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JJVBVA

Member Since 12 Mar 2007
Offline Last Active Aug 22 2013 11:54 AM

Topics I've Started

Imperial IR60 - Replacing Oven Manual Igniter Button

17 August 2013 - 04:25 PM

Just the push button stopped working correctly....doesn't reset after pushing. So I took it out and appears to be part of the whole unit with the thermocoupler and pilot light with the actual igniter attached (fixed) to the bracket with the others in the unit. I cut the wire to remove the push button. I was hoping the wire just connected on and could be pulled off. Not so. The push button appears to be part Imperial #1075. Some part descriptions say it includes the wire. If that is the way it comes, then I suspect I can just splice the new one on. Is that an acceptable practice? Or should I try to find the button with the igniter and bracket which would require me to swap the pilot and thermocoupler? Thank you.

Replacement for A.O. Smith FSG 40 222?

23 June 2011 - 06:42 PM

My 86yo mother was told she needed to replace her 17yo A.O. Smith FSG 40-222 (LNG) water heater because it is leaking. Was quoted $2K for a 50 gallon replacement. Not sure brand or whatever. Fact is she doesn't need the Cadillac. 40 gallon is fine. Only two people in the house. Does anyone know of models of a similar size that I could throw in there with minimal (ideally) no modifications? Not looking to spend a fortune, prefer something that is good for under $500 and readily available. Thanks.

Kenmore Electric Dryer - Model 110.66912691 - No Hot Heat

19 December 2008 - 08:09 AM

Dryer spins and runs forever and when done, there is a hint of wanting to heat up but there is not enough to dry anything - more like it was dried just by normal air running through the fabric while spinning.

1.  Vent is COMPLETELY clean.  There is absolutely no blockage.   Posilutely clean as a whistle. 

2.  Replaced heater element before doing any trouble shooting (dumb, I know)

3.  Continuity checks done on all fuses/thermostats.  OK I think.  The only question I have is on the thermostat on the blower housing - it has four terminals, the ones on the edge have continuity while the two in the middle do not.  I assume they close when the heat reaches a certain point and it's OK that when idle at room temp they are open.  Am I assuming correctly or is this the source of the problem?  Could a thermostat show continuity but be bad and if so, is the only way to diagnose it to replace it and then see if the problem is fixed? 

4.  Checked power - 240 at the outlet.  I did not check at the connection to the machine in the back to ensure it was getting all 240 (will do after Christmas when the machine and I are in the same place).

5.  I have not yet checked the timer switch but will do that when I finish item 4 above.   Do I just need to check for continuity?

 Is there anything else I could be checking?  Thanks in advance.


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