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GLC

Maytag SxS removing top panel in refrig side

15 posts in this topic

Hello to you all,

On a Maytag SxS removing the top panel in refrig side pretty much says it all. How in the heck do I get the rear part of the panel to drop so the entire panel will come down and out of the way. This is model number MSD2757AEB?

I have to get to the defrost control board located in the top right corner of the frig section. I can get the front of the panel to drop down but the rear clips will not budge. Can anyone help me with proper tenderness? I tried brut force but I don't want to break the plastic.

Also for the heck of it since I am asking away. On this Maytag how many times am I suppose to click the light switch to force it into defrost? I know on the Frigidaire it is 5 times within 6 seconds. I do not know this Maytag.

Thanks guys and gals,

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Believe the defrost is jump "L1" and "Test" on the ADC board, perhaps one of the more Maytag-minded here can confirm?

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[user=13]Mad Mac[/user] wrote:

Believe the defrost is jump "L1" and "Test" on the ADC board, perhaps one of the more Maytag-minded here can confirm?

There must be a way to get the unit into a defrost without even getting to the board. I do believe its press the light switch "x" amount of times within "x" amount of seconds. As with Frigidaire.

But like I mentioned I can't even get the cosmetic plastic panel to come off the two clips in the top rear so I can get to that ADC board.

Thanks all,

GLC

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GLC,  those rear tabs are a bear,  it's a fight,  just have to deal with it.  Once you get one side out the other will be easier.   Mad Mac is right on with the defrost...L1 to test is how you put it in defrost...Ron

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thank you all. Seems strange to have to go through getting to the ADC to force a defrost cycle.

Keep a note for any one that on the Frigidaire with ADC board you press the ref sec light switch 5 times in 6 sceonds and that takes it into a test defrost or out and back in compressor. This Maytag is a tough one without cracking plastic...I see it coming.

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Thak you all so very much for your help.

GLC

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Maytag did change the ADC test after 2003 to turning the cold control off and on 3 times within 6 seconds and leaving it in the on position

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Hey fatman  have you tried that method??

 

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[user=216]GuidofromCT[/user] wrote:

Hey fatman  have you tried that method??

 

HEY GUIDO, WHAT'S UP. NO I HAVN'T, BUT I THINK I MUST HAVE READ IT SOMEWHERE. BUT TELL ME, HAVE YOU?

 

 

 

GOT A GOODA PIZZA 

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no havn't,

but I cant find anything in Maytag lit that refers to that proceedure. I think if anything it would just short cycle the compressor. The only way Maytag says to force defrost is @ the board. The Amana refrig w/the controls on the door was the only exception to that and it worked like the frigidaire by cycling the light switch.

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All of you have been a great help.

Sop you know, I rush to get the part for the customer and they ask me to come back Monday to complete it. I guess because I melted all the frost while I was there and gave them a couple of days cooling and they don't feel rushed or something. Who knows. Somethings never change (people) and the darn appliances never stop changing. :P

Do any of you know the new style GE with the circuit board on the back behind that panel? Does any one have any literature on that one that can help me. There are 3 wires now on the evap motor and this board runs that as well as defrost. Also does any one know how to force this particular one into defrost?

I have no model number as I have yet to go out on one (only heard of them from others while in the parts house) but I would like to be a tiny bit prepared fior when I end up on one staring at me for the first time.

Thanks Again Every One.

GLC

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The best way to determine what has caused a non defrosting GE electronic control model is to first access the control board. Jump terminals line power to defrost, (J4 and J9). An amp probe should be placed on this jumper wire to determine current draw of the defrost circuit. A three amp draw is what is normal for this circuit. This will eliminate checking behind the evaporator cover to determine a defective heater or over temp device (defrost terminator). Note: This test is only to check the defrost cicuit. It does not initiate a defrost cycle. If the unit is in any other cycle than defrost, that cycle will continue to operate as well.

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Easy when you know what to do, huh?

Your are too kind :-)

I have had two people from the parts house tell me that they have run into this particualr refig and had no evap fan. They did not know how to test the fan cause of three wires they said. (as I said I have not run into one yet) Do you know how to test that evap motor from that board? Is there a way if when you arrive there is no evap motor working?

Great People - Great Site

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Will find it and post but if the fan has gone kapoot it has also taken out the main board and have to replace both..

If a fan or damper motor happens to short, the control board

could shut down the complete system until the shorted motor

component is removed from the circuit. This becomes a fairly easy

process of elimination by simply unplugging each DC motor component

until the refrigerator (compressor) starts running again. DC

motors cannot be reliably checked for continuity or for shorts with

a meter

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