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Loud Bang and Broken Coupler on Direct Drive Kenmore 110.92597200


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Fiftyfive

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 03:45 PM

Kenmore DIrect Drive Model Number 110.92597200

I was quite proud of myself last month when I replaced the motor coupling.  My wife bragged to her friends about how handy I was.  I admired the design of the new coupling which seemed so much more sturdy than the old design.   We had clean clothes again.  Everything was good in the world. :D

Now I can't get the story about the farmer who found the horse out of my mind.  Was it good fortune or not?

I quickly noticed that the loud bang, which I had mistaken for a symptom of the bad coupling, was still there.  I knew something needed to be fixed, but surely the sturdy new coupling would last for a while.  Wrong.  I found pieces of it under the washer which no longer works, of course.  The last thing we heard was a clicking grinding noise.

Everything seemed to work fine until each time the coupling broke.  I don't know exactly when the loud bang would ring out, but it seemed to be at the end of a cycle.

The washer is about 6 years old so no warranty!

Should I take the tub off to see what is hiding under there?

The motor is fine.  The pump is fine.  It fills ok.  The timer works.

 

 

 


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#2 kdog

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 07:12 PM

you wouldn't be the first grasshopper to crack one of the plastic fingers during installation. make sure the new one goes on straight,i use a 1/2 in deep socket on an extension bar and tap it straight and gently on to the shaft with the handle of a large screwdriver-  whatever works.
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#3 Fiftyfive

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 02:59 PM

It's possible that I broke the new coupler I guess, but I don't think that is the problem.  It wasn't very hard to replace the coupler so I don't know how I could have broken it.  Plus, the loud bang was happening before and after the coupling was replaced.  After the repair, the washer worked fine - except that the loud bang was still there. 

Is it possible that the tub or the transmission gets locked in place while the motor is continuing to spin freely as it shuts down the spin cycle? 

I started to take the transmission out but got stuck.  I was able to take the large nut off (using a ahammer and screwdriver).  But how can I take off the drive block if it is shielded by the tub?

 

Posted ImagePosted Image


#4 Fiftyfive

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 04:10 PM

Ok, I figured out how to get the inner tub out.  The drive block kindly fell free at the same time.  Please ignore my dumb question in my last post, but the loud band is still an issue, I think.

So far, everything else looks fine, but I have to study it for a while to see if I can figure it out.


#5 nickfixit

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 05:11 PM

You are likely in the early stages of gearcase failure. It's not  a hard repair, but the transmission is expensive

Nick

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#6 Fiftyfive

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 05:33 PM

The clutch and brake looked fine so gearcase failure may be the problem.

Maybe another coupling will get it running long enough to find a used transmission on Ebay.

I don't want to spend $150 on this thing, although it isn't very old.  I expect washers to last ten years.  This one is only 5, maybe 6 years old.


#7 Mad Mac

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 06:42 PM

This may well be the brake snatching and causing a sudden stop which puts a lot of stress on the coupler.

Posted Image


Here's how to cure it...on the picture, you see the blue arrow. That housing that the sound dampening ring goes round is the brake drum. Squirt A LITTLE LIGHT oil in there. Start and stop the spin a couple of times to distribute it around the drum. The stop will be much easier now.

Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#8 Fiftyfive

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 03:22 AM

Oiling the brakes isn't the approach I would normally take.  I'm glad this isn't an automotive repair forum.

BTW, the brake shoe on my machine is quite thin, probably a sixteenth of an inch.  Is that right?  I haven't seen any good pictures of the brake pads themselves.


#9 kdog

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 03:32 AM

can you elaborate more on this "bang" that you hear- when does it occur,is it a rhythmic type of noise,or do you just hear it once-what is the washer doing or attempting to do when it occurs etc.
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#10 Mad Mac

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 05:14 AM

[user=1186]Fiftyfive[/user] wrote:

Oiling the brakes isn't the approach I would normally take.  I'm glad this isn't an automotive repair forum.

BTW, the brake shoe on my machine is quite thin, probably a sixteenth of an inch.  Is that right?  I haven't seen any good pictures of the brake pads themselves.

 

Equally, your washer isn't a car :cool:

From memory, there isn't a lot of thickness on these anyway - I'll see if I can find a decent picture.

Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#11 Mad Mac

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 05:28 AM

Here's the complete basket drive assembly:

 

Posted Image

 

Brake shoes aren't all that thick. As you see, it's the same principle as a vehicular drum brake.

Mad Mac....Pray to God he's out there....somewhere.

#12 Fiftyfive

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 03:54 PM

It's a single Big Bang.  I am not usually in the room when it happens so I can't be sure, but I think it happens at the end of a cycle.

I just bought another coupler and will pay more attention to when it is happening.

The brakes look ok, buy since this is the only washer I have worked on I can't be sure.


#13 kdog

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 03:39 AM

you are probably hearing a bang when the motor reverses the transmission after a period of agitation,this can be considered a "normal" sound as it is a sign of transmission wear as was previously suggested- eventually these all make that sound which gradually gets louder,it would be unusual to have that sound connected to breaking motor couplings,i;m betting that one of the plastic peices was cracked during installation. this is not uncommon.
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#14 Fiftyfive

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 04:12 PM

I guess it would be good if I broke the last coupler during installation.  Then my problem would be solved.  Does this picture tell us anything?  I figure its impossible to tell if it broke during installation, or was caused by something else entirely.

Posted Image

I have a very embarrassing question though.  Does anyone have a picture of how to install the parts shown below?  I can't remember exactly how they fit, and I can't find a diagram or picture.

Posted Image

 


#15 nickfixit

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 04:58 PM

That coupling looks like it was broken by the transmission. It's rare, but I've had this same thing happen a few times. I don't think you'll get out of this without a new or rebuilt gearcase.

the other parts....

Put the white plastic piece over the shaft and on top of the big nut that holds the basket in. the little plastic finger goes in the open spot on the drive block. then put the metal piece over the shaft, and have the plastic finger between the two bent out ends on the metal piece.

Nick

" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"

#16 Fiftyfive

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 06:10 AM

Well, I buttoned it back up with the new coupler.  So far so good and the Big Bang hasn't reared its ugly head.  The wife had a big smile!  We shall see if it lasts (the coupler and the smile).

I guess I should replace these agitator dogs, huh?  Three of the four have no teeth at all, although I am still not quite sure what they do since everything seems to be working fine.

Posted Image

In case anyone else needs help on the white doohickey/clip question, here is how I reinstalled them:

Posted Image

I love this website and will order my parts through your link.

One last question:

Should I order this - http://www.repaircli...?RccPartID=2837

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or this: http://www.repaircli...?RccPartID=2921

Posted Image

The price difference is only $1, but I want to get the right parts.


#17 Budget Appliance Repair

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Posted 12 June 2005 - 12:06 AM

Either one of those two kits would work but here's even a cheaper option:

Just the 4 dogs that you really need: CLICK HERE $5.15

And check the condition of the agitator thrust washer, the part that goes between the two agitator halves: CLICK HERE $5.15


William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501




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