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Member Since 02 Mar 2007
Offline Last Active Apr 21 2015 04:15 PM

#318319 Frigidaire Dishwasher FDB710LCS0 timer stalled at 7 o'clock

Posted by reeferman on 21 April 2015 - 04:20 PM

Yes on both. It will advance to end of cycle if manually advanced to past 7 o'clock, one or two small clicks.


Soap door opens (at around 5/6 o'clock) and water valve works. The dishwasher just sits there in wash cycle.


I noticed the "wash" indicator light goes off and on throughout entire cycle, yet it stays off at 7 o'clock and the dishwasher just sits there in wash cycle.. That's why I am suspecting the timer. I'm going to use an ohmmeter and the tech sheet (which I located on this website by following the Samurai's instruction on how to search) and try to isolate the bad contact within the timer. I'm thinking the small amount of resistance on the blackened wire terminal at the hi limit thermostat may have caused an arc to jump at that point, inside the timer, seeing as the thermostat has been identified in other welcome posts by other members as a common culprit on this particular "mechanically timed" appliance. I'll post a follow up on this afterwards.


Also, I think I saw your likeness in a movie preview coming out in December. You haven't aged a bit. Thanks Wes.

#317997 Refer KitchenAid KSSO 48QT Z02 , ser. QW1953029 ice crystals in ice chute

Posted by reeferman on 16 April 2015 - 10:33 PM

That was it. Fast shipping.


Looks like the manufacturer improved the linkage between the motor and the door actuator by eliminating the long pot-metal arm, instead using a direct link and a slightly modified plastic actuator —  smoother, tighter linkage. It appears the old one had too much play after just a tiny bit of wear at both ends, but it was enough to cause the door to remain slightly "a jar".

#316932 Refer KitchenAid KSSO 48QT Z02 , ser. QW1953029 ice crystals in ice chute

Posted by reeferman on 03 April 2015 - 09:19 AM

How much frost are we talking? I would start with changing that door like was stated, but also make them aware of ice bins on the door will collect moisture with door opening and it will turn to frost. I replaced many of those motor assemblies and I can't say it's always completely stopped ice building up under the bucket. Usually, people grasp the concept the moisture in the air, and it can collect on the cold surfaces. I rarely get callbacks after that. Plus I explain to take the bucket out and clean it at least once a month to help. Obviously, if it's freezing up the entire chute, then it's an issue, but some building around the edges underneath the bucket I say it's going to keep happening from my experience on other models using the a similar dispenser.

This frost pattern develops first in the lower portion of the chute and creeps upward into the bucket. It is indeed "freezing up the entire chute". With a full load of ice in the bucket, it takes a week or ten days to "cement" the cubes until something plastic breaks in the bottom of the bin, when there is a "demand" for ice at the front of the freezer door. 


That's the guy ..
be advised, on some models with a stainless door skin, the door skin must be removed to access the icedoor assembly


I dreading removing the door skin made of white stained oak, and hope it does not become necessary.


known issues with the closer motor and linkage that operates these ice doors... I have changed at least five of them.

I had a feeling this was the case.


I believe that is called rime ice which I believe is a result of warm air getting in possibly through the chute not sealing. Sounds like you on the right track.

Rime ice. I've heard the term once a long time ago. Thanks to everyone...Samurai thanks for the photo and link. Visa card, it's your turn now. As is the habit I'm trying to form and gently install in others, I'll be back with some feedback.  


I think this website is likely the most valuable to my business of repair and insurance inspections, and am often humbled by the breadth and depth of those whose knowledge has helped me help others. 

#313068 Thermador DW won't drain DWHD630GCM/60

Posted by reeferman on 09 February 2015 - 07:22 PM




Thank you both for your input.

Stew: it tried to drain many times but very little water came out. Drain hose at connector clear. Pump runs. Cover in place. Checked inlet side of tub and found much debris.

Dan: Used a cable tie to go up into inlet and stuff did bubble out, and used your advice during the call. Alas, this did increase slightly the amount of drain water at sink but hardly. 

Samurai: I perused the posts and forums and studied the master's instructions. When I found the water supply hose pinched from the original installation I became suspicious and finally pulled the entire unit out. 


I found an odd plastic conglomeration of hoses and what looks like some kind of air gap on the left side of the dishwasher near the back. I could see through the opaque plastic at what looked like a dark and colored object. I removed one hose and shook out several popcorn kernels.


I re routed the inlet hose properly (unrelated to drain problem but it got me to pull the unit out) and re installed and tested it. That solved the problem.

Thanks again to StewartService and DaninKansas...

#309831 KitchenAid D/W 2-Drawer KUDD01DPPA-1 won't drain, won't test either

Posted by reeferman on 20 December 2014 - 09:50 AM

I tried swapping the motor and the same thing happened. I checked the windings of the stator and it ohms at 7.5. I was not able to read any fault code. I determined, after many hours of research, including this very helpful website, and figuring out how to take this thing apart, that it is the controller. 



Thank you Stewart and LI-NY!!


(Insert bow to Sensei here.)

#305237 Fridgidaire, Refer, FGHC2331PF0, Ice Dispenser not working, beeping on start-up

Posted by reeferman on 09 October 2014 - 05:24 PM

Wow! Thanks for the tech sheet !

Turns out I had not fully inserted one of the molex connectors/harnesses from the door to the display.

#296920 GE REFER M#ZISB420DMA display will not change after changing motherboard?

Posted by reeferman on 22 June 2014 - 11:55 AM

Customer purchased the parts and I did not write them down - believe or not I verified the part to the model no. by using repair clinic's website. ironic. So, sorry I did not write it down.


Immediately after checking my own connections, I opened the unit and the temperature went down 1 degree. I don't know if it had begun cooling or if I jiggled a wire, but it began cooling soon after I read your post. 


The cause of the motherboard failure was a burnt resistor marked as evaporator fan motor on the diagram, and when inspecting the evaporator fan motor it was covered with frozen droplets and dripping water both. My guess is it shorted and sent the short to the board and shorted the resistor, but that is only a guess...


Thanks durham.

#284134 Whirlpool Gas Range/Oven M#GS445LEMS 2

Posted by reeferman on 10 February 2014 - 07:12 PM

Nothing really for followup except it looks as though a vent to carry heat from the oven during clean cycle is directly below the area where the board is mounted. It looks like the board gets overheated. 


Thanks for the fast shipping RepairClinic…and the advice...

#278339 BOSCH washer M#WFL2060UC, fills, won't wash...

Posted by reeferman on 19 December 2013 - 05:42 PM

worn to the nub. great advice! thanks.

#269037 Microwave, KitchenAid, KCMS185J/145J, STUCK DOOR

Posted by reeferman on 22 September 2013 - 05:38 PM

Ooops! Forgot to leave some feedback on this. Slid a plastic card under the handle/latch area and opened the door. Part #5 had a broken tab/keeper that I glued and reinforced with epoxy. It's still working. Thanks for the info!

#260748 Bosch Dishwasher SHU9915UC-U11

Posted by reeferman on 10 July 2013 - 10:24 PM

Konichi-wa! (my apologies for spelling - no neighbors from Japan to learn from) 


It was a stuck float. I'm unaware of how it got that way so I'll keep an eye on this. Once again I feel the awesome force of this website, from the three of you...thank you.

#236947 AMCORAIRE mini-split M#UCHW-H12AF2 power problems and tech manual

Posted by reeferman on 27 July 2012 - 10:07 AM

I am unfamiliar with this type of air conditioning system: the mini-split. Are there parts available? Is there a technical manual or service diagnostic sheet for this particular unit?

It suffered a burned wire at the terminal connection inside the condensing unit a few weeks back. I repaired it, and it worked for a few weeks, but now there is another problem. The inside display shows 76 degrees, but when pressing buttons on the remote there is no response from the inside or outside units.

As a side note, the problems are likely due to the system being on a shared electrical supply, and in the summer heat, there may be a voltage loss occurring that is inducing problems in this unit.

As usual, thank you for any input, and Christmas is not far away - the beer stacketh up higheth!

#229975 GE Refrigerator M#PDS22M1SABB

Posted by reeferman on 13 April 2012 - 09:17 AM

sorry it took so long to close this thread....I eventually replaced the small circuit board behind the touch panel/thermostat buttons...after confirming the thermistors. Thanks for the great input!

#228347 Amana REFER M#ARB8057CSR compressor btu rating?

Posted by reeferman on 28 March 2012 - 12:47 AM

Well, thanks again for the tech sheet, the btu research, and all the input and questions. Once again I have proven that lifting a refrigerator off the floor with one hand is no accurate way of determining the btu rating of a compressor. I had followed another tech on this, because I am a glutton for punishment and cannot escape the clutches of spilled vacuum oil and hidden dryers buried coyly in condenser lines. Out of curiosity I put a shot of nitrogen in and - voila! Leak at the discharge line 12 inches from port of compressor. I replaced the corroded line and replaced the absent R134a with R414b (hot shot) and will see how the repair holds up. Thanks again to all for all the input!

#227570 Amana REFER M#ARB8057CSR compressor btu rating?

Posted by reeferman on 20 March 2012 - 07:46 PM

I've been replacing r134a w/ r409a since the 1990's. I just never was sold on the whole 134 thing.(I understand now that it is in the process of being phased out and replaced with something akin to 409) I'm still wondering what the btu rating is on this particular fridge. I am currently in contact with Embraco's website and trying to work with them on obtaining a full, cross-referenced database on compressors sold by them in N. America.

So far I have for this original compressor: 12049717, m0223816, and an unreadable embraco # EGY 51LP. I'm guessing at this point, that because it's a hi-efficiency unit, just under 20 ft. cubed, running 134a, that it will take an embraco 7.5, if such compressor exists. (approximately 750-815 btus)
Also, it might interest some of you: the blend type compressors, that run on alkybenzene oil, typically cost 1/3 of a standard replacement, last longer because of the hardier oil, and are much more forgiving of contamination and traces of wear in the sealed system, but it does require a flush of liquid and gas through the entire system (which should be done anyway, in all cases, after a burnout).
Ok, anyone want to hazard a guess on where to find the btu ratings, simply by knowing the original compressor part #?
by the way - I do use 134 and do change some compressors with original equipment - it just depends on the situation, but mostly it's 409.

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