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Pumpkinhead

Frosty Freezer - Jenn-air causes despair

31 posts in this topic

For the past week I’ve been keeping my fridge stuff in the freezer side of my Jenn-air JSD2588AE side by side. The freezer temp has maintained 38 but the fridge side is way too warm.

I’ve read a bit here so thought I’d pop the panel off the back of the freezer for a look. What I found was a LOT of ice and frost, which was much more than I expected.

I’ve left it to thaw but am wondering if there is any hope for this fridge. Will the wires and whatever else is under there be damaged?

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!

Thanks,

Connie

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Allowing it to thaw will not cause any damage to the wires or anything. Just dump the drain pan every once in a while to keep water from over flowing onto your floor. The unit will cool again for about 3 days then it will be clogged up with frost again, until you find which of the three self defrost parts have gone bad, and replaced it. DO NOT use a screw driver to poke around in there. You could VERY easily puncture a hole in the aluminum tubing. Just let it melt or use a hair dryer to spedd it up. But no poking.

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use a hairdryer to defrost it,and order up an adaptive defrost board available through this site

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If the ice is powdery/fluffy, check to make sure the door seal is ok and that there was nothing that was keeping the door unnoticably ajar, allowing air in and causing the evaporater to choke. Try to find the position of the defrost timer, this is what activates the elements in the FC.  Turn the dial slowly until you hear a click( if it clicks as you turn it listen for the loudest click) and switch the fridge back on.  One of two things should happen, if the timer is in the right position, either the ice will start to melt as the elements have been switched on, which means the timer is faulty, or the timer will start to tick/run and about 20 mins later the fridge will turn back on, this indicates the problem is in eiter the element or the defrost thermostat.  Alternatively the fridge could have an electronic defrost timer which makes thing a bit harder.  If the element doesnt come on the hair dryer trick works great,  try this and let us know what happens.

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[user=637]kdog[/user] wrote:

use a hairdryer to defrost it,and order up an adaptive defrost board available through this site

Yes sir, this is the one to get from this site, if you have tested and determined to make sure this is what is malfunctioning. item number 948430. I see from the photo that you have the rear panel off. When you can get to the two wires connected to the heater use your meter and teast the heater for continuity. If you get a "good" reading then the heater is NOT your problem. You are now down to two possibilities. The ADC (defrost board as mentioned or the defrost Terminator (thermostat). Do the same test on the two wires that come from the defrost thermostat. Mkae sure that the defrost thermostat is still in the frost. Just get to the ends of the wires to test. Remember this part must be cold to test for continuity. AND remember to UNPLUG your refrigerator from the power souce when doing these tests.

Let us know.

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ok, I've spent the last 30 minutes with my hair dryer and head in the freezer. My kids think it's funny.

It was solid ice so I thought I'd check out the defrost timer but don't know where to look.

I'd like to empty the drain tray but don't know how to get to it.

It all sounds so easy but...(I have never fixed anything electrical in my life) Usually a dab of glue does the trick.

I'll go look around some more.

Thanks for the feedback.

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do you have a meter to check continuity?

Remember that your refrigerator model number says that you have the ADC (board). On this one there is nothing to turn like metioned about the older style one. Since you aready have the back off do what I suggested above. If those two parts test good then you have eliminated those and buy yourself a new Defrost Control from this site.

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;)

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[user=950]GLC[/user] wrote:

do you have a meter to check continuity?

Remember that your refrigerator model number says that you have the ADC (board). On this one there is nothing to turn like metioned about the older style one. Since you aready have the back off do what I suggested above. If those two parts test good then you have eliminated those and buy yourself a new Defrost Control from this site.

lol. ok, I'll stop looking for that dial now!

Now that the freezer is unfrozen, I see another problem. It's all yellow and cracked (melted?) It looks a hundred years old but it's only 4! Can you make anything of that?

I'll do those tests later tonight since you said their should be frost I'll have to plug it in for a while (and look for the meter)

thanks :)

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No-No you just want to have the defrost terminator (the disk butoon shaped object with two wires coming off of it satisfied (cold) to do a proper test. For a continuity check on the heater it does not matter. You can check that now.

Do you have an AMP meter?

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Here's the part you need (click the picture):

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Let us hope you did not do that damage with your hair dryer???  If not I would be calling the Jenn-Air people for a new frig.!!!  That liner will not be replaceable and you will have water in the insulation.  You need to demand a new frig....

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i have seen this happen to many of these units,somehow the defrost board causes the element to melt through the divider- call maytag as they have provided some sort of adjustment for all of the duds tat we have dealt with up here.

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The heater and defrost thermostat are both good and I tried to order the ADC board. Will they ship to Canada?

I'll contact the Maytag gang but I don't really have much faith that they will do anything.

I lost my love for this fridge a long time ago and will be buying another (if ever I figure out what to buy) but would like to keep this for a second fridge. Seems like a waste to just trash it.

Thank you all for your help :)

Connie

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My complements on the work and pictures you have done. You did a first rate job. It is clear from the picture that the defrost heater has stayed on WAY too long and caused unrepairable damage to the machine. I would try to get something, meaning money, out of the manufacturer, you spent a lot of money on this.

Nick

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I am pretty sure they will ship it to your front door in Canada. Just assk Mr know it all, Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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i agree with nick,don't back down!!  even if you weren't all that happy with the fridge and you look at this as an opportunity toget something you like(not a g.e.)- you deserve to have at least some sort of adjustment.

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Since this is a known issue, send them this photo and demand they do something about this crap. Is odd they did not notify the people who bought these melt down specials about this problem, just kept it quiet.  This is what really jacks my jaws.  People pay good money for this hi-end stuff and they just take your money and let a known issue slide.......Demand a new ref. at no charge. :soapbox:

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but if you do that,unfortunatey you'll end up with more of the same.

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Good point, demand a refund or a different brand that is made by Maytag...

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i believe pegi meant to say "a brand NOT made by maytag"

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Would have said that but do not believe they will give another frig in excahnge for this piece of junk unless it is a Maytag brand.......:(  If they give $$$$$  go and get you a nice Whirlpool...

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Seems the problem is in both the ADC board and the defrost terminator.  The ADC board got stuck in defrost mode but the terminator failed to do its job and interrupt the power to the defrost heater; defrost terminator must be stuck closed.  A fun science project would be to remove the terminator, heat it slowly in an electric skillet while monitoring the continuity to see at what temp the defrost terminator finally opens, if indeed it opens at all.

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;)   And I thought Jenn-Air was one of the top quality brands out there.  Seems everything is falling to junk anymore.....:X

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 have a Jenn Air JCD2389DEQ that had the same problem last October & found out too late it was not under warranty. 209.00 later (55.00  part 61005988 or 5908, 150.00 labor-including using a hair dryer to defrost the freezer coils behind the panel) my refrigerator was again working. Now tonight I find the same problem again. I took apart the freezer back inside panel and lo and behold it is all frosted up again. So I am now using a hair dryer to defrost it to see if that solves the problem. If it does then tomorrow I will go to my local Maytag dealer with invoice in hand and ask for another of these parts.

:X

In addition to this on the inside of the refrigerator door the moldings that are used to hold the door trays in place are warping to the outside and the trays are loose. One has already come out when the door was opened.

:X

Has anyone else encountered these problems and if so have you found any relief from Maytag for what is obviously poor moldings and defrost controllers or whatever they are called?

I had a first generation Maytag refrigerator and had some real problems with it in the door seals geting hot to the touch from what turned out to be a bad compressor, but Maycor fought me for 6 months befre they replaced the refrigerator, first blaming me for not vaccuuming the dog hair underneath on a daily basis:shock:. It took several letters to the Newton HQ and 3 visits from Maycor managers before they agred to replace  it.  I hope they are more responsive this time or it will be my last Maytag product :poison:

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