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TimLa

Neptune Dryer MDE4000AYQ Timer Not Advancing/Won't Shut Off

15 posts in this topic

Most generous giver of wisdom. My broken Neptune dryer which matches my broken Netpune washer is broken. Did I mention that it's broken and it doesn't work...cause my wife lets me know it. The timer doesn't advance, I've tried all combination of dryer settings and no change. This would be fine if it were in a laundermat or I wanted to use it as an ineffieicient house heater but I just want it to dry my clothes...and then turn off.

Last of the great ones, please provide me with a solution that a simple man with a multi-meter and a dislike for Maytag can perform.

Tim

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Hi Neighbor..close to me.  Sorry I do not know about these Neptunes from Hell but someone who does should be here shortly .  We do work on the L.G. dryers and if it will not shut off and keeps running it is the thermister, but would get to about 6 minutes and run till after the cows came home and left again.   But I read yours will  not advance at all????  Help should be here soon...;)

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Open the control console and test the continuity of the timer motor.  If that check good, then check to see if it's getting 120v during the cycle.  If not, then we'll need to troubleshoot back and see where we'[re losing the voltage. Your wiring diagram is inside the console, post it here or fax it to me, 775-416-4449.

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these units have 2 red led's on the console that tell you what the moisture sensor is seeing- when you are in a heating cycle with wet clothes in it,the lower red light should be lit constantly and the upper red light should appear to blink as the wet clothes short out the sensor bars- is this indeed happening???

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i have the same problem with my maytag peice of crap. when it is drying the clothes the timer will not advance at all and for me the lights in the moisture does stay solid and the bottom sensor one does blink when moisture is detected. the dryer will run for ever until i physically get up and turn it off. glad i paid extra for the automatic shut off feature..please help me.....

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what is the model number of your unit,better yet- post a new thread as it is less confusing for others

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Reply to TimLa..

I am going on the assumption that the timer does not advance in any cycle including time dry. You would want to set your timer on 50 minutes time dry and get a Volt/Ohm meter. You will be doing voltage cks here so set your meter on 120vac or equivalent scale. With the unit running, take a voltage check at the timer motor leads,  Brown to Gray. If you have 120VAC and your timer does not advance, bad timer, done, your the hero. If you do not have 120VAC here, go Gray to Chassis Ground checking for voltage. IF you have 120VAC that means you have lost your neutral and we would want to go to your dryness display board. First pull off the Molex and look at the connections. Concentrate on the white and brown wires. Make sure the little part of the connector that actually makes contact with the metal trace of the board is down and not bent. Each groove in the board from these connections should be about the same, it either one is lighter or not as deep, that would be your loose connection. If all appears fine, put the molex back on and start the unit. Do a voltage check at this board from white to brown with the molex on and the unit running. If you have 120VAC, either you do have a loose connection or your board is bad. If you can not get your meter leads into the molex, you can go straight to the traces on the board that correspond to the Brown and White wires.       

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IT IS MODEL MDE4000AYW

NEPTUNE FRONTLOAD ELECTRIC.....

i will try your recommendation and post with the results.....hopefully i dont fry me or the dryer.....hehe..

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i am no wiz at this electrical stuff but i attempted your suggestion. there are 8 wires going into my timer (according to the sticker model m460-g)

brown - grey 0

grey - brown 116 (not 12VAC see your comment below)

molex white to brown 116

[user=4044]Trying to help[/user] wrote:

Reply to TimLa..

I am going on the assumption that the timer does not advance in any cycle including time dry. You would want to set your timer on 50 minutes time dry and get a Volt/Ohm meter. You will be doing voltage cks here so set your meter on 120vac or equivalent scale. With the unit running, take a voltage check at the timer motor leads, Brown to Gray. If you have 120VAC and your timer does not advance, bad timer, done, your the hero. If you do not have 120VAC here, go Gray to Chassis Ground checking for voltage. IF you have 12VAC that means you have lost your neutral and we would want to go to your dryness display board. First pull off the Molex and look at the connections. Concentrate on the white and brown wires. Make sure the little part of the connector that actually makes contact with the metal trace of the board is down and not bent. Each groove in the board from these connections should be about the same, it either one is lighter or not as deep, that would be your loose connection. If all appears fine, put the molex back on and start the unit. Do a voltage check at this board from white to brown with the molex on and the unit running. If you have 120VAC, either you do have a loose connection or your board is bad. If you can not get your meter leads into the molex, you can go straight to the traces on the board that correspond to the Brown and White wires.

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it seems like it is the board....is there a way to test the board, dont want to buy one and it be something else...already had to fix my washer, these appliances are more expensive after the warrenty runs out.

thanks for all your help

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I really had them up for the other post, but they should be viable for you as well looking at your  schematic. First, your unit does not advance in any cycle including time dry correct????????? If it does not, then the same tests will apply. The 12VAC was a typo and I have corrected it. 

  brown - gray 0 gray - brown 116 (not 12VAC see your comment below) TYPO, should of read 120VAC. If this test yields 120vac at the timer and it does not advance, bad timer.   

molex white to brown 116

Was this in time dry or intelli dry? It will make a big difference. If you were in time dry and you read 120vac across Brown to White at the board with the molex still plugged onto the board and unit running,  that means you are open which indicates either a bad board or loose connection on one wire or the other. Pull the molex off and look inside it. The actual connection is made from a finger like prong that goes down and scrapes against the metallic trace on the board    

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sorry i had'nt noticed that your reply was for timba....i got all excited when i see the quick post and thought it was for me...but i think that you are correct it does also apply to my problem.

i did also notice that i too had a typo it was brown to grey 0 and grey to chasis 116 (ish) while the unit is on and in timer mode. mine does have intelli dry but it was in timer mode. when the timer is off my molex brown white reading is 0 grey to chasis 0 brown to grey 0....

i did pull my molex off and everything seemed to look fine...i too have my schematic it was conveniently taped to the inside of my cover..that was nice of them to do that..

once again thanks for your time and patience....great help

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so i think i am ready to purchase my part....any recommendations i am going with your recommendation on getting the circuit board (part number 33002422) over the timer (part number 33001730) bet6kmn bvvg 8ujlkl,;;.hleive it or not best buy online was the cheapest i found ......i will keep you posted.....thanks

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Thats the beauty of a meter, schematic and the ability to use them. It is the difference between a technician and an Appliance Repairman NO GUESSING! If you have 120VAC from Brown to White on your board with the unit running in time dry, no loose connections on either the brown or white wire at the board, and no L1 potential on the Orange wire. You have a bad board.

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ordered the part....received in the mail. 39.99 plus shipping......worked like a charm....a million thank yous....it was the circuit board....great call....

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