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Fisher Paykel Dishwasher, DD602, Won't Start


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3 replies to this topic

#1 Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 03:36 PM

Went on a service call for a Fisher Paykel dishdrawer yesterday. Complaint was that the lower drawer would not start up. Diagnosis confirmed the complaint, the drawer would act as though it wasn't closed all the way, would just give not-ready beeps when you closed it and pressed start.

I put the drawer into diagnostic mode by pressing and holding the Key Lock and Start buttons simultaneously. In diagnostic mode, I could review the current and previous error codes. Current code showed U2, drawer not closed error. The prime suspect in this case is always the drawer limit switch. On the DD602's, the limit switch is located on the very back of the left drawer guide which means, you guessed it, the drawer needs to come out.

If you've not removed a drawer from a DD602, you're in for a joy ride. This article has details on how to do it. Fisher Paykel has made several improvements in the DD603 models which have been gratefully received by Fisher Paykel servicers. The drawer linkage is chief among them. It's actually not that bad, you just have to be patient and methodical.

Anyway, with the drawer out, the problem was plainly visible, as seen in the thumbnail photo below. Click it for a larger view.


[align=center]Posted Image
Fisher Paykel DD602, broken drawer limit switch. You can see that the actuating lever on the switch has been broken and bent upwards, so it can no longer depress the switch button. Consequently, the dishdrawer's CPU never knows the drawer is closed.[/align]

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#2 Kiwi-nadian

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 01:44 AM

As our our exalted grand master of fixitdo has informed us, the drawer ,even though shut, will beep like it isn't.  The easiest way to replace the switch is as follows:  

Top drawer:  remove clips holding drawer front and remove, with the drawer open fully,  then push both slide rails back about 3 inches, the n lift the drawer from the RH side and slide the RH rail back fully, then lift the drawer off the LH rail and rest the front of the drawer on a strategically placed object ( I prefer a tool box, but a small child or lethargic dog will suffice ), the LH rail can be pushed in , but not too far.  The microswitch can now be easily accessed on the end of the LH rail, gently remove by placing a flat blade s/driver in behind the switch and twist blade to disengage.  Remove wires from old switch and fit to new one.  A torch comes in handy right about now as the new switch has to be mounted squarely on the mounting pins of the bracket.  Once the switch has been fitted, pull the LH side rail forward, not fully, lift the drawer off object ( pat object on head or kick out of  the way depending on relationship with object ) and place drawer on rail, then the RH rail.  After making sure drawer is sitting squarely on the rails, pull both rails forward to reengage hooks at back end of rail. Refit front and clips.

Bottom drawer: As above to remove the front but you must also remove the base cover from the bottom of the drawer.  Unclip at front first, then unclip base and remove.  Now disengage the hoses  from the clips on the base of the drawer, and remove wiring from retainers.  The only part to disconnect is the earth lead to the heater plate.  Unclip the link from the back of the drawer, slide RH rail back fully, and  place drawer on its RH side.You will notice the mains box right next to the m/switch, this used to be a pain in the keester, but no more.  Clamping the LH side rail to the chassis are two star head screws at the front, remove these and wedge a flat blade s/driver in the top edge of the rail assembly , between it and the chassis ( this should unclip the locking notch in the rail assy from the chassis ),  then, as loudly as possible, knock LH rail upward until it releases.  Pull the rail forward slightly and this will give clearance to remove the faulty switch with ease.  When refitting the rail assy, make sure the hooks at the back line up squarely with the 2 slots in the back of the chassis, fit the hooks on the front of the rail assy to the chassis ( they should line up if the back of the rail is fitted correctly, but you may have to force to the left a bit )and then knock it down until the locking notch engages, refit the screws and reassemble drawer as above, but in reverse.  Make sure the base cover is fitted correctly or it will scrape on the chassis.  This version of DD has been my bread and butter DW for the last 5 yrs( very, very popular in NZ, and also a very tidy unit to work on as everything is so accessable ).      


Remember, if you dont feel confident, get someone who does.
:armed:

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#3 kdog

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 09:23 AM

you sure know your f&p kiwi,we see so few of them here that everytime i get one it's out with the books and time for a refresher course, then you just have it understood,and it's 6 mos. till the next class.       :?
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#4 Kiwi-nadian

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 11:00 AM

Fisher & Paykel is so big in NZ, that when a new brand comes on the market, I jump at the chance to be a service agent for it because of the variation.  I have seen good techs go bad:tard:  or should I say mad, from just working on 1 or 2 brands of appliance for too long. F&P make a huge range of stuff , from ovens to chest freezers and have been the most popular brand in the country for 30yrs.  As we know, sometimes the hardest part of the job is figuring the easiest way to get into the appliance, and this keeps the brain a'tickin.  
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