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Member Since 14 Apr 2007
Offline Last Active Dec 10 2011 06:52 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Noisy, Leaking; Whirlpool Portable Dishwasher

10 June 2011 - 10:51 AM


Based on the difficulty rating only being 2 out of 5 at the RepairClinic website, I'm assuming that this should be a fairly straightforward swap -- Would I be correct in this assumption? Any advice or tips that I should take into consideration before tearing into it? Do you happen to have a link to an exploded parts view of the unit or a teardown guide?

I'm going to order the part today, however the RepairClinic rep said that it may be a little while longer than normal before the part ships since they don't have it in stock... I'll post back with my questions/results during/after the swap.

thanks again!

In Topic: Kenmore Electric Range Model # 790.9622340C

21 May 2011 - 02:21 PM

Having never been familiarized with some of the finer operational details prior to owning this unit, or anything newer than the 70's (like I stated in the beginning, my last stove was vintage), I can honestly state that this is just another case of user ignorance.

Each dial, having it's own indicator LED, I assumed that each would operate in much the same way as the warmer plate in that when dialed in ANY direction other than off, the indicator LED would light up without hesitation. Upon "playing" with the unit further, I discovered that all of the "other" dials, with the exception of the Warmer element act as warning lights and only serve to indicate that the burner is HOT, even well after having been turned off. What threw me was the fact that each has a delay before lighting, unlike the Warmer element's LED indicator which turns on without hesitation when dialed to an ON position and the fact that it remained ON after being turned off whereas the Warmer element does not... These LEDs only turn on after reaching a critical temperature and shut off when they have cooled down enough to not warrant a severe burn.

So I guess it's safe to say that I have walked away from this experience a much more educated man, in several different areas, the most critical of which being that I should be buying all my parts from you guys -- Had I done so, I wouldn't be out $87 unnecessarily.

Thanks RP!

In Topic: Kenmore Electric Range Model # 790.9622340C

20 May 2011 - 12:45 PM

DOH! I didn't know about parts purchases through the Samurai... expensive lesson, urgh!

One'a the techs that was on-site that I was speaking with suggested an 80% chance that it was the relay board (simmer-select board since the unit apparently doesn't come with the cooktop lockout pcb, according to the parts rep) but since the relay boards are typically expensive, suggested that I start with the switch since it was a good bet it was one or the other. I didn't write down the model # to take with me and took it for granted they'd have it since they looked it up and held the part for me... Having said that, I called them back after swapping and discovering the swap didn't work to check status of the relay board and get the price -- go figure, it's 1/3 the price of the switch...

I've checked most of the connections, double checked the ones that I disconnected to clean the firewall due to the boil-over residue and oven light bulb/fixture replacement, and everything looks clean and connected the way that it should be. I've checked under the cooktop and all the wires appear to be connected and nothing seems out of the ordinary under there -- Are there any other "potential" points of failure that I should take into consideration? Am I safe to purchase the simmer-select board knowing, now, that the switch is good? Is the simmer-select board the only other potential point of failure, or can the oven-control board cause this kind of problem?

In Topic: Kenmore Electric Range Model # 790.9622340C

20 May 2011 - 11:41 AM

Swapped out the dual element burner switch, to no avail. The problem persists and I'm out $87+ on a non-returnable part... <sigh>

In Topic: Kenmore Electric Range Model # 790.9622340C

20 May 2011 - 12:48 AM

I've inspected the wiring from the back of the unit and it all looks pretty new... I've looked for breaks/cuts in the wiring and wiring insulation and the only thing I noticed was the usual tape/glue residue.

The only place I didn't inspect the wiring was under the cooktop... I'll recheck that and contact the local shop here and price/replace the switch and report back with my results. Thanks!

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