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Washer Fills but does not run


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10 replies to this topic

#1 itlrun2

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Posted 06 June 2005 - 04:39 AM

Washer fills with water but does not not run. Turn the dial to all settings nothing. Thanks

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#2 Ron

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Posted 06 June 2005 - 05:35 AM

Itlrun2,   This might be your lid switch giving you the problem,  get a small  screw-driver and push it in a little and see if you get any action...Ron

#3 itlrun2

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Posted 06 June 2005 - 07:06 AM

Let me check  Ron

#4 itlrun2

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Posted 06 June 2005 - 07:15 AM

Ron Ii took the lid off...pushed the switch  in with a screwdriver........It clicks but nothing happens

#5 itlrun2

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Posted 06 June 2005 - 07:17 AM

Once in a whiel the dial will work it will hummmmmm   then shut off then u have to wait for 5 hrs then try it again. But as of yesterday nothing at all

#6 itlrun2

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Posted 06 June 2005 - 07:31 AM

Ron I got it to work the switch is really loose inside..I dont know if thats the problem or the dial I'll recheck it tonight I have to go to work...I'll let you know ....

#7 itlrun2

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Posted 14 June 2005 - 05:32 AM

Ron I just replaced the Lid switch i still have the same problem it fills with water then stops. Turning the Dial on all phases nothing happens...which is the next step thanks

#8 itlrun2

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Posted 14 June 2005 - 06:50 PM

Ron I changed the switch still nothing

#9 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 02:53 AM

Your motor is overheating and kicking out.  Verify with your meter.  Buy a new one here:

http://www.repaircli....asp?R=154&P=53


#10 Pegi

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Posted 15 June 2005 - 09:57 AM

If the washer is dead you could have a bad fill level switch, bad timer or wiring harness to the motor. If you hear a humming you could have something in your pump jamming the motor, the transmission could be locked up jamming the motor, you could have a bad motor.  You will have to trace this down piece by piece.
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#11 hmiBarryLSalter

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Posted 31 July 2006 - 11:52 PM

Dear Forum,

The problem that Ron discribed (press the switch with a screw driver and the machine runs) is exactly my issue.  Do I need to replace the switch? or the plastic piece on the door? or is there an adjustment to be made?

If I need to replace the switch, is there a post to the instructions on how to do this in the forum?

(ps. expect a couple bucks in the beer fund, this forum has been a great help so far)

Barry L. Salter

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UPDATE: being that no one has answered (and having a wife like the other guy) I ran out and bought the switch and plastic piece that pushes on the switch ($20 and $.69 respectively).  While buying the switch (and small talk) I learned that Maytag has made changes to my switch to correct what seems to be a faulty design that frequently fails.  The kit (switch) came with switch, push rod and instruction for replacing the old switch and push rod (as oposed to only the switch or rod seperatly).  I will update this post tomarrow once I have installed the parts incase this helps someone else... 

 2nd UPDATE: After reading the instructions, I discover listed that the plastic hing (a plastic axel pointing off a clip in corner plate of the lid, there are two of course) can wear down causing the gap and/or the plastic sleaves that pop in the corners that these axels ride on can wear or break (as in my case one broke) and could actually be the reason my "atlantis" switch wouldn't function.  To resolve this issue for the moment, I pulled out both plugs and revered sides on them (the left to the right and right to the left hole) and they are working fine this way now.

All I can say is, thank You Mr Samurai for putting up this forum, I will be paypalling some money over as a thanks (I know the forum software alone cost you $100 plus hosting so it's only fair to give after taking something from it) Thank You!!!!


Barry L. Salter
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Bed Post Notches:
1) Atlantis Washer, plastic piece and switch about $22.
2) Roper Refrigerator defective start device $37




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