17 replies to this topic

[Miles1996]

Hi Samurai,

I have a KitchenAid KUDM24SEWH5 built in dishwasher.

It appears that the dishwasher is taking the food and gunk off of the dishes, but it is not removing it all from the dishwasher, as there are flecks and specks on the dishes when the dishes are removed from the dishwasher. It is on the outside and inside, of the bowls and glasses, both sides of the plates, etc.  There is not a huge amount, but enough that it is annoying.  After the dry cycle, the flecks get baked on.  Sometimes it is easy enough to brush them off, but sometimes the baking has glued them securely and it takes some soaking to remove it.

I have done the following:

Checked to water level during the pre-wash, wash and rinse cycles.  It comes up so that it is just under the heating element.

Checked to make sure that the detergent dispenser door is opening.

Checked to make sure that the water is draining after each cycle.

Made sure that we are using good detergent instead of a generic brand, and using rinse-aid.  The rinse aid dispenser it filled and works.

Checked the spray arms for plugged holes.

Checked the filter to make sure it was intact.

Checked to make sure that the washer goes through each of its cycles. I was thinking that perhaps it was skipping the rinse cycle, but it does go through it.

Any more ideas? I think that the dishes are gettign washed, but dirt and debris appear to be getting put back on th dishes.

Help!!

[Samurai Appliance Repair Man]

You've certainly done your homework, good report! 

We're pretty much down to a worn wash impeller.  One way to check is to place a glass in the upper rack right side up and let the dishwasher wash for 60 seconds.  Then open the door and check the water level.  Should be full.  If much below that, then chances are pretty good that you have a worn wash impeller.  Note that this test is indicative but not conclusive, it is used in combination with other metrics to qualitatively evaluate pump impeller efficiency.

[denrayr]

check the lower spray arm upper bearing for wear. also check the upper rack spray arm tube for cracks.

[edwardh1]

does this washer have one of those piston and check valve thingy that lets the junk out in the bottom back??

Mine was bad on a GE

[Miles1996]

I did the upright glass test.  Passed with flying colours.

I had checked the spray arms previously.

What is this check valve you speak of?  That may be the problem.

The dishes are getting cleaned, so the water and the spray are fine.  However, the gunk that comes off of the dishes, apparantly is not being removed from the dishwasher when the water drains out.  Would this check valve be restricting the draining water from carrying the debris out of the washer?  Are there any other reasons that some of the gunk stays in the dishwasher to be redeposited on my dishes?  And even if it is still in the washer, how does it get sprayed back up to the top rack. Isn't the filter supposes to keep the debris out of the pump?

Thanks for all the responses so far.

[mopar X]

Are they a white powder fleck getting back on glasses etc.Are you using a powder detergent? if so pour some in your hand and see if it is clumping up and if it is get some new detergent

[ronz28]

Drainage system

I had a similar problem with a GE model GSD 1150.  At the end of the cycle, all was dry but there was soap residue on the dishes.  I listened to it and open the dishwasher to check the water level and figured out sometimes it wouldn't drain and sometimes it would drain the water out as it was filling up so hardly any water remained for washing dishes.  I found the problem to be in the water drainage system.  In the back of the dishwasher there is a long plastic piece held in place with 4 screws.  There are two screens in the middle of this piece to filter water.  Remove this piece and under it you will find a round plastic piece that unscrews by hand and contains a 3 inch plastic piston with a rubber stopper in the middle of the piston.  This stopper deteriorates over the years and prevents the dishwasher from adequately draining.  This part is called a nut and piston by GE and I bought one for about $10 dollars at the local appliance supply house.  Hand turned the new part and the dishwasher works like a new machine.  The whole replacement job takes about 10 minutes (after you figure out the problem). 

[Miles1996]

It isn't white powder, but rather, sand-like grit on top of upside down glasses, and food particles baked onto any surface of the dried dishes. For instance a small (1/4" x 1/4" or alternatively 6 mm x 6mm) piece of dried lettuce will be clinging to the outside of a bowl.

I will check the detergent, but we have switched from a generic brand, to a a name brand (Cascade, I believe).

[edwardh1]

if there is a filter screen in your DW at the bottom back take it out and seee if there is junk in there and if it has a piston and check valve assembly

[Miles1996]

Thanks for the reply Edward.

My filter is directly over the pump. As shown in the attachment.  I believe that this filter screens the junk out of the water, before it reaches the pump inlet.  The way I understand it, when the DW is draining, the motor will turn backwards, cleaning off the filter, and then the water drains from the base, on the outside of the pump.

Is this equivalent to the filter that you were referring to?

P.S.  I've tried to attach a picture of my pump/filter assembly but am not sure it will work, if not try here:

http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1065408

[Budget Appliance Repair]

Miles1996, you have some well meaning novices trying to help you hear, but in the process they are just confussing you.

You are working on a KitchenAid DW - Built by Whirlpool. They are tring to direct you to a part in a G.E. machine, two different units completely different pump/motor units.

Can't help you with your original problem but disregaurd the info from "edwardh1" and "ronz28", it is just going to confuse the issue.

William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501

[edwardh1]

he s right my GE does not look at all like that

[denrayr]

99% of washability issues with this dishwasher that i have run into are either a worn lower spray arm upper bearing (very common) it is the white plastic piece under the thumbscrew. the next most common is the rubber extension piece on the upper rack splitting. either of these conditions will lower the water pressure during the wash cycle. resulting in the symptoms you describe.

[Miles1996]

Thanks for the info denrayr.

I have taken my lower spray assembly apart a few times. I know that I have the lower bearing (the one that is split), but I have never seen the upper bearing. I shall order it from the link below and will let you know how it turns out.

[elwico]

It seems that I have a similar problem as Miles1996 has. My DW (KUDM22OT) is leaving some food on, but I'm sure the problem is the "4-Way Hydro Sweep Wash Arm" below the lower tray is not rotating during the wash cycle. It doesn't change positions when I open the door to check. Also it doesn't rotate easily when I give it a spin. Bearing? Wash impeller? How the heck do I get the arms off to replace parts inside?

The manual (which I just printed out from the KitchenAid site) says to lift it straight up. That can't be. I'm sure I came close to breaking the darn thing. Can't see any screws, etc...to attack the problem.

Appreciate your thoughts.

[The Wizard Of Odds!]

In the first sentence written the dish washer was identified as a Kitchen Aid,thanks for catching this Willie.

[runningbear]

I have the same unit and have been fighting with this problem for over 3 years. (Very frustrated!) It leaves tiny particles of food behind, for days, from any particular wash. In fact, if you open the door after any fill, you’ll see food particles floating in the water.

I've checked everthing mentioned above. Also, I do have both the lower split bearing and the upper, shown in the image above. Could either bearing be worn? I guess, but I’m not sure how I tell? Also, I very often find the split bearing separated and fallen below the lower arm? Shouldn’t the bearing always be up and inside the lower spray arm?

I’ve tried many times to disassemble the unit to do a visual inspection of the various pumps and parts for plugs and worn parts but also can not figure out how to get past the removal of the first cap.

I think there is some backwash process that is no longer functioning at full ability. Maybe due to pump pressure, maybe a crack or maybe clog? (please help)

[Miles1996]

Runningbear,

I haven't eliminated the problem, but I have alleviated it. I replaced the upper bearing, but I am not sure it made much of a difference. It was there, but the flange had worn so that it was about as thick as a piece of paper.

The larger factor, I believe, was that I suggested to my wife that we only load it up about 3/4 to what we used to load it. This allows better spray circulation. It isn't perfect, but the results are alot better.

Hope this helps.

Miles