Well, the parts list helped. I must say that this was the easiest door change on a side by side with a dispenser I've ever done.
Not sure if this will help anyone but I promised to post something and here it is. Please forgive typos and such...
Open freezer and turn off the ice maker.
Remove the top hinge cover and disconnect the three molex connectors - no need to disconnect or shut off the water supply.
Remove the ground screw from the top hinge.
Remove the front grill or kick plate.
Disconnect the water line at the bottom of the door, leaving the John Guest fitting off the line, but still attached to the line from under the refer.
Loosen and remove the two 3/8 screws on the top hinge and carefully remove the hinge and set atop the refer, while holding the door, then pick the door up and set on a flat surface.
Look up into the dispenser and note the two screws holding the narrow plastic cover - remove the narrow plastic cover.
Note the two black colored screws holding the dispenser display and remove the two screws.
Gingerly pull the display away from the dispenser and disconnect the mini wire harnesses.
Take a photo of the remaining dispenser wiring and store it on your phone to refer during reassembly.
Note the two silver colored screws holding the dispenser, and the green ground wire clipped to the upper portion of the door skin.
Remove the ground wire by pushing it off with your finger.
Note the black plastic zip tie holding the water line in place and remove the zip tie.
Note the proximity of the electronic circuit board on the dispenser and use care not to allow water to drip onto it during the next step.
Remove the two silver colored screws and carefully extract the dispenser assembly, while removing the water line from the three clips, and disconnecting the wire connectors.
Remove the wire harness by gently pulling it up through the top of the door and feed it into the new door.
Remove the water line by gently pulling it up through the dispenser area and re feed it into the new door, through the dispenser first and pushing it toward the bottom. Leave about two inches exposed at the bottom.
Carefully remove the plastic sheeting covering the new door around the edges and the gasket area, but leave it intact on the face of the door.
Using a 3/32 allen key remove the two screws holding the handle and gently lift the handle and set aside. Use a 3/8 tool to remove the holding bolts and place on the new door and tighten. Re attach the handle and tighten.
Remove the gasket from the old door and place onto the new door. It's easy!
Re install the dispenser into the new door and place the water line into the three clips, careful not to allow any water drops to spill onto the circuit board.
Carefully place the door back onto the refer and attach the top hinge and two screws, aligning the door. Tighten the screws. Connect the ground wire, but do not connect the three molex connectors yet!
Connect the water line at the bottom and pull the excess back up and into the dispenser area. You may have to play with the length of tubing until it sits right.
Re connect the wiring.
Re attach the green ground clip and wire to the under side of the dispenser area - refer to your photo!
Check your work with the photo on your camera. Check the route of the water line and ensure it is relaxed and correctly positioned.
Connect the wires remaining to the display board and re attach the display.
Re attach the cosmetic faceplate.
Connect the three molex connectors and replace the cosmetic hinge cover. Plug the unit back in.
If you get a trouble code like I did, the unit will beep for about five minutes and then suddenly stop and return to normal display.
It's a snap to change. Remove the rest of the plastic cover protecting the door skin, turn on the ice maker, don't forget the plastic compartments on the inside of the door, and collect!
Customer purchased the parts and I did not write them down - believe or not I verified the part to the model no. by using repair clinic's website. ironic. So, sorry I did not write it down.
Immediately after checking my own connections, I opened the unit and the temperature went down 1 degree. I don't know if it had begun cooling or if I jiggled a wire, but it began cooling soon after I read your post.
The cause of the motherboard failure was a burnt resistor marked as evaporator fan motor on the diagram, and when inspecting the evaporator fan motor it was covered with frozen droplets and dripping water both. My guess is it shorted and sent the short to the board and shorted the resistor, but that is only a guess...
Posted by reeferman
on 10 February 2014 - 07:12 PM
Nothing really for followup except it looks as though a vent to carry heat from the oven during clean cycle is directly below the area where the board is mounted. It looks like the board gets overheated.
Thanks for the fast shipping RepairClinic…and the advice...
Posted by reeferman
on 22 September 2013 - 05:38 PM
Ooops! Forgot to leave some feedback on this. Slid a plastic card under the handle/latch area and opened the door. Part #5 had a broken tab/keeper that I glued and reinforced with epoxy. It's still working. Thanks for the info!
I wanted to close this thread by offering my own feedback on what I discovered on this down draft hood. Grease had splattered on the assembly that rises out of the counter top and once cleaned with some Awesome from the 99 store the hood operated perfectly. It was only dirty, but it was sticky enough to cause it to stutter and drag, and the sensor thought it was hitting something and kept taking it down, and up, and repeating. cleaning it solved the problem. Yes, the grease was mostly on one side making it look as though there was a problem with the track...
I am unfamiliar with this type of air conditioning system: the mini-split. Are there parts available? Is there a technical manual or service diagnostic sheet for this particular unit?
It suffered a burned wire at the terminal connection inside the condensing unit a few weeks back. I repaired it, and it worked for a few weeks, but now there is another problem. The inside display shows 76 degrees, but when pressing buttons on the remote there is no response from the inside or outside units.
As a side note, the problems are likely due to the system being on a shared electrical supply, and in the summer heat, there may be a voltage loss occurring that is inducing problems in this unit.
As usual, thank you for any input, and Christmas is not far away - the beer stacketh up higheth!
Well, thanks again for the tech sheet, the btu research, and all the input and questions. Once again I have proven that lifting a refrigerator off the floor with one hand is no accurate way of determining the btu rating of a compressor. I had followed another tech on this, because I am a glutton for punishment and cannot escape the clutches of spilled vacuum oil and hidden dryers buried coyly in condenser lines. Out of curiosity I put a shot of nitrogen in and - voila! Leak at the discharge line 12 inches from port of compressor. I replaced the corroded line and replaced the absent R134a with R414b (hot shot) and will see how the repair holds up. Thanks again to all for all the input!
I've been replacing r134a w/ r409a since the 1990's. I just never was sold on the whole 134 thing.(I understand now that it is in the process of being phased out and replaced with something akin to 409) I'm still wondering what the btu rating is on this particular fridge. I am currently in contact with Embraco's website and trying to work with them on obtaining a full, cross-referenced database on compressors sold by them in N. America.
So far I have for this original compressor: 12049717, m0223816, and an unreadable embraco # EGY 51LP. I'm guessing at this point, that because it's a hi-efficiency unit, just under 20 ft. cubed, running 134a, that it will take an embraco 7.5, if such compressor exists. (approximately 750-815 btus)
Also, it might interest some of you: the blend type compressors, that run on alkybenzene oil, typically cost 1/3 of a standard replacement, last longer because of the hardier oil, and are much more forgiving of contamination and traces of wear in the sealed system, but it does require a flush of liquid and gas through the entire system (which should be done anyway, in all cases, after a burnout).
Ok, anyone want to hazard a guess on where to find the btu ratings, simply by knowing the original compressor part #?
by the way - I do use 134 and do change some compressors with original equipment - it just depends on the situation, but mostly it's 409.
I took a good look at this device. I kind of got the impression it was built about as strong as the direct drive coupler on the whirlpool machine - if the machine is overloaded, the part will break. It was just an impression.
I actually took the part home and put it on the bench. The solenoid that moves the shifter had an open winding, and there was quite a bit of wear on some of the contact parts. The machine went together fine and worked for another month, before I got another call on it. I replaced the machine with a Speed Queen ( because it's a coin op) and, unless I hear GE has made a modification that has improved the quality, will not recommend purchase/repairs to future customers.
On the whole, the repair is straightforward, with many steps in the disassembly. I have only worked on the one. The fact that it broke down again, soon after it's repair was a disappointment.