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Oven Sensor


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10 replies to this topic

#1 jkHilary

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 01:36 PM

Kenmore (Roper) range/oven Model # 911.95875790

We have an F4 error on our oven...new house...old appliance...no manuals.  We purchased the correct part....replaced it and STILL have the F4 error!!  Looked online for 'common mistakes' when replacing this part....have not had any luck.  Any suggestions would be welcome!!!

Thanks....JK

(Hopefully I posted correctly!! If not.....I may just have to contribute to the beer fund!!!)


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#2 GLC

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 01:48 PM

when you say that you purchased the correct part just to check what part did they send you? Also when you hooked it up did you use the new wire and new quick disconnect or did you cut and splice it in? You could have a bad spot in the old wire itslef so its best to replace the entire length and quick dinconnect to be safe.
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#3 jkHilary

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 01:54 PM

I ordered a new oven sensor and replaced it.  I followed the directions that came with it and cut the quick connect off and spliced the wires together.  I DID NOT Replace the wires from the sensor to the quick connect that is located behind the control panel.  I have no idea how to do that because there are 2 other wires coming into the same quick disconnect on the panel.  JK

#4 GLC

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 02:05 PM

try this check

http://groups.msn.co...oto&PhotoID=176

At normal room temp your reading should be about 1050-1100 OHMS.
This will tell you if the sensor itself is bad. Or you then know to go and double check wiring or another cause.

Samurai Quote
"Oven sensors sense the temperature in the oven cavity by increasing their internal resistance, measured in ohms, as the oven's temperature increases. This change in ohm resistance tells the ERC the oven cavity temperature and it turns the heating elements or burner on and off, as needed. Now, hang with me, grasshopper, 'cuz we're getting to the good part.

At room temperature, 70°F, the resistance of the most common sensors used today is 1000-1100 ohms. What this means is that if you pull those sensor wires to measure the sensor's resistance and it reads slap-a$$ open, why, it don't take a rocket scientist like myself to figger out that you got yourself a bad sensor! Wasn't that easy?"
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#5 jkHilary

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 02:19 PM

Thanks-  Unfortunately I do not have an OHM tester.  Would it be benificial for me to order a new wiring harness or just call a repare man?  JK

#6 GLC

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 02:27 PM

[user=1114]jkHilary[/user] wrote:

Thanks- Unfortunately I do not have an OHM tester. Would it be benificial for me to order a new wiring harness or just call a repare man? JK

Hang on for a little bit and lets get some one elses advice before you do anything else okay?
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#7 jkHilary

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 02:40 PM

Sounds good.... Thanks JK

#8 Pegi

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Posted 04 June 2005 - 03:51 PM





[align=left]F4[/align]

[align=left]Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit[/align]

[align=left]Verify the oven temperature sensor wiring harness is OK, if so, replace the oven temperature sensor.[/align]
Sounds like you correctly read the problem, now you need to see if you are actually getting power to this sensor.  You will need test interments, or someone who has these.  If your harmess is ok, and still get the F4 code, you might want to consider having a professional take a look at this oven..

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#9 jkHilary

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 11:03 AM

Thank you for all of your help!!!! One more QUESTION regarding this whole oven thing.  I called an appliance repair guy and told him what was going on w/ the oven sensor and taht we installed it and it's still not working.  Here is what he said....and I would APPRECIATE input because I don't want to get 'suckered' into something.

After telling him what was wrong with it, he said that I needed to order a new computer part for the oven.  My thoughts were that the clock is working and all of the parts are registering (w/ the exception of the oven actually turning one)....but the temp comes up....it just won't 'start' when you push start.  Anyways.....without him coming to even look at it he wants to order the $135 part!!!  He said that once it's ordered there is not turning back, so that disturbs me. 

I feel a little naive because #1....oven repair is not my forte #2....It seems to me that one would look at the appliance before ordering that expensive of a part.

 

Advice????

Thanks....The K of JK....:)


#10 Pegi

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 11:14 AM

You are correct in every aspect of your thinking.  Remember if you order it here from the Samuari and it does not solve the problem it can be returned less the freight for a full refund.  Sounds gooder that the appliance guy huh???   But remember parts like that cannot normally be returned once ordered or installed.  So you local appliance guy is correct on that and he might have seen this before and is sure it will repair the problem, however I would think he would want to check the range first, like you, that is the part that bothers me.  Get the board from the Samuari and how can you go wrong???  Get it here  

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#11 jkHilary

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 02:16 PM

Thanks-  I will get a second opinion.  I'm turned off by the fact that he jumped straight to the most expensive part and never mentioned the wiring harness.  JK




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