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Member Since 29 Jun 2005
Offline Last Active Apr 07 2015 10:51 PM

#301005 Frigidaire FDB641RJS0 dishwasher: clean below, dirty above

Posted by slantsixdan on 14 August 2014 - 05:08 PM

Wound up finding out the property owner's opinion was "Meh…thanks for trying, just go pick out a new one and send me the bill". Snagged a sweet deal on a Bosch SHE3ARF2UC that's been really good (this despite my previous difficulties with a Bosch SHX3AM05UC in my own house—once I squawked loudly enough, Bosch stepped up and made that right, so I gave 'em another chance).

#285220 LG LRM2060ST µwave: turntable mostly doesn't

Posted by slantsixdan on 20 February 2014 - 01:11 AM

Meanwhile, grab some popcorn and watch this movie of my microwave with/without the glass platter:

#269951 Kenmore dryer 970-C81062-00 timer doesn't advance (&service manual?)

Posted by slantsixdan on 02 October 2013 - 02:29 PM

Got it, thanks. In checking more carefully, I find I was wrong: it's only on the automatic cyclies that the timer doesn't advance. On a timed cycle it does advance. The manual you linked has flowcharts to cover this possibility, but I'm not certain whether the 970-C81062-00 does or doesn't have an electronic moisture sensor. Derp! I are all smart and stuff! Not only can I identify the moisture sensor strips below the air grate, but I can also read the front of the dryer where it says "Electronic Moisture Sensing"! aHyuck! Sheesh.


Guessing probably a dead moisture sensor; will put my DMM across it and see what I find.

#236727 Flash! Waffle Iron Eats Range Knob! Film at Eleven!

Posted by slantsixdan on 23 July 2012 - 04:31 PM

Black $2.65 knob wins it. It'll cover the dots just inboard of the callouts, but the callouts themselves ("1", "2", "3", etc. for the surface burners and "200", "250", "300" … "Bake", "Broil", "Clean", etc. for the oven) will remain legible.

Much obliged, good suh -- I love this forum!

#170468 Bosch dishwasher SHX3AM05UC/01 poor/inconsistent performance

Posted by slantsixdan on 26 September 2010 - 09:07 PM

So okeh, I pulled the unit out, turned it on its front, and removed the pump/heater/motor assembly, expecting to find the pump clogged. That expectation was dashed, however; the pump is internally pristine; the impeller is in perfect condition and spins freely. I shone a powerful light in the transfer ports (one of which leads to the lower wash arm, and the other to the upper) and found no clog there, either. No evidence of any detritus in any of the helpfully-translucent drain hoses, either.


Now, this what I describe raises an interesting quandary: there is strong language in the warranty stating that any unauthorized service work, including exploration or "fixing" (quotes theirs, not mine) by the owner, nullifies the warranty. So…don't ask, don't tell, right? Wrong; the pump is built with tamper-telltales: it is held together by four tapered tabs, each of which fits into a slot and snaps into position on a rearward-facing ledge. To take the pump apart, you press on the tapered end of the tab to unhook it from the ledge. Behind each tab is a second tab, stressed to just shy of the breaking point. You so much as TOUCH the tapered tab and the indicator tab breaks off. It does not interfere with reassembly, but it does indicate "someone's been here". Oh yeah, and there's one of those hellspawned single-use crimped hose clamps holding the pump output to the water transfer port boot. So now I face the interesting choice of how to approach a conversation with the fine people at Bosch. Do I play dumb, or do I lay it on the line for them? And will they say "Eff you" or will they step up? Stay tuned.

Per our Zen Master's request, I took photos of the pump removal and take-apart. Follow along with me as we remove and disassemble the heated circulation pump.

When you hear this sound »Doink!«   y'turn the page. Ready? Let's begin.



Here's what we see when we remove the dishwasher and tip it forward onto its front:




The pump is held to the underside of the dishwasher with a rubber strap to isolate noise and vibration:



Prise the strap off the pump's hanger tab:



And use a T20 Torx™ driver to remove three of the four screws that hold the pump outlet boot to the water transfer ports:



…at which point you'll discover that with the pump still in place, the fourth screw is inaccessible by any Torx driver on this plane of existence. So, prise open the hell-spawned one-use-only Keystone Klamp that holds the boot to the pump outlet:


…and firmly pull the pump's inlet boot off the sump outlet:



Now you can rotate the pump and see the electrical connectors. There appears to be one 7-pole disconnect on the side of the pump:



…but it's really a 3-pole and a 4-pole. Go ahead and unplug them with wanton abandon—the plugs and sockets are keyed so they can be installed only the right way round and on the correct pins; you cannot swap their positions. This is an example of poka-yoke, mistake-proof design:



Next, turn your attention to the 3-pole motor connector at the end of the assembly. The end shield is easily removed by undoing two T20 Torx™ screws:



With the shield removed, the 3-pole disconnect can easily be unplugged:


split into another post, limit on number of picture links

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