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Member Since 02 May 2007
Offline Last Active Nov 29 2014 02:53 AM

Topics I've Started

Kenmore 10657572790

15 October 2012 - 11:27 AM

HI guys...
I'm trying to help a friend by phone on his kenmore side x side. It frequently warms up and allows all to melt. He says that it restarts when he turns the control (in beer side) to full cold and back. It's been doing this for several months and when it cools it goes all out and freezes everything. I'm leaning toward the defrost control board but am not sure what function the thermostat plays in this unit.

Is the thermostat control (at the knob) just a potentiometer to tell the board what to do or does it still have some thermo control? The machine does not have ice on freezer wall or anything that I would look for as a sign of defrost heater failure. I would have expected a unit problem to have progressed toward failure by now.

I don't work on fridges at all now and only ever worked on GE so this unit is not familiar to me.


York GY8S BLOWING 3A FUSE? Help! I'm cold!

29 January 2012 - 07:08 PM

Long story but here's the background: I have a York gy8s080b16dh11b furnace that is driving me crazy. For the last couple years it has blown the 3a fuse on the board several times when we first turn the heat on before deciding to work normally for the remainder of the winter. Weird but as long as it was heating I was not going to spend too much time on it other than to swap the fuse out a few times until it decided to work. I work on home appliances so I know I shouldn't have ignored it this long but who wants to go home and crawl under their own house?

This fall it blew a bunch of fuses, more than previously. I finally was at the thermostat when it happened and saw that the heat anticipator glowed and sparked before the fuse blew. It was a heat pump style thermostat, unnecessary for the gas furnace we have so I swapped it for a programmable Honeywell and all was good. I did find a few nicks on the wires behind the thermo so I pulled some slack up and cut them off just as a precaution.

2 days ago it began blowing fuses again, sometimes it would run for a little before blowing the fuse but never more than a few hours. Thinking that the fuse was on the dc circuit going up to the thermo I inspected that wiring and there were rubs through the wire sheath and nicks all over where someone had stapled it along the beams. So I replaced the whole run from thermo down to furnace. No change.. :(

It powers up normally, with a heartbeat green flash until the thermo calls for heat, then the fuse blows instantly...
Recalling the last errors gives me a 3 flash, a 6 flash, a 3 flash, and then a 7 flash. I can account for these errors as it was pressure hose was clogged 2 yrs ago.

Anyone think there is anything to do other than buy a new board?

Techs - LG Top Loader hub nut tool? 38mm spanner

15 January 2012 - 02:08 AM

Anyone know if there is an official hub nut tool from LG for the big 38mm nut on the new Kenmore and LG toploaders?
Mod#'s are 796.292.72000 or 020x0 for the Kenmores and WT 5101 OR WT5001 as LGs.

Both service manuals show a tool on pg 25 but have no part #. They are different tools, but both serve to remove that 388mm hub nut. I can probably find pics if that helps, but if you have one of these you know it I'd think.
1)a flat spanner kinda like a GE toploader style, but curved similar to motorcycle shock adjuster wrenchs if tht helps.
2) Looks like a 38mm socket attached to a T-breaker bar.

I made up a #2 style for a job but was unsucessful after 1.5 hrs of serious sledging. Heating and/or breaking it would be difficult due to the plastic outer tub so close.

THe cheapo Harbor Freight 388 impact socket was a little shallow ( deep well would be nice) but it never slipped off the nut. Of course working insde that tub I could only hit 1/10 of the force I could generate due the short swing to avoid destroying the basket. I do feel that I was getting a pretty solid hit though, I always got the GE and WHPL nuts in a similar size basket.


York gy8s080b16dh11b problems :(

04 October 2010 - 06:16 PM

Hi all,
I have a York GY8SB1611DH11B furnace that is giving me problems. I work on gas appliances all the time so it seemed that I could take a stab at it.

It has been failing to ignite for several days, The ventor would run then the blower but no ignition.  I finally got under the house to check it out today. It was flashing the code for a pressure switch problem and indeed the port off the ventor was clogged with grit.  So I cleaned that out and it tried to start, even going so far as opening the valve. 

The ignitor was not connected at that point so it didn't ignite but seemed like it would have.  It went into lockout due to lack of ignition.  Being impatient I turned off the power to it for a few minutes thinking it might reset the board.  After powering it back up it blew the 3amp fuse on the board when it tried to start.

I replaced that fuse and the indicator light lit up green so I figured all was ok.  However when I turned the thermostat up it blew it again.  I replaced the fuse again, and disconnected the ignitor just to be certain it wasn't shorting it out and tried again.  It blew the fuse again.

What do you think?  I'm thinking that board has a issue like a bad relay, but it seems like a heck of a coincidence that it would fail just from being power cycled?  What exactly does the fuse protect on this? 


Working for Sears?

23 February 2010 - 09:03 AM

I'm considering a position as a laundry tech for Sears and wanted to know what people thought of working for them?  I was at GE for a while doing mostly warranty work and the 10-12 calls per day thing really can wear a guy out, I assume Sears is the same?  Mainly I got sick of 12 hour days and the constant push to sell contracts, GE required alot of sales and meetings mainly revolved around who didn't sell enough and bring in enough cash. They measured everything from time worked/calls per day, time in calls, revenue per call, etc...

Many of my problems with GE stemmed from the huge area I had to cover, with 3 or more hours of drive time per day being routine, add the call volume in and days got really long really fast.  You just couldn't get your 8 completed calls/8hrs ratio with those sort of drive times without really being a little sleazy.  You either had to screw the customer or trick the GE computer system. 

Pay was good, about $25/hr, and the time and a 1/2 OT pay rocked but many times I just hated the job and would dread going to work.  They also requires alot of my free time to spent making phone calls after hours, dealing with parts shipments, doing paperwork, etc...

So anyone like working for Sears?  Hate it?  Does the description of GE seem like Sears?  PM me if you don't want to post here 'cause you still work there...

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