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txtax1122

Asko W600 Washer

45 posts in this topic

I have a ASKO W600 Front Load Washer.

The washer will allow water to enter the tub, but the tub will not spin/agitate. 

After a minute or two, the program knob will turn itself clockwise until it gets to th "S" portion of the dial.  "S" = service call. 

I have already conducted a search of your archive regarding this washer and problem and no relevent postings were found.  I then searched and read your FAQ on front loading washers.  It pointed me to broken drive belt, worn out drive coupler, or bad motor. 

I want to service the washer myself, but need of some instructions on how to open up this washer to see was it broken or not and need your help.  Could you please provide me these instruction or a link to the ASKO W600 Service Manual.  The "Washer Use and Care Guid" that came with the washer is not a big help to me.  I thank you in advance for your help and assistance. 

PS.  (The help and assistance you provided on my ASKO T700 Dryer was greatly appreciated.  After replacing the belt and two roller she still running and drying.) 

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Need appliance parts? Call 877-803-7957 now!

Update and second plea for assistance. 

Browsed the general schematic of front load washer by looking at the general appliance breakdown diagrams found elsewhere on this website and started and completed removing back panel of washer to get at the washer belt.  The washer belt was still intact and solidly on the drive pulley.  The belt had no cracks and look to be in fine shape.  When I turn/rotate the belt on the pulley it moves the tube left or right depending how I turn/rotate it.  It does not take a lot of force to turn/rotate the belt on the pulley to move the tub. 

Using the "What is wrong with your washing machine?" portion of this website, this section pointed me to what could be wrong with my machine given the situation that it does not agitate/spin. 

1.  Lid Switch - I don't think there is one for this machine.  (It not listed for sales at the associated RepairClinic website.) 

2.  Motor Coupler - Per information found here, this is for Whirlpool washers.

3.  Belt - As stated above, mine is no broke or cracked and still on the drive pulley. 

4.  Clutch - Per information found here, this is for GE washers. 

5.  Drive Motor - Expensive.  How do I test mine?  It not listed on RepairClinic website, do I need to phone them to see if they have it for sale.  Instruction on how to remove is requested. 

6.  Drive Pulley - Appears to be fine.  What should I be looking for it it not in working order. 

7.  Transmission - I don't think Asko use one. 

8.  Agitator - Asko does not use one. 

Last but not least, your assistance and wise/experience advice is still wanted and requested.  I thank you in advance for your reply and help. 

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Second Update. 

No replies from anyone on this forum/website.  People are looking my posting but no one is replying.

Bite the bullet and took out the drive motor and inspected motor brushes.  At first they both look OK and both were touching the coil like they were suppose to.  Took out the right motor brush and saw that is had a round cylinder motor brush within the motor brush and it located on the bottom of the main motor brush.  I took out the left motor brush and noticed the round cylinder motor brush was worn down to level of the larger main motor brush.  I hope this is what is causing my machine to not agitate/spin.  I ordered 2 new motor brush from ASKO on Wednesday and they should arrive on Friday or Saturday.  I also ordered a new belt to replace existing belt as a preventive maintenance thing.  I will give a third and hopefully final update once I get and install the new motor brushes. I will also put out the part number for my motor brushes and instruction on how to remove belt and drive motor in the third update.  Wish me luck.  

PS.  Why no love/replies for this posting? 

 

 

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Third update - final post.  :)

1.  Motor brushes (Asko Part No. 8801097) and Drive Belt (Asko Part No. 8061682) came via UPS Ground.  It only took one day to get here, Houston, Texas, because they came from Richardson, Texas. 

2.  Inspected new motor brushes and compared them with the old one.  The new brushes are about 2 and 1/2 inches long.  The old brushes were 1/2 inch long. 

3.  Installed new brushes to drive motor.  Two these to note when installing the new motor brushes to the drive motor.  I had to bend the male end of the connection 90* degrees so that they would go into the female connection properly.  The new brushes also has a neat install feature that keeps the brushes down via a plastic tab, untill you install them on the drive motor.  After you intall them, you have to break the plastic tabs off so that the brush can extend itself and reach the coil. 

4.  Intalled drive motor to washing machine.  The drive motor is attaced to washing machine by two 10 inch bolts.  Very easy to get the drive motor on and off the washing machine.  Reattached power supply to drive motor. 

5.  Intalled the new drive belt.  Attached the belt to the drive motor and then partially to the left side of the pulley on the washing machine and turn the pulley or pull on th belt from the right side so that the belt will slip onto the pulley fully. 

6.  Attach the metal back plate of the washing machine to the washine machine with the small 12 screws you orginally took off to take it out. 

7.  Push the washing machine back into its postion.  Put the waste water hose down the drain hole.  Reattach the water line to water supply.  Plug the electrical cord back into the dryer.

8.  Cross your fingers and start the washer with an empty load.  If you did everything right, the tub will start to agitate/spin once the machine is filled with a little water. 

9.  That it.  On a difficult rating of 1 to 10.  1 = Changing a light bulb 10 = Building your own house.  I give this a 3 = Changing your own oil on your car.  On a satisfaction level I give it two thumbs up.  First thumb is because I don't work on washing machine or drying machines very much and second thumb because it work like a charm. 

10.  Much thanks to this website for giving me the knowledge and push to give trying to fix my own dryer and and now washing machine a chance.  (PS.  I replace my Asko T700 Dryer belt, roller bearings, and springs a year ago with help and advice I received here.)  Knock on wood, I hope it will be longer than a year before I have to do any more work on either machine.  I will  check back periodically over the next couple of weeks to answers any questions you might have about this posting.  Thanks again for a great website and may my posting help others.  Good night.  :D

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Now that I got to read tis thread (have just been doing some of the latest)... Now this is for everyone's information, not as muh for txtax, as he figured most of this out already... and thumbs up, man, there was no monkey business about it, but thorough troubleshooting, and fixing the right part at once when on it. Not even all of the trained techs can achieve this.

The washer will allow water to enter the tub, but the tub will not spin/agitate.

One of the most obvious reasons for this on the front loaders (and top loaded horizontal axis drum machines as well), are the motor brushes. And you found the fault to be just this, and repaired it with no big hassle. That's the way to go.

Think that the drum spins at 800 RPM, the pulley is 50cm dia, and the motor pulley is 3cm dia... the motor will spin at some 13,333 RPM. This will wear the brushes quick, especially some cheaper brushes. Often the transmission ratio is lower, meaning higher motor spin.

Lid Switch - I don't think there is one for this machine.

Nope, a door switch instead.

Motor Coupler - Per information found here, this is for Whirlpool washers

Actually, direct drive, top load agitator machines. Entirely drum operated machines haven't got his feature, whether top or front loaded.

Clutch - Per information found here, this is for GE washers

Again for top loaded agitator machines, whether belt/direct drive. Some entirely drum operated machines may employ a TIGHT friction clutch to prevent belt/motor failure if the drum binds.

Transmission - I don't think Asko use one

Nope, the front loader has only the belt transmission, if even that (direct drive).

inspected motor brushes ... At first they both look OK and both were touching the coil like they were suppose to.

A good method to verify this is, if you can operate the machine so that the motor is mounted and the commutator visible... push a sharp plastic or wooden stick into the gap between the brush holder and rotor, against the side of the brush, and repeat on other brush if needed. If this makes the motor run, you can heavily suspect that the brush is entirely out. Usually there's some left of the other one then, but they should be both changed.

Took out the right motor brush and saw that is had a round cylinder motor brush within the motor brush and it located on the bottom of the main motor brush. 

Definitely worn way down.

I also ordered a new belt to replace existing belt as a preventive maintenance thing.
 

Good idea, as you're already there if it comes to the brush job and the motor must be detached.

Inspected new motor brushes and compared them with the old one.  The new brushes are about 2 and 1/2 inches long.  The old brushes were 1/2 inch long.

This, and the problem being fixed by the job, are sure indications of the brushes being the problem.

On a difficult rating of 1 to 10 I give this a 3 = Changing your own oil on your car.

I was going to compare changing the belt when working on the motor, to changing the oil filter when you change oil... good preventive measures, won't add a lot $ to the job but will keep you from coming back in a little time, if everything goes right.

BTW, everything going nicely like this, I bet you managed this without a glance at my, ahem, essay on changing brushes? :D Truely it is a quite straightforward job especially if the intended spare brushes are easily available, and a substitute need not to be sought.

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I have been perusing all the asko washer related posts and I think this one speaks to my problem as well, but after reading some other posts I am a bit confused.

My Asko W620 washer fills with water and even agitates a little bit, then when it gets to the spin cycle it just hums for a while, then moves on through the other cycles until it appears that it's done, but when I try to open the door it won't pop open and there is still a bunch of water in the machine.  I tried turning it off and letting it "rest" for a day because I though maybe it was just tired, and that actually worked.  It went through one spin cycle and I was able to get my clothes out.  But now it's back to humming and not spinning.

I'm thinking that it's the motor brushes from what I've read here, but could there be something else?

 

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First, apologies to txtax1122, not sure why I never saw this one because I would've replied much sooner. Mary, your problem will most likely be the brushes, too. Very common repair on these washers:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=764414

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Any chance it's the door switch since the door won't open? Or is that just because there is water in the machine? One more thing, the liquid fabric softener wasn't dispensed at all.  I don't know if that's related in any way, or if the machine just threw that in to throw me off track. 

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[user=4710]maryloucb[/user] wrote:

Any chance it's the door switch since the door won't open?

Homey don't play "chance." No pump out = no spin. Clear the crud out of your pump cleanout and see if you can get it to pump out.

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Cleaned that out a couple of days ago--found enough change for a cup of coffee (not Starbucks), but after trying again, still no spin and still water left in there.

Is there a diagram of the area I'm about to tackle on this site at all, or do I have to fly blind?

Thanks for all your help--I'm making a donation to the beer fund just for the karma it might generate.

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I got the motor off fairly easily and the brushes look like they are making good contact, but are about 1/2 inch long when extended, so from what I've read here that may or may not be a sign that they are worn.  I've ordered some new brushes, so keep your fingers crossed for me and if that doesn't work, I'll be back for some more advice.

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While brushes may be involved, this won't affect your no-pumpout problem, which will remain after the motor brushes are replaced. If I were on the service call, I would pull the pump and see if there's a bobby-pin, nail, or something like that stuck in the impeller.

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Yes check if the impeller is jammed... if the pump runs at all?

Also other obstructions in the drain chain don't yet seem to be rueld out.

Still, if tumbling was awkward, it seems like there could be a main motor related problem. Or loose/worn belt, binding bearing, etc... Any of them, anyway, don't explain the missing or incomplete draining. But, as Dr. House has said, it isn't impossible that the same patient has two maladies.

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Okay, now you are starting to speak a strange, foreign language.  Excuse my naivete, but what is an impeller?  (Any pump diagrams available?) And do I need to pull the pump out of the machine to inspect that?  Is there a way I can test the pump to see if it is working with the thing half disassembled in my hallway?

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The impeller is just the part of the pump that spins around and slings the water out the discharge hose. This page from the service manual will help you get to it.

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Thanks!  Where can I get my hands on that service manual?

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As an expression of gratitude for your generous love-offering to my flavorite charity, I've sent a copy of the entire service manual to your crusty butte email address. ;)

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Wow!  I knew you New Hampsherites were okay!:cheers:

Thanks and enjoy a Tuckerman's on me (ever try New Belgium beers?)

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I'm replacing the motor brushes and pulling out the pump today--is there any way to tell if the pump is bad just by looking, or do I just have to put it back in and give it a try if there's nothing obviously stuck in the impeller?

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Okay, never mind about the pump.  I replaced the brushes, made sure there were no obstructions around the pump and started it up.  It seems to be working now, although it is making more noise than usual (I read that it takes a while for the brushes to get filed down to the correct shape.)  I will keep my fingers crossed that this has solved the problem!  Now I've got piles of laundry to catch up on!

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After replacing the brushes I ran a few loads and it seemed to have some issues with draining.  It drains, but not all the way, and then it won't spin.  If I put it back on the drain cycle it drains more fully and then it spins just fine.  I'm guessing that this is a pump issue, or else maybe an obstruction in the outlet hose?  Any suggestions?

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I presume you have checked the pump cleanout? (I had to ask.) OK, then here's what I would do. First, I'd just set it pump out and then check the discharge stream. If it's weak and anemic, then I see why it's not pumping out all the way. This would also tell me that the electrical control circuitry for the pump is working fine. Additionally, it tells me that the pump *motor* is fine, both electrically and mechanically, and is not involved in the problem. The pump *impeller*, however, is involved in the problem, either as a cause or an effect. It's important to distinguish which because it's the difference between buying a whole new pump (because you can't replace the impeller separately from the motor-- it's a unit kind of a deal) at significant cost (~$80?) or merely removing a wayward pair off panties.

When you can snatch these pebbles from my hand, Grasshoppah, then it is time for you to leave.

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* Asko W600 Brushes Kicked *

Hello all.  This forum has given me most of the answers I need, but I wanted to confirm a couple things and inquire as to whether someone could share a service manual....  Heres the story, leaving aside rantings about how the W600, and partner dryer have been putting a hurt on my serenity:

* Washer had been making a lot of noise during spin/agitate cycles--sort of an agonized whirring at speed, with much louder difficult-to-describe sounds when changing directions during agitate. 

* (Un-?) related frequent occurence of washing ending at "C" ("Customer-Fixable Problem").  Despite ending at "C," I could find nothing really wrong with the clothes--they seem like they were washed properly.

* I clean the pin trap pretty regularly, and occaisionally find coin or two, but cannot connect cleaning the trap to making the "C" go away.  The "C" seems random.

* Got an "S" ("Service Tech Required") yesterday.  Washer will not spin or agitate, empty or full, but the pump seems to be working fine--it expells water.  The tank fills, too, as evidenced by the soaking wet pile of wash I had to carry to the laundromat.

* I took the back off and pulled the moter.  Belt is fine, drum makes no noise with belt removed.  Motor is loud (when spun by hand) with brushes connected; quieter but not silent with brushes removed. The brushes are bad--picture attached.

Questions

  • Is Asko/A.M. the best place to buy these?  I can't find them on RepairClinic
  • Is the motor supposed to be silent sans brushes--i.e., should I worry about a bearing in the motor?
  • Is it likely that the pretty loud noise I was hearing when the machine still worked could be made by brushes?
  • Could brushes be responsible for the "C" errors that occurred for a while before I got the "S"
  • Is there any way to get a Service Manual? :D

Thanks a lot for the help.

post-16462-129045096184_thumb.jpg

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RepairClinic does carry the brushes; you can get 'em ratcheer.  Though, if that's a picture of your current brushes, they don't look very worn.  But I've seen the brushes fail in other ways and the holsters themselves can fail.

The motor won't be absolutely quiet w/o the brushes.  The most common failure with these motors is with worn brushes.  I don't think I've ever seen one of these motors fail for some other reason, though I make no claims that my experience, vast and awesome as as it is, constitutes a comprehensive catalogue of component failure.  You're pretty safe replacing the brushes.  If, by some perverse event, it turns out there's something else wrong with the motor, you can return the brushes for a refund, less shipping.

Sent a copy of the service manual to your gmail account.

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Much gratitude for the guidance and the manual.  I sent you an email regarding the manual:  I was hoping that someone might have a service tech's manual for the w600....  Maybe I'm imagining something that doesn't exist, but I thought there might be a manual that had schematics, etc. 

After reading The Samurai's post, I re-fitted my brushes to confirm bad contact.  The brush pictured on the right in the above photo has that pin-like portion sticking out, which causes the larger surface of the brush to be held about 3/32" away from direct contact with the rotor.  The pin thing does make contact.  The brush on the other side makes fine contact.

Does a second view of the brush photo (and the pin thing sticking out) make you think they could have been the problem?  I've already ordered a pair (by clicking your link) from RepairClinic for 2nd day delivery.

Many thanks.

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