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Scottthewolf

Member Since 01 Feb 2007
Offline Last Active Sep 18 2014 09:50 PM

Topics I've Started

Kitchen Aid Built in refrigerator model # KSSS42DAW01

01 July 2014 - 10:44 PM

I don't know what the issue is with this refrigerator, the unit is not self defrosting.

I've replaced the defrost timer with part Part number: 2183400

Part number: 2183400
and the defrost thermostat part Part number: 4387499

Part number: 4387499
. When I manually advance the defrost timer to defrost mode, the defrost heater comes on and does it's job, but it won't come out of defrost mode on it's own.

Am I correct that the #2183400 defrost timer is not the "flying lead" timer and that no wiring modifications are necessary? I think I just got a bad defrost timer out of the package. Anybody else have any ideas or suggestions on this issue?

Really GE? WTF?

25 June 2014 - 11:13 PM

GE SXS built in refrigerator Model # ZISB48DYA,  evaporator is up in the ceiling of the freezer compartment and to get to it you must remove 4 panels and a million screws.  then it's got a styrafoam block under the evaporator with a metal drain pan attached to it.   Defrost thermostat is all the way in the back of the evaporator along with the evaporator fan delay thermostat,   To replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater you practically have to stand in the freezer compartment with your head under the evaporator. 

 

Manually defrosting this unit is a no no. If you aren't using a light wheile you're doing it you can't see what you're doing and if you are, the defrost water is going to land right on your light. 

 

Seriously GE, who the hell puts the evaporator in the ceiling of the freezer compartment?   I'd hate to have to do an evaporator replacement on this model, there is no room for your torch.


Samsung Washer Model # WF331ANW/XAA

19 June 2014 - 10:52 PM

Ok, John63, I need your help.  

 

I replaced the hall sensor for the machine counting down too fast to the end of the cycle in spin.  It jumps from 5 minutes to 1 minute in the spin cycle.  I wanted to change the main PCB in the console too, but according to my parts supplier, the part # is DC92-00255A, which I know is incorrect because the digital display is on the right of the control panel, not above the cycle selector dial in the middle. According to Sears, they can't find parts for this model.  I am no longer an authorized servicer for Samsung, so I have no access to the GSPN website. 

 

Am I on the right track replacing the hall sensor and the main PCB, or should I be replacing the motor PCB in the bottom of the machine in the rear for this problem of counting down too fast in the spin cycle? I am not getting any error codes at all either.

 

 


What the hell is wrong with the dishwasher engineers these days?

17 June 2014 - 12:04 AM

My latest gripe is the new style GE dishwashers. Seriously, why must the main control board be at the bottom of the tub and why the hell must the door be removed off the hinges to access it?  Even to gain access to the control panel at the top of the door, the door has to be removed off the hinges to gain access to it. STUPID, and all to save money on screws.

 

Also, On Bosch's newest line of dishwashers,the main control board is in the base of the unit. To access it, the dishwasher has to be pulled out from under the counter. Again, Total stupidity. Better hope that there's never a leak down there, it will totally ruin these boards.


The Revenge of the Maytag Washers

10 June 2014 - 10:28 PM

OK, Whirlpool has totally got out of hand with their parts prices.  I had a Maytag Dependable Care top load washer with a totally ruined mounting stem, boot, & seal and a ruined tub bearing, but this one was down a basement  in really hard well water, and also ruined was the transmission, brake package and the lower spin bearing, so this washer was totalled. 

 

Then, later that day, I also get a call on a Maytag Bravos washer which I call the (fake) Bravos washer because it is nothing more than a modular vertical washer without an agitator. My customer had just bought this washer from a friend who had it in storage for about a year.  Well, sure enough, even though it was only 3 years old and only used a couple of times, the main tub seal and the bearing (the bearing is part of the gearcase) was totally ruined. $300 just in parts to fix this machine, so again another washer for the landfill.

 

One good thing about the old Whirlpool belt drive washers and the Whirlpool direct drive washers is that the gearcase remained stationary during the spin cycle and they didn't eat tub seals and tub bearings.



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