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clothes dryer


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8 replies to this topic

#1 qxyz

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 12:44 PM

hi. i have a 220v. g.e. electric dryer i have replaced both of the round thermostats in the rear of the unit assuming that was the problem. and checked my breaker box. the dryer works perfectly except it no longer gets hot? i think the problem was i forgot to empty the lint trap and the air flow was stopped up. i figured it overheated and one of the two thermostats went bad so i replaced them both but still no heat? the heating coils and everything visually seems to be in good order.  the thermostat that has 4 posts (2 red wires/2purple) marked "heater" had juice when i check it with a meter, the small white plastic unit near it that looks like it is a type of thermometer or something that has two posts/red wires has juice, but the thermostat on the heating coil with 2 posts/red wires has no juice even though its new, although i dont know if it would show on the meter since it is not like the other thrmo with 4 wires, and the other small white plastic unit with two wires that is also near the heating coils shows no juice. i have only replaced the thrmos at this point not sure if i am suppose to change the small white plasitc things or if theyre bad or what else i should check???? thanks. MODEL NUMBER; wsm2420sezww     p.s.the old and the new thermostats when shaken all make a small noise like a burnt out light bulb, as if there were a small filament in there moving around, is this normal, just not sure how your suppose to know if a thermo is bad or not?

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#2 Pegi

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 01:04 PM

You have to test each part with an ohm meter with the dryer unplugged.  You also need to test the heating elements to see if they are good.  You will also need to see if you have 240 volts to the dryer outlet in the wall as one breaker could have tripped in the breaker box which would let the dryer run but not heat since the only item in this dryer that is 240 volts is the heating element.  This dryer will have two 30 amp breakers. Also make sure there are no wires burnt off of the terminal block where the cord atttaches to the dryer.
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#3 qxyz

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 01:34 PM

hi. breakers are good, no burnt wires, not sure how to check the heating element other than visually the coils look fine. cunfused about the unit unplugged method, did that and there is no juice any where when unplugged but isnt that how it should be?

#4 Pegi

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 05:14 AM

You are not checking for "juice" using this method.  We always advise anyone not in the business to un-plug any appliance and test the parts with an ohm meter, to see if each part tests good or bad.  This is for the safety of the appliance owner.  We would be lax to suggest doing this with the applince plugged in as we would loose a bunch of people out there. You are going to have to obtain an ohm meter and learn how to use it to test the parts on this dryer to keep from replacing parts that may or may not be defective and to see where the problem is.
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#5 qxyz

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 01:34 PM

hi, thanks again. well is there anyway to test it live? i actually installed the breaker box, the wall socket, and ran the lines for the unit etc etc so im comfortable around electricity. i have a voltage meter but not an ohm meter and its just one more thing i would have to go buy and if there was another way i could check it i would prefer that. i had mentioned before about juice coming through one thermostat and the small white plastic unit near it that looks like a temp gauge or something but none on the thermo and temp guage near the coils but i dont know if thats normal or not. and both thermo's are new. ???

#6 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 08:00 PM

This page explains:

http://fixitnow.com/...tion-making.htm


#7 qxyz

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 01:25 PM

ok, went to radio shack and got the meter. so the only part that doesnt seem to work via the meter is the small white plastic piece that seems to be a thermometer. i pulled it to get all the info off of it. it has numerous numbers etc.; it says- T-O-D MICROTEMP FSP on one side, the number 15 at the end of it, and the serial numbers; G5AP0500 then TF then D91C   and Ai1 and 3399849 on the other side. had to use a magnifiyng glass to get all that off of it. so i think/hope this is the piece that is bad, all the others test ok, but when testing that piece the meter is motionless.

#8 Mad Mac

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 02:29 PM

Posted Image

The humble thermal fuse, Whirlpool part number 3392519, a snip at less than $10. You can, of course, order the genuine GE part for about $23!
:yikes:

Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#9 qxyz

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 02:42 PM

just ordered it, much thanks!




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