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dnelms

Whirlpool Washer Broke Again

27 posts in this topic

Well last month I replaced the drive coupler with help from this group. Today my wife ran a few loads with no problem. Started a laod and the tub filled and agitated and obviously stopped at some point before draining. Nothing at all works now. Tub is full of water, at least the last problem the machine still made noise to help locate the problem. Tried every different cycle, nothing works.  Anybody got any starting points. Actually considering a new washer at this point unless it's something we can diagnose quick.

Whirpool Washer Model # LSR8233JQ0

 

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The lid switch harnes wiggled loose because you didn't snap it together all the way.  Flip up the control console and secure that harness.

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Or, someone dropped the lid and smashed the poor lid switch to smithereens!!!  Could have broken the plunger too.....  easy fix either way it goes,......:cool:

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That was not the problem. Installed new lid switch and still nothing. I did move the knob to the beginning of a cycle and got water to start if I changed the settings from small load to super load. Not sure that tells you anything. Need any other things that may cause this problem.

Thanks

 

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[user=344]dnelms[/user] wrote:

I did move the knob to the beginning of a cycle and got water to start if I changed the settings from small load to super load.

 

That would indicate a bad pressure switch but, tell me, will the washer run if you advance the timer to spin?  If not, then you'll need to break out your meter and the wiring diagram for the washer and we'll dive into some troubleshooting. 

Let the games begin!  :armed:

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no the spin would not start.... I'll have to borrow a meter from my

brother. This would be getting in an area where I can see color of

wires and can read drawings, but other than that have no clue.

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Gird up your loins like a man, for the Samurai shall guide you through your hour of darkness.  Armed with the wiring diagram for your washer and the knowledge to use your borrowed multimeter you shall prevail over all thine enemies.  Lo, I have given this unto thee.  You shall smite this insolent washer with the sting of many hornets and shall trample it underfoot like unto the hooves of many cattle. 

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Might want to check to see if the violet wire got pulled off of the fill level switch in the console.  Also make sure the wire harness did not come unplugged from the motor as you would have removed the motor to change the coupler.

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thanks and I think I''ll go buy my own multimeter for future use as

well... taking them twins (17 yr old boy and girl) out to dinner for

the birthday, will be in touch later

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Might want to check to see if the violet wire got pulled off of the

fill level switch in the console. Also make sure the wire harness did

not come unplugged from the motor as you would have removed the motor

to change the coupler.

I'll check the violet wire, but the wire harness at the motor may not

be a problem, since it's been working for over 3 weeks since I changed

it.

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OK, I'm back with multimeter in hand..... what do I need to do first?

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OK, fixing to leave work on the way home..... can someone instruct me as to what I need look for first based on what has been tried so far?

 

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Ok, first off, do a continuity test on the lid switch:  with the lid open, no continuity in the switch, with the lid closed, should have continuity through the switch. 

If that's good, we'll need to see if we're getting 120v through the switch to the motor's run winding.

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ok, I am an ultra novice when dealing with electrical. Not sure in order to test these where you put the red lead vs, the black lead, what setting to use on the multimeter. If you could talk me thru it I can catch on, but need a novice starting point. For instance what part of the lid switch am I testing,? the wires from the console to the wire harness that is part of the lid switch?

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OK, a little reading and I now know this.... I unplugged the wire from the console to the lid switch harness. I get a good reading doing the follwing:

2 outside contacts, get a good reading

either outside contact and middle, nothing

black to ground screw, red to middle, good reading

If that's good, we'll need to see if we're getting 120v through the switch to the motor's run winding.

need some real help with this, know where the motor is, but given the length of the test leads, what switch am I testing? I assume (always trouble) that it will be the group of wires that plug into the motor? Which wire to test?

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With the harness out of the lid switch, you'll put your leads on the outer two terminals of the lid switch itself-- not the removed harness.  With your meter set on Rx1, open and close the lid.  You should read full continuity (near zero ohms) with the lid closed and no continuity with the lid open.

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You should read full continuity (near zero ohms) with the lid closed and no continuity with the lid open.

Well I did do it right last night. Of course it better have been right considering I just replaced that switch thinking it may be the problem. What's the next battle?

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thanks for all the help from everyone... got  surprise $$$ from work, so we went ahaead a bought a new washer, just not another Whirlpool.

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Pray tell us what brand did you buy??? :shock:

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Great!  We'll see you in two to four years when your new machine needs to be repaired. 

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Frigidaire is what we got.

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better yet,we'll see u in a year and a week

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:poison:

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:yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes::yikes:A FRIGGIN' FRIGGIDAIRE!!!! AAAAARRRRRRRGGGGGGGGHGHHHHHHH:yikes::yikes:

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Well I've gone thru a GE, a Whirpool, so Frigidaire was next on the list. Of course I'll be more than happy to return it and get whatever you suggest assuming you want to pay for it. We get what fits our budget, with a family a 4 we needed a running washer now.... can't see what's wrong with that.

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