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Whirlpool Washer Broke Again


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26 replies to this topic

#1 dnelms

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Posted 30 May 2005 - 02:48 PM

Well last month I replaced the drive coupler with help from this group. Today my wife ran a few loads with no problem. Started a laod and the tub filled and agitated and obviously stopped at some point before draining. Nothing at all works now. Tub is full of water, at least the last problem the machine still made noise to help locate the problem. Tried every different cycle, nothing works.  Anybody got any starting points. Actually considering a new washer at this point unless it's something we can diagnose quick.

Whirpool Washer Model # LSR8233JQ0

 


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#2 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 30 May 2005 - 03:29 PM

The lid switch harnes wiggled loose because you didn't snap it together all the way.  Flip up the control console and secure that harness.

#3 Pegi

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Posted 30 May 2005 - 04:59 PM

Or, someone dropped the lid and smashed the poor lid switch to smithereens!!!  Could have broken the plunger too.....  easy fix either way it goes,......:cool:
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#4 dnelms

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 11:37 AM

That was not the problem. Installed new lid switch and still nothing. I did move the knob to the beginning of a cycle and got water to start if I changed the settings from small load to super load. Not sure that tells you anything. Need any other things that may cause this problem.

Thanks

 


#5 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 11:40 AM

[user=344]dnelms[/user] wrote:

I did move the knob to the beginning of a cycle and got water to start if I changed the settings from small load to super load.
 

That would indicate a bad pressure switch but, tell me, will the washer run if you advance the timer to spin?  If not, then you'll need to break out your meter and the wiring diagram for the washer and we'll dive into some troubleshooting. 

Let the games begin!  :armed:


#6 dnelms

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 11:47 AM

no the spin would not start.... I'll have to borrow a meter from my
brother. This would be getting in an area where I can see color of
wires and can read drawings, but other than that have no clue.



#7 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 11:55 AM

Gird up your loins like a man, for the Samurai shall guide you through your hour of darkness.  Armed with the wiring diagram for your washer and the knowledge to use your borrowed multimeter you shall prevail over all thine enemies.  Lo, I have given this unto thee.  You shall smite this insolent washer with the sting of many hornets and shall trample it underfoot like unto the hooves of many cattle. 

#8 Pegi

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 12:06 PM

Might want to check to see if the violet wire got pulled off of the fill level switch in the console.  Also make sure the wire harness did not come unplugged from the motor as you would have removed the motor to change the coupler.
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#9 dnelms

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 12:12 PM

thanks and I think I''ll go buy my own multimeter for future use as
well... taking them twins (17 yr old boy and girl) out to dinner for
the birthday, will be in touch later



#10 dnelms

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 12:16 PM

Might want to check to see if the violet wire got pulled off of the
fill level switch in the console. Also make sure the wire harness did
not come unplugged from the motor as you would have removed the motor
to change the coupler.


I'll check the violet wire, but the wire harness at the motor may not
be a problem, since it's been working for over 3 weeks since I changed
it.


#11 dnelms

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Posted 31 May 2005 - 03:43 PM

OK, I'm back with multimeter in hand..... what do I need to do first?

#12 dnelms

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Posted 01 June 2005 - 11:50 AM

OK, fixing to leave work on the way home..... can someone instruct me as to what I need look for first based on what has been tried so far?

 


#13 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 01 June 2005 - 03:49 PM

Ok, first off, do a continuity test on the lid switch:  with the lid open, no continuity in the switch, with the lid closed, should have continuity through the switch. 

If that's good, we'll need to see if we're getting 120v through the switch to the motor's run winding.


#14 dnelms

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Posted 01 June 2005 - 04:23 PM

ok, I am an ultra novice when dealing with electrical. Not sure in order to test these where you put the red lead vs, the black lead, what setting to use on the multimeter. If you could talk me thru it I can catch on, but need a novice starting point. For instance what part of the lid switch am I testing,? the wires from the console to the wire harness that is part of the lid switch?

#15 dnelms

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Posted 01 June 2005 - 04:47 PM

OK, a little reading and I now know this.... I unplugged the wire from the console to the lid switch harness. I get a good reading doing the follwing:

2 outside contacts, get a good reading
either outside contact and middle, nothing

black to ground screw, red to middle, good reading


If that's good, we'll need to see if we're getting 120v through the switch to the motor's run winding.


need some real help with this, know where the motor is, but given the length of the test leads, what switch am I testing? I assume (always trouble) that it will be the group of wires that plug into the motor? Which wire to test?

#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 03:58 AM

With the harness out of the lid switch, you'll put your leads on the outer two terminals of the lid switch itself-- not the removed harness.  With your meter set on Rx1, open and close the lid.  You should read full continuity (near zero ohms) with the lid closed and no continuity with the lid open.

#17 dnelms

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 04:48 AM

You should read full continuity (near zero ohms) with the lid closed and no continuity with the lid open.


Well I did do it right last night. Of course it better have been right considering I just replaced that switch thinking it may be the problem. What's the next battle?

#18 dnelms

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 03:40 PM

thanks for all the help from everyone... got  surprise $$$ from work, so we went ahaead a bought a new washer, just not another Whirlpool.

#19 Pegi

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 03:52 PM

Pray tell us what brand did you buy??? :shock:
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#20 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 04:42 PM

Great!  We'll see you in two to four years when your new machine needs to be repaired. 




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