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Member Since 02 Mar 2007
Offline Last Active Jun 22 2014 04:25 PM

#296920 GE REFER M#ZISB420DMA display will not change after changing motherboard?

Posted by reeferman on 22 June 2014 - 11:55 AM

Customer purchased the parts and I did not write them down - believe or not I verified the part to the model no. by using repair clinic's website. ironic. So, sorry I did not write it down.


Immediately after checking my own connections, I opened the unit and the temperature went down 1 degree. I don't know if it had begun cooling or if I jiggled a wire, but it began cooling soon after I read your post. 


The cause of the motherboard failure was a burnt resistor marked as evaporator fan motor on the diagram, and when inspecting the evaporator fan motor it was covered with frozen droplets and dripping water both. My guess is it shorted and sent the short to the board and shorted the resistor, but that is only a guess...


Thanks durham.

#284134 Whirlpool Gas Range/Oven M#GS445LEMS 2

Posted by reeferman on 10 February 2014 - 07:12 PM

Nothing really for followup except it looks as though a vent to carry heat from the oven during clean cycle is directly below the area where the board is mounted. It looks like the board gets overheated. 


Thanks for the fast shipping RepairClinic…and the advice...

#278339 BOSCH washer M#WFL2060UC, fills, won't wash...

Posted by reeferman on 19 December 2013 - 05:42 PM

worn to the nub. great advice! thanks.

#269037 Microwave, KitchenAid, KCMS185J/145J, STUCK DOOR

Posted by reeferman on 22 September 2013 - 05:38 PM

Ooops! Forgot to leave some feedback on this. Slid a plastic card under the handle/latch area and opened the door. Part #5 had a broken tab/keeper that I glued and reinforced with epoxy. It's still working. Thanks for the info!

#260748 Bosch Dishwasher SHU9915UC-U11

Posted by reeferman on 10 July 2013 - 10:24 PM

Konichi-wa! (my apologies for spelling - no neighbors from Japan to learn from) 


It was a stuck float. I'm unaware of how it got that way so I'll keep an eye on this. Once again I feel the awesome force of this website, from the three of you...thank you.

#245512 BROAN down-draft M#2530-A , 09F , cycles up and down continuously , need manual

Posted by reeferman on 03 January 2013 - 08:06 PM

I wanted to close this thread by offering my own feedback on what I discovered on this down draft hood. Grease had splattered on the assembly that rises out of the counter top and once cleaned with some Awesome from the 99 store the hood operated perfectly. It was only dirty, but it was sticky enough to cause it to stutter and drag, and the sensor thought it was hitting something and kept taking it down, and up, and repeating. cleaning it solved the problem. Yes, the grease was mostly on one side making it look as though there was a problem with the track...

#236947 AMCORAIRE mini-split M#UCHW-H12AF2 power problems and tech manual

Posted by reeferman on 27 July 2012 - 10:07 AM

I am unfamiliar with this type of air conditioning system: the mini-split. Are there parts available? Is there a technical manual or service diagnostic sheet for this particular unit?

It suffered a burned wire at the terminal connection inside the condensing unit a few weeks back. I repaired it, and it worked for a few weeks, but now there is another problem. The inside display shows 76 degrees, but when pressing buttons on the remote there is no response from the inside or outside units.

As a side note, the problems are likely due to the system being on a shared electrical supply, and in the summer heat, there may be a voltage loss occurring that is inducing problems in this unit.

As usual, thank you for any input, and Christmas is not far away - the beer stacketh up higheth!

#229975 GE Refrigerator M#PDS22M1SABB

Posted by reeferman on 13 April 2012 - 09:17 AM

sorry it took so long to close this thread....I eventually replaced the small circuit board behind the touch panel/thermostat buttons...after confirming the thermistors. Thanks for the great input!

#228347 Amana REFER M#ARB8057CSR compressor btu rating?

Posted by reeferman on 28 March 2012 - 12:47 AM

Well, thanks again for the tech sheet, the btu research, and all the input and questions. Once again I have proven that lifting a refrigerator off the floor with one hand is no accurate way of determining the btu rating of a compressor. I had followed another tech on this, because I am a glutton for punishment and cannot escape the clutches of spilled vacuum oil and hidden dryers buried coyly in condenser lines. Out of curiosity I put a shot of nitrogen in and - voila! Leak at the discharge line 12 inches from port of compressor. I replaced the corroded line and replaced the absent R134a with R414b (hot shot) and will see how the repair holds up. Thanks again to all for all the input!

#227570 Amana REFER M#ARB8057CSR compressor btu rating?

Posted by reeferman on 20 March 2012 - 07:46 PM

I've been replacing r134a w/ r409a since the 1990's. I just never was sold on the whole 134 thing.(I understand now that it is in the process of being phased out and replaced with something akin to 409) I'm still wondering what the btu rating is on this particular fridge. I am currently in contact with Embraco's website and trying to work with them on obtaining a full, cross-referenced database on compressors sold by them in N. America.

So far I have for this original compressor: 12049717, m0223816, and an unreadable embraco # EGY 51LP. I'm guessing at this point, that because it's a hi-efficiency unit, just under 20 ft. cubed, running 134a, that it will take an embraco 7.5, if such compressor exists. (approximately 750-815 btus)
Also, it might interest some of you: the blend type compressors, that run on alkybenzene oil, typically cost 1/3 of a standard replacement, last longer because of the hardier oil, and are much more forgiving of contamination and traces of wear in the sealed system, but it does require a flush of liquid and gas through the entire system (which should be done anyway, in all cases, after a burnout).
Ok, anyone want to hazard a guess on where to find the btu ratings, simply by knowing the original compressor part #?
by the way - I do use 134 and do change some compressors with original equipment - it just depends on the situation, but mostly it's 409.

#227316 coin op GE Washer M# WMCD2050HIWC light blinks four times on motor

Posted by reeferman on 18 March 2012 - 12:06 PM

I took a good look at this device. I kind of got the impression it was built about as strong as the direct drive coupler on the whirlpool machine - if the machine is overloaded, the part will break. It was just an impression.

I actually took the part home and put it on the bench. The solenoid that moves the shifter had an open winding, and there was quite a bit of wear on some of the contact parts. The machine went together fine and worked for another month, before I got another call on it. I replaced the machine with a Speed Queen ( because it's a coin op) and, unless I hear GE has made a modification that has improved the quality, will not recommend purchase/repairs to future customers.

On the whole, the repair is straightforward, with many steps in the disassembly. I have only worked on the one. The fact that it broke down again, soon after it's repair was a disappointment.

#211211 coin op GE Washer M# WMCD2050HIWC light blinks four times on motor

Posted by reeferman on 15 October 2011 - 12:22 AM

Ok. I've finally returned to work on this and boy! You guys were both a great help. It appears the front brace was bent by the machine trying to spin while agitating. Fixed em both. Yeah!

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