&P did not ship the part in time for the weekend.  No problema there.  Took your advice and had quite a few beers, sent the wife to the laundromat and had a very relaxing weekend [so peaceful!]. 

Unless I am mistaken, the connections to the diverter valve are not polarized [note the AC 50/60 Hz stamped on the actuator]  Just in case, for reference, I put the black wire closest to the side of the orange actuator with the  part information i.e. 50/60 Hz and all is well.  For those that missed the post about the default mode of the actuator [wires disconnected] it should be switched to DRAIN the tub.  Unfortunately, my diverter valve failed due to a build up of hard water and/or other various crud and the small plastic piece that joins the actuator and the small lever that moves the valve was broken by the force trying to push the stuck valve.  In case you did not take detailed notes on the direction the valve was installed, look inside the valve and the path that is open on the valve connects the tub and the drain hose.

Before buying the valve, you should be able to disconnect the orange and black connector from the top, under the panel [turn off power first, of course] and valve should be in drain mode and not re-circulate.  Enter diagnostic mode, press "regular" to initiate pump and you should be draining.  If not, valve may be broken, or possibly plugged

[dadiusfixus]

FPSteve1 appears to have spent more than six months trying to fix his (original post in April, and "took to shop" in November)

WOW, that's persistent!

[FPSteve1]

No awards here.   We actually got it repaired in June, but it did take almost 2 months by the time we waited for parts, tried new things, bailed out the washer a hundred times, etc..

Good learning experience tho, and really enjoy reading The Samurai's website (and drinking beer.)

[blitzpb]

I am resurrecting this thread!  I have the same problem with the diverter valve not draining but continually recirculating.  When I first found the diverter valve I noticed that it was getting very hot to the touch.  I also noticed that as soon as the unit is plugged in the little elctronic plunger very s l o w l y came out and closed off the drain.

I thought that it didnt seem right that it would open so slowly AND be super hot so I ordered a new valve thinking it would solve all of my problems and eliminate hunger throughout the world.  You can tell from my sarcasm that I was incorrect.  =(.  Since I ordered a new valve I decided to dissect the old one.  The little siler button inside was very burnt looking, further confirming my suspicions that the diverter valve was bad.  Oh yes, before I go on, there was nothing stuck in the valve or any broken bits.

So, last night I replaced the valve and plugged it in.  Same thing happened.  The plunger slowly creeped out closing the drain and the actuator got hot.  I ran the cleaning cycle just to see and sure enough, I can hear the pump cylcing every 10 secs and only recirculating the water.

Where do I go from here?

[AccApp]

The motor controller is sending power to the DV. You'll need to replace the MC.

[blitzpb]

The MC is not repairable I assume?

Fortunately for me, I live in SoCal so shipping is pretty quick.

Thank you for the quick response.