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Kenmore Dryer Too Hot


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47 replies to this topic

#1 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 01:23 PM

I was doing laundry and everything was working fine.  Then...I pulled the dry clothes from the dryer and they were *very* hot and there was an orange glow inside the drum coming from the back of the dryer.  I unplugged the dryer and glow went out.  I let it cool down, plugged it back in, and tried to start the dryer for the next load, it glowed orange again, but wouldn't tumble.

I searched on this WONDERFUL (by the way) site and discovered it probably needed a new thermofuse.  I pulled that and the thermostat (which looked like it had gotten too hot...had a place on it where it looked like the metal had been burned) and took it to the appliance parts store.  They tested them with the ohm meter and they were both bad. 

I replaced the thermofuse, thermostat  and the dryer vent hose.  I vacuumed it out, because it had gotten REAL "lint-y" since the old dryer vent hose had come off, and was testing it out to see if it was ok to use. 

I turned it on for less than 1 minute and the outside of the dryer got REAL hot.  Like the hood of a car on a 100 degree day.  This can't be right and I don't want to mess up the parts I just replaced.  Do you have any suggestions?  Thanks in advance for your help!


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#2 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 01:28 PM

Sounds like your heating element has grounded itself to the dryer, and will never shut off till you turn the dryer off or unplug it.   UNPLUG THIS DRYER NOW, because if this has happened the whole dryer is getting 240 volts fed to it, case and all...
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#3 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 03:55 PM

Thanks for the QUICK safety tip.  Dryer is unplugged. 

Is there a way I can "unground" the heating element?


#4 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:03 PM

usually the element broke and one end is touching the canister or the bracket, you will have to look at the element to see if the coil is touching something.  would need model number to see where it is located for sure but sounds like it is on the back.  remove the rear panel and the element is on th right side inside the silver canister

 

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#5 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:21 PM

We just replaced the heating element 2 years ago, but I guess it could have broken (especially if it was overheating b/c of excessive lint?).  Model number is 110.76975140 Kenmore Electric Dryer.

Is the canister w/heating element in it long and skinny?


#6 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:39 PM

Yes, if you did not remove the canister to replace the element the bracket would have bent putting the element in.  Be sure to remove the canister from the dryer to replace the element.
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#7 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:42 PM

Okee.  Will try to do that tomorrow.  Thanks for your help so far!  Will let you know what happens.

#8 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 05:48 PM

Something metal could have also gotten into the canister and is touching the element like a bobby pin or something, thru the air holes in the drum.
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#9 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 06:06 PM

I'll look for that.  It's quite possible some foreign metal object is in there.  When I cleaned out the inside of the dryer, I found $0.94, several paper clips, a key chain, a pencil, a small toy, two buttons, and a gold bracelet!  I bought the dryer used, and the bracelet must have belonged to the previous owner.

#10 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 06:07 PM

Do you have information on how to remove the canister?

#11 Pegi

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 07:01 PM

There is a clip at the top of the canister that attaches to  the plenum with a screw.  Remove the screw and clip, pull the top of the canister toward you about an inch then lift it up off of the 2 L brackets.  Then flip it over onto your lap, remove the screw holding the element in the canister and slide it out and take a look at it.  When putting it back in, there are 2 slots on the canister that go onto the 2 L brackets, then be sure to push the whole assy back into the recess of the back panel.  Be sure to reattach the clip or the canister will fall back and all of the heat will to up into the console, melting all of the wires.   Now, that would not be a pretty sight.......;)
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#12 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 03 June 2005 - 07:04 PM

Wow, you're full of helpful information! 

What/where is a plenum?  Do you have a picture?


#13 Pegi

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 05:11 AM

That is the panel the drum rotates around inside of the dryer and the same metal panel all of the goodies mount to on the back of the dryer after the rear metal cover is removed.
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#14 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 03:40 PM

I removed the canister and heating element.  Inside I found that two sections of the heating element (curly wire) were bent and touching other sections of the element.  Would that be a probable cause for something metal inside the canister touching something it was not supposed to...making it run extra hot? 

Do you have a wiring schematic?  There are two red wires coming off the heating element.  One is connected to a 2nd red wire attached w/a plastic cap and leading to the other wires that are inside the dryer.  The 3rd red wire--the 2nd one coming off the heating element is exposed.  There is a 4th red wire w/a plastic cap on the end of it.  There are no other wires attached to this 2nd plastic cap (wire nut).  Should the exposed red wire be attached to the 4th red wire?

I'm concerned about some bubbles on the outside of one of the red wires.  Sounds like it got too hot?


#15 GLC

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 03:54 PM

I think a lot of people have taken a weekend to spend with their families. As you know everyone does this for free just to help everyone that they can.
So be patient if you dont receive a quick reply.
I can tell you what I know on this but Pegi will know much more.
From what you just described the elemnet is bad and needs to be replaced. Yes that will cause it to get too hot too.
The terminals on the element are a tiny bit larger than the ones that will go to the thermostats. So look closely at them and they can and should only go one way. Take your time , put on your glasses and you will see the difference is size of the terminals.

Remember that you are dealing with 240 volts so be very careful as to what you are doing.

Pegi will be back soon.


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#16 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 05:49 PM

[user=1091]DonnaDoula[/user] wrote:

I removed the canister and heating element.  Inside I found that two sections of the heating element (curly wire) were bent and touching other sections of the element.  Would that be a probable cause for something metal inside the canister touching something it was not supposed to...making it run extra hot? 


 

Sounds like Pegi led you to the problem.  You need to replace the heating element assembly

Posted Image


 

Do you have a wiring schematic?  There are two red wires coming off the heating element.  One is connected to a 2nd red wire attached w/a plastic cap and leading to the other wires that are inside the dryer.  The 3rd red wire--the 2nd one coming off the heating element is exposed.  There is a 4th red wire w/a plastic cap on the end of it.  There are no other wires attached to this 2nd plastic cap (wire nut).  Should the exposed red wire be attached to the 4th red wire?

YOU have the schematic. It's in your dryer.  Do you know how to read it?  You shouldn't need it as long as you're careful to mark what wires go where. 

 

I'm concerned about some bubbles on the outside of one of the red wires.  Sounds like it got too hot?

You should cut this wire back to a good part and splice in good wires as needed.  If you don't know how to do this, there are numerous books available on home wiring, even DVDs that can help you.

http://fixitnow.com/...-secrets-of.htm


#17 Pegi

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 06:21 PM

Well, back after diving for cover what with the toronado warning...:shock:  Anyway, the broken curly coils were touching somehing they should not have before you pulled it out of that canister, either the canister or the bracket it was strung in.  If you did not remove the canister 2 years ago, this caused this problem now.  Your element was causing the heat to never shut off, all of your safeties were by-passed, a very dangerous situation.  You are lucky this dryer did not catch on fire.  Replace the element and the damaged wiring and you will be good to go.  The Samuari showed you what you need to order here....;)
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#18 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 06:24 PM

Hey, Pegi, glad to see you cheated death another time!  :bananadance:

#19 Lurker_DonnaDoula_*

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 06:39 PM

Hi Pegi!  Glad you're safe.  We're dodging tornadoes tonight here, too.

Sorry for the confusion.  I must have been writing my response when you wrote yours, b/c I didn't see it until after I posted mine. 

You said, "the broken curly coils were touching somehing they should not have before you pulled it out of that canister, either the canister or the bracket it was strung in. "  Would it touching itself do the same thing? 

Would my straightening them out make it ok to use? 

You said, "If you did not remove the canister 2 years ago, this caused this problem now.  "  My (now) ex-husband replaced it.  I'm sure he must have removed the canister to put the heating element in it.  I don't see how he could have done it otherwise.  But that's the reason *I* did not know how to remove the canister. 

Thanks again for your help!


#20 GLC

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 06:45 PM

I very easily straightened out the curly wire on the heating element so that none of the sections are touching any of the other sections. It looks nice and straight like the one in the picture. Is it ok to still use?

NO - DO NOT USE THIS ELEMENT. Many things I would say okay what the heck give it a shot. But not this. Its has been stretched out and this being bad is far worse than say just a belt or something. FIRE!!! You already have it disassmembled and ready to go. A couple of clicks right here, Order it from here....done! Have it in a day or two and do this right so the chance of the entire dryer burning up is ommited.
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