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delawaredrew

Member Since 02 May 2007
Offline Last Active Feb 12 2014 12:58 AM

#284122 HELP! Whirlpool Duet front loader error code F1E2….

Posted by delawaredrew on 10 February 2014 - 05:59 PM

The MCU (inverter) is part of the motor on these.  Changing it isn't hard but it isn't cheap either.  However since the motor clearly works to some degree that makes that diagnosis a little more iffy.  CCU/MCU problems are a constant nuisance for all of us who work on these things.

With the motor action you see I lean toward the CCU because I've changed more CCUs than MCUs on these but anything is possible.  The two CPUs talk to each other through out the cycle so it could be either part or even a wiring issue.

 

You can try the standard test for these issues first but it isn't definitive really.

 Hopefully your dryer isn't stacked on top of the washer.

 

1)Unplug the washer and remove the top panel.  Screws (3) are along back edge. Panel slides back to remove.

2)Locate CCU at right front corner. It'll be the gray plastic thing with alot of blue and pink wires plugged in.

3)Look for the MI3 connector.  It will be a white connector with 3 blue wires.  You'll see the "MI3" molded in the plastic of the CCU case if you look carefully  That feeds instructions to the MCU down on the motor.  I think it is on the top edge but don't quote me.  Look along rear edge first.  If it is up top you'll probably need to dismount CCU to open the cover. There is a little tab that engages the metal frame near back of CCU. 

4) Plug power cord back in

5)Try to start a wash cycle.

 

Report the results back here.

 

Also do you have access to a multimeter to electrical testing?

 

For reference here are the MCU and CCU.  These guys allow returns on electrical parts which is great for problems like yours.

 

Part number: AP5271016

Part number: AP5271016

 

Part number: AP5646311

Part number: AP5646311

 

 

Anyone else with ideas please jump in!  




#284118 Whirl washer WWP22ABHUSOO

Posted by delawaredrew on 10 February 2014 - 04:58 PM

The brake actuator is powered when it spins IIRC so it is a definite possibility.. if it is made with the same high quality as the shift actuator in the big versions that would not be a surprise.

 

Before I changed the brake actuator (since it would be a part order for me) I'd take quick look under agitator to check condition of wedge bolt and the basket drive tabs that engage hub.  You'd probably hear this problem but I think it is worth looking at.

 

I rarely see these mini machines so this advice is based of foggy memories and the manual.  If my assumption about brake operation is wrong I'm wasting your time.




#283148 samsung model DV419AGW/XAA

Posted by delawaredrew on 01 February 2014 - 08:31 PM

It is possible for the belt to jam in the idle or motor pulley and still allow movement by hand. If you can rule that out by looking and feeling through back access then we'll move on. Belt should go down around motor pulley and then be tightened by white idler pulley. These dryers like to throw belts or I'd not harp on this. It is a very common thing.

We need to check that the motor is working normally. Set it to air dry or the lowest heat if you don't have a no heat option. Depress door switch and hold it in so machine thinks door is closed. Press start with free hand. If motor hums that is good right now. carefully try to assist it by turning drum in its normal direction. I think it spins counter-clockwise but not sure. Try both ways..

If that gets it going it is likely that your motor has lost the start winding and lacks enough torque to get moving. There is also a possibility that the CPU isn't powering it but not likely.

The motor is not a really hard change and if you order it from this site you can return it if it fails to be the problem. However I don't see many motor issues on these so I would like to definitively rule a belt issue or jam out since I see it very often.


#283141 samsung model DV419AGW/XAA

Posted by delawaredrew on 01 February 2014 - 06:42 PM

Quick test. Can you slowly turn the drum by hand? Quick guess is something stuck in blower.


#283120 Suds error sd

Posted by delawaredrew on 01 February 2014 - 03:30 PM

Suds errors are often detergent related. It's not so much that the pump doesn't pump suds (although it doesn't) but that the pressure switch can't tell the difference between suds and liquid. So the computer doesn't see an empty tub.

An easy explanation of when computers generate a suds error is that the program has a set time allowed for the drain part of the cycle. For instance many whirlpool front loaders allow 4 minutes. After that time if the cpu has not seen a change in the pressure switch reading the SD or Suds or whatever error is displayed (this is why clogged or bad pumps show Suds) ... some machines will have some sort of suds killing routine that is initiated and some will just stop. If the CPU still doesn't see a change in water level after continued pumping you usually see a long drain code like LD or F01 or F21.

When I see repeat drain errors I first try to tell if it actually is draining at a good rate... if so I will check the pressure hose for clogs by first blowing into it at the switch end. If that is okay test the switch itself (if no fill errors are happening this is less likely) then the wiring. On models with integrated pressure sensors obviously you can skip testing the switch.

About the Cabrio/Bravos/Oasis models - lint, socks and other items sometimes gather at the sump cover and block the pump intake. Also coins and other items can damage the plastic impellors of the pump; decreasing pump rates yet still moving water.

I only get about 30 minutes per call so I have a pretty set method of diagnosis for problems to eliminate common issues. It works for me but we all think differently. In general I go for simplest solution first unless I know that a certain component is likely; like the analog pressure switches and F35 error.

Hope that helps.


#240785 Kenmore (Whirlpool) 110.29962890 noisy, no spin

Posted by delawaredrew on 16 October 2012 - 01:12 AM

Maytag Bravos MVWB750Y c.2011 ... is a "direct drive", but not the usual direct drive
(I'm not sure of their repair history)




Whirlpool LXR7244PQ c.2003 is a "regular" direct drive




Yeah I should have specified that it is the newer style non-gearcase direct drive. By the time I started seeing WHPL washers the old (super-reliable) style were on the way out. I've learned the terminology from newer FL machines like LGs.
I have on older direct drive that I will keep running as long as I can. I bought it used for $75 a few years back and have never turned a screw on it. I actually like the design enough to have a entire spare machine in the garage.


#240784 Kenmore 10657572790

Posted by delawaredrew on 16 October 2012 - 12:55 AM

Reports after 10 hours with new cold control are good. Fridge is cycling normally so far. Thanks for the help!


#240754 Kenmore (Whirlpool) 110.29962890 noisy, no spin

Posted by delawaredrew on 15 October 2012 - 11:55 AM

Maytag Bravos XL MVWB750Y - that is a top load direct drive machine. Not hard to work on. Made by Whirlpool (like all modern Maytags) so internals are virtually identical to WHPL Cabrio and Kenmore Oasis versions. Unless you love a particular function on Maytag you are not getting anything distinctly unique by paying more for Maytag model. (Side note - There are lower end models being given the Cabrio/Oasis name, entirely different mechanical design; avoid these)

Here are some complaints I hear on these:
1) not enough water - it is a low water machine - if you like to control water level you are out of luck on these
2) banging noises - tub can and will contact cabinet walls once in a while - machine will usually halt to try to deal with it. not a functional problem
3) stuff in drain pump - small items left in pockets can a do get into pump - not a machine problem

Problem I see:
Some newer models (2008 - on?) have been killing bearings early. Look at Oasis bearing sticky on this forum. Can't tell if newest models have corrected this yet but hope WHPL has addressed it as they are not cheap machines. Maybe another member has heard something.


#237392 Samsung Front loading wf328 Washer, Delayed operation and ND error

Posted by delawaredrew on 06 August 2012 - 12:33 AM

I am on a mobile and having trouble getting a parts diagram. If I am remembering right this is the unit with thepump in the rear just inside the access panel. (If the pump is in the front, see if there is a white 90 degree elbow on the floor of the machine, on the left when looking in the rear panel. I am seeing quarters stuck in there frequently.)

Here's what I'd look for next... in order of ease. Before making any moves I'd see if it is actually pumping water out. If it is actually emptying out, and you are not looking at a simple sudsing issue; you're probably looking at a pressure switch but there are some things to check. If I walked into this here is my approach:


1) Pull the top off and gently disconnect the small hose from the pressure switch, blow down into that hose. It should freely pass air into the tub, if not figure out why (probably clogged at bottom). If your tech manual (taped to rear of machine) has specs for the pressure switch, test it. Diagnostics may allow you to enter service cycle while the machine runs and allow you to verify pressure switch operation if there is a display on this machine.

2) Verify that nothing is blocking the pump to wall drain hose and that there is no siphoning from the drain system back into machine, ie don't insert the drain hose deep into the wall.

3) Pull tub to pump hose off and look for items stuck in tub outlet and/or the heater above it. (Purex sheets, kids' socks, rags...).

If you can rule out all physical causes you may have a bad board but that is not common on these. In fact I cannot remember ever changing one for an issue like this - only a few display issues. Since you can verify 120v at the pump I'd only replace it as a last resort.

Good luck


#231313 Kenmore Elite Oasis HE (OL) error code

Posted by delawaredrew on 30 April 2012 - 03:53 PM

Rule out a stuck basket, spin by hand and slide up and down on shaft. This basket floats up to agitate and settles back down to spin. When in floating position the basket should not be coupled to anything, when full of water in diagnostics and agitating (C5 I think) the basket will not rotate with agitator except by slight drag from moving water. Common to get items under basket that block it from it's driven position.
Assuming that is is okay:
In order of likelihood and ease (at least to me):

--->Loose rotor bolt down below - Lean machine back to access rotor. It's the white round thing with permanent magnets inside. If rotor is not firmly bolted to shaft, pull it and examine splines in plastic, it's magnets, and look for evidence of contact with stator.
--->A loose main nut on bearing shaft or bad bearings. Above rotor and stator, you can see nut after removing rotor. Doesn't need to be super tight but should not be free either. You can usually hear bearing issues when it spins if they have progressed to this point.
--->RPS sensor issue.

Look at sticker on replacement board, what is part # on it? Color of sticker? Rev #?


#231309 Whirlpool Duet ht M# WFW9400SW01 Problem

Posted by delawaredrew on 30 April 2012 - 03:30 PM

A bad rotary encoder on User Interface (display) board or just a bad UI board can cause selection issues and explain weird code on screen, does wobbling knob around cause selection to jump around? Also pop the top off and look for cut or abraded wires going to UI and at CCU.

As for the lock; if lock is engaging, that usually means the pin switch is reporting the closed door and allowing the lock to throw. There is a second switch that tells CCU (Main Control) that lock is engaged, that would cause a door lock error if not functional. The more expensive thing is if the CCU isn't seeing the lock switches due to internal CCU error. I've seen both parts fail.

To answer your question : the CCU holds programming and cycle info in EEPROM, if that is corrupted your CCU is dead, or at least beyond reasonable repair.


#231303 Cabrio WTW6200SW2 - looking for leak

Posted by delawaredrew on 30 April 2012 - 02:55 PM

I've seen many cases where the large nut is loose and causes F51, but it looks like a leak through the tub seal above the bearings to me... not a good thing. Do bearings make noise when it spins, a clicking or roaring noise? It'll F51 due to bearing drag.

I've done many of these bearing jobs on 2-3 yr machines. If water has been passing the seal into bearings, they will fail sooner than later as water washes bearing lube out. The lube and water mix is a nasty black mess coming out around the shaft, when I see that I do the bearings. Kit comes with bearings, shaft, and seal. Instructions are included. You'll need the special tool for best results. It is not a bad job, but it'll take some time the 1st attempt. There are "how to" guides online and here also.

Bearing kit

Special tool


#231299 2 Whirlpool duet dryers same Problem f-31 code

Posted by delawaredrew on 30 April 2012 - 02:26 PM

It's pretty rare to see the same problem in 2 machines in one location and usually it is in the building supply so I'd like to positively rule out a cord or house wiring issue if I had this job. Power supply issues can come and go and drive people crazy. Sometime a small thing like how deep the plug is inserted in an outlet can change everything. Personally I'd suspect the outlet (whether old or new).

Some ?s first : When does error occur (at start, after a few minutes....)? Loss of heat or control panel function? I'd expect this error to occur primarily when the control loses power. New outlet, old outlet, 3 or 4 prong cord, new cord each time or reused?

-First off I'd visually look at the prongs of the power cord to see if there are burns or other physical evidence of arcing; such as discoloration. If so your outlet is likely the problem. Also check for any internal issues in the cord, check continuity from prong to terminal on each wire while flexing the cord.
If you aren't using a meter just start the machine, verify full function (heat at vent, control lights, motor etc..) and start twisting, flexing, and moving the cord and plug. If the error pops up or the machine stops you're on the right track. Try to repeat a few times to rule out a random coincidence.

-If that looks ok I'd look for any evidence of voltage on the neutral and ground and/or significant drops in voltage at terminals on dryer while it is running and heating. Check current draw (amps) at the same time if you can.

Good luck!


#222721 LG washer model WD-10481TP Won't Spin

Posted by delawaredrew on 03 February 2012 - 10:18 PM

This is also foreign to me but assuming it is similar to other LGs I'd pull the back panel off and see if it it making any noise when failing to spin. If it has the smaller removeable panel, check continuity from plugs at bottom left up to the Hall effect switch(which tell comp how fst rotor is moving), one the ones I see there are 4 wires (I think). I've seen several LG direct drive have broken wires where the are attached to the tub rear. Does it hum when it runs or fails to run?


#222719 whirlpool duet , GHW9150PW4 washing machine will not start

Posted by delawaredrew on 03 February 2012 - 10:00 PM

I won't (ever) say our host is wrong, his sword could be very sharp and I don't wish to find out); I wouldn't expect the lock to turn off the control panel. I'd expect a beep when you push start indicating that it isn't seeing the door locked, but the panel to remain lit.
What kind of diagnostic tools do you have - specifically I'd like to see you use a Volt/Ohm/multi meter to determine if there is DC power at the panel and coming off the main board..

IF you do not have a meter, pop the top off by the screws on the back edge and look for damage on the ribbon cable going along the right side from control on rear to UI panel, especially up front where it'll pass through the metal into control area.
Further info:
1-No codes show?
2-any lights stay on?


Some random ideas, bad DC transformer on main board or worn wiring.
Stuck power button on UI (user interface) panel, does stop/cancel or power button feel normal? I just changed one of these.
Bad main board (same as first idea from owner's perspective.)
Shorted pump - (usually would error out not go dark)

Personally I'd lean toward a bad board or wiring, but hope for stuck button.

Post the 1st 5 digits of the serial for us, that'll give manu date. Some of those controls had week solder joints and crap out on you.





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