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delawaredrew

Member Since 02 May 2007
Offline Last Active Feb 12 2014 12:58 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: HELP! Whirlpool Duet front loader error code F1E2….

10 February 2014 - 05:59 PM

The MCU (inverter) is part of the motor on these.  Changing it isn't hard but it isn't cheap either.  However since the motor clearly works to some degree that makes that diagnosis a little more iffy.  CCU/MCU problems are a constant nuisance for all of us who work on these things.

With the motor action you see I lean toward the CCU because I've changed more CCUs than MCUs on these but anything is possible.  The two CPUs talk to each other through out the cycle so it could be either part or even a wiring issue.

 

You can try the standard test for these issues first but it isn't definitive really.

 Hopefully your dryer isn't stacked on top of the washer.

 

1)Unplug the washer and remove the top panel.  Screws (3) are along back edge. Panel slides back to remove.

2)Locate CCU at right front corner. It'll be the gray plastic thing with alot of blue and pink wires plugged in.

3)Look for the MI3 connector.  It will be a white connector with 3 blue wires.  You'll see the "MI3" molded in the plastic of the CCU case if you look carefully  That feeds instructions to the MCU down on the motor.  I think it is on the top edge but don't quote me.  Look along rear edge first.  If it is up top you'll probably need to dismount CCU to open the cover. There is a little tab that engages the metal frame near back of CCU. 

4) Plug power cord back in

5)Try to start a wash cycle.

 

Report the results back here.

 

Also do you have access to a multimeter to electrical testing?

 

For reference here are the MCU and CCU.  These guys allow returns on electrical parts which is great for problems like yours.

 

Part number: AP5271016

Part number: AP5271016

 

Part number: AP5646311

Part number: AP5646311

 

 

Anyone else with ideas please jump in!  


In Topic: Whirl washer WWP22ABHUSOO

10 February 2014 - 04:58 PM

The brake actuator is powered when it spins IIRC so it is a definite possibility.. if it is made with the same high quality as the shift actuator in the big versions that would not be a surprise.

 

Before I changed the brake actuator (since it would be a part order for me) I'd take quick look under agitator to check condition of wedge bolt and the basket drive tabs that engage hub.  You'd probably hear this problem but I think it is worth looking at.

 

I rarely see these mini machines so this advice is based of foggy memories and the manual.  If my assumption about brake operation is wrong I'm wasting your time.


In Topic: Maytag Bravos help

10 February 2014 - 03:55 PM

I'd guess that the sensor on the board has failed. Quick test is to disconnect the pressure hose from the board and start a cycle. This removes all other posibilities. If the sensor is working you should get an error quickly. F1 I think.
If it still gives LD error you can assume the board is faulty. Order from here and you can return if that is not the case.

In Topic: Kenmore HE5T Washer 110.47799701 F20 Error

01 February 2014 - 10:40 PM

Funny I have been trying to solve same issue for a customer and have resorted to changing the upper half of the wire harness after analog pressure switch and flowmeter did not fix it. In the past this has been the solution to about 1 of 20 of these issues.
In every case the machine would only do it occasionally and not when I was there. Last time it ran through the whole quick wash cycle while I stood there. It is one of a half dozen or so errors I see that give a pretty vague diagnosis.

In Topic: samsung model DV419AGW/XAA

01 February 2014 - 08:31 PM

It is possible for the belt to jam in the idle or motor pulley and still allow movement by hand. If you can rule that out by looking and feeling through back access then we'll move on. Belt should go down around motor pulley and then be tightened by white idler pulley. These dryers like to throw belts or I'd not harp on this. It is a very common thing.

We need to check that the motor is working normally. Set it to air dry or the lowest heat if you don't have a no heat option. Depress door switch and hold it in so machine thinks door is closed. Press start with free hand. If motor hums that is good right now. carefully try to assist it by turning drum in its normal direction. I think it spins counter-clockwise but not sure. Try both ways..

If that gets it going it is likely that your motor has lost the start winding and lacks enough torque to get moving. There is also a possibility that the CPU isn't powering it but not likely.

The motor is not a really hard change and if you order it from this site you can return it if it fails to be the problem. However I don't see many motor issues on these so I would like to definitively rule a belt issue or jam out since I see it very often.


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