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Kenmore/Whirpool washer motor coupling breaks again

9 posts in this topic

Three weeks ago I replaced the motor coupling on a 10 y.o. direct drive Kenmore 90 series washer. Back then, I was getting no spin or agitate, but the rubber part of the coupling looked good (compared to the last time it went out about 5 years ago when it was all chewed up), so I kept on taking things apart using the directions here and on another forum. At that time, the tub or agitator would not turn by hand, I thought the brake was on. It turned out to be the back of the white plastic part of the coupling atttached to the transmission had been rounded out, no longer having the oval shape that keeps it snug on the shaft. Replaced the coupling, put everything back together, things were working fine until yesterday when I found a load of towels soaking wet at the end of the (fast/fast) cycle. It was towels that were the victim of the last motor coupling break, so I had been putting a few less in to keep the load lighter.

I took the agitator off to see if I was getting any spin off the shaft, but nothing, which makes me think its the motor coupling again. Putting the agitator back on, it was stuck like the last time but I was able to turn it freely after a little resistance let go.

My question to you experts out there is: What else should be looked at/replaced that might be causing the coupling to burn out so fast? I had taken the shaft down but not fully out the last time, saw but don't fully understand the brake/clutch mechanism, so how exactly to determine if one of those is part of the problem? Don't really want to try messing with the transmission as I promised the wife if it was anything beyond a quick fix I would call in the calvary. Could using the fast/fast cycle contribute to the demise of the coupler? Should I drop down to 1/2 to 3/4 loads of towels?

Maybe it's time to go washer shopping, replacing the coupler would buy me a week or two of shopping time, if so, what brand/model out there should I consider or avoid?

Thanks for all of your help!

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Heavy load may well be contributing to this - I'd also have a look at the four rubber grommets that the motor fits on to. If these are worn you will get excessive vibration which will also fail the coupler prematurely.

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was the coupler an original FSP/whirlpool part(#285753...clear bag red writing).  that kind of striping usually happens with the AFTERMARKET ones......as the mad one stated heavy loads and excessive vibration will cause a coupler to break.........good luck.........

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The grommets looked good, no signs of shredding, fit snug on the posts.

The same white part of the coupler on the transmission side was rounded out, even worse than the previous one from 5 years ago.

The replacement was not OEM, was made by Supco part LP337. I didn't think to ask for a genuine whirlpool part cause I didn't think it mattered. Now I know better.

Any other things to look for before I put it back together?

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Surprised that generic one lasted 3 weeks....;)

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I believe Whirlpool has now started putting a metal insert in there - I never used to see that centre piece strip when I was doing these, but we've seen reports of the non-OEM ones doing just this.

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Thanks for the recommendations on using the brand name parts. I don't think my local appliance parts dealer stocks Whirlpool original parts, so I googled "whirlpool 285753" to find a place online to buy. (I first clicked the link below to RepairClinic, but it didn't seem to specify the brand). Anyway, the second hit that google returned was to a different repair site whose owner has the same first name as I. On his site, he has a link to a tip of his about putting some high temp silicone grease made for auto brake calipers on the inside of the brake drum to prevent sudden deceleration of the tub. I'd say my tub stops pretty suddenly, but not having another washer around to compare it to, how quickly or slowly should a tub come to a stop? Is this grease idea a good one?

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Here is the part from repair clinic - http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2855 I believe they sell genuine Whirlpool FSP components.

 As for the braking I am sure you will get differing opinions on what to use if anything but the basket should come to a gradual stop, if it is hammering the cabinet then cleaning the brake surfaces would be a good start. Some Maytag washers recommend lubricating the brake pads - for what it is worth

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We used to squirt a very light film of sewing machine oil into the brake drum, smoothed the stop out very nicely.

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