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Member Since 02 May 2007
Offline Last Active Nov 29 2014 02:53 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Frigidaire GLTF2940FS1 Front Load Washer

29 November 2014 - 02:54 AM

I assume you left it unplugged for several minutes to try to reset the cpu?


1st - If it stopped working immediately after the other repair verify that the parts you changed/handled are fully plugged in .  The pump has only 1 plug but the lock mechanism has 3 separate plugs, I'd bet we've all forgotten simple things like that and been mystified more than once. 


2nd - A stuck button can freeze a computer. Check each button function, you should hear a distinct click when pressed.  If not does it beep or flash lights at you when you press a button?


3rd - E44 is a control board problem I think. A failed main PCB would not be a surprise on these.  But of course check all plugs on the board (both speed control at bottom and main PCB up top (user interface and main PCB are same part).


What do you mean by weak lock? Quick lock explanation - There are 2 lock mechanisms in 1 assembly. One is the click you hear immediately after pressing start. The second one is a "wax motor" that pushes a bar into place, the washer will not spin if the wax motor fails to engage.  The wax motor takes 30-60 seconds to lock and is most easily tested by setting the machine to spin; if it spins after a few minutes it works.  After locking the wax motor must cool to retract; that can also take 60 seconds.  It is a common failure; it'll drain but never spin if this is the case.


Good luck and let me know if anything changes, diagnosis over the web can be difficult.






In Topic: Whirlpool Crapypso GVW9959K02....

02 October 2014 - 08:30 PM

Sweet! Another Collapso gone to the recycler!  Hateful little demons....  I wonder if they exorcise the metal prior to recycling?  


Had to do a U-Joint a few weeks ago, I'd forgetten how fun they are.

In Topic: HELP! Whirlpool Duet front loader error code F1E2….

10 February 2014 - 05:59 PM

The MCU (inverter) is part of the motor on these.  Changing it isn't hard but it isn't cheap either.  However since the motor clearly works to some degree that makes that diagnosis a little more iffy.  CCU/MCU problems are a constant nuisance for all of us who work on these things.

With the motor action you see I lean toward the CCU because I've changed more CCUs than MCUs on these but anything is possible.  The two CPUs talk to each other through out the cycle so it could be either part or even a wiring issue.


You can try the standard test for these issues first but it isn't definitive really.

 Hopefully your dryer isn't stacked on top of the washer.


1)Unplug the washer and remove the top panel.  Screws (3) are along back edge. Panel slides back to remove.

2)Locate CCU at right front corner. It'll be the gray plastic thing with alot of blue and pink wires plugged in.

3)Look for the MI3 connector.  It will be a white connector with 3 blue wires.  You'll see the "MI3" molded in the plastic of the CCU case if you look carefully  That feeds instructions to the MCU down on the motor.  I think it is on the top edge but don't quote me.  Look along rear edge first.  If it is up top you'll probably need to dismount CCU to open the cover. There is a little tab that engages the metal frame near back of CCU. 

4) Plug power cord back in

5)Try to start a wash cycle.


Report the results back here.


Also do you have access to a multimeter to electrical testing?


For reference here are the MCU and CCU.  These guys allow returns on electrical parts which is great for problems like yours.


Part number: AP5271016

Part number: AP5271016


Part number: AP5646311

Part number: AP5646311



Anyone else with ideas please jump in!  

In Topic: Whirl washer WWP22ABHUSOO

10 February 2014 - 04:58 PM

The brake actuator is powered when it spins IIRC so it is a definite possibility.. if it is made with the same high quality as the shift actuator in the big versions that would not be a surprise.


Before I changed the brake actuator (since it would be a part order for me) I'd take quick look under agitator to check condition of wedge bolt and the basket drive tabs that engage hub.  You'd probably hear this problem but I think it is worth looking at.


I rarely see these mini machines so this advice is based of foggy memories and the manual.  If my assumption about brake operation is wrong I'm wasting your time.

In Topic: Maytag Bravos help

10 February 2014 - 03:55 PM

I'd guess that the sensor on the board has failed. Quick test is to disconnect the pressure hose from the board and start a cycle. This removes all other posibilities. If the sensor is working you should get an error quickly. F1 I think.
If it still gives LD error you can assume the board is faulty. Order from here and you can return if that is not the case.

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