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Member Since 30 Jul 2005
Offline Last Active Apr 05 2014 07:45 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: KUDE45CVWH2 soap on door

09 November 2010 - 06:28 PM

This DW looks like a very new model, which may mean you have not had it long.   As of July 2010 all detergent manufacturers were required to remove phosphates from their detergent.  The phosphates helped to hold hard water minerals in suspension in the water.  Now they are able to leach out of the water onto tubs and dishes.

If what your seeing is a white film, it might not be soap but rather hard water deposits.  See if your detergent box says phosphate free. It it does, run the DW with a DW cleaning solution such as Glisten.  The citric acid in Glisten, or other similar products will remove the hard water build up if this what your problem is.  If soften your water this shouldn't be an issue and what your seeing may in fact be detergent. If it is detergent, it might be due to poor water circulation which I believe is what  Mosstaffa was trying to verify with his questions.




In Topic: Matag DW DWU9200 and water spotting wont go away

04 October 2010 - 05:55 PM


It sounds like a different problem, but I'm passing you the following information.

I recently received a service bulletin from GE regarding white film on glasses and dishes.  See if your detergent has the words phosphate free on the container. GE has stated that the lack of phosphates in the detergent causes certain minerals to leach out of the water. Perhaps your starting to experience the  problem.  I'm not sure if Afresh, recommended by appl.tech containes citric acid or not, but running a cycle with citric acid added to the water was suggested by GE.  I do see where you used white vinegar, which might contain citric acid.  GE says to run the clean glasses and dishes, which have the film on them, with the citric acid and no detergent.  You might want to try this.

Good Luck

In Topic: Bosch Axxis (WAS20160UC) leaking out front door?

20 September 2010 - 07:14 PM

Any compromise to the rubber sleeve, also called door gasket, can cause a leak. Even hair between the glass and sleeve canl cause a leak, so a tear certainly will. 

Because you didn't include the last 2 numbers following the back slash at the end of the model number, I can't look up the exact part number you need.  However, looking at various models, the part should cost around $50 to $75.

Not too difficult a job, just takes time to take the front off the washer for easier access to the rear band that holds the sleeve to the outer tub.

I hope this helps


In Topic: fisher paykel gwl11 beeps

13 May 2010 - 05:50 PM

2nd third and rinse lights in binary numerals add up to an error code 100. I could not find and error code 100. I always check a few starting points and F&P's.
1st: Make sure the end of your drain hose is not in standing water. ie: inserted too far into the drain pipe and the end is in a trap at the bottom of the stand pipe

2nd: If washer is not draining see if the diverter valve is working or if the linkage on it is broken.

3rd: See if the pump will run.

4th: If 2 and 3 work, then check for obstructions in the hose.

If all these check out OK, I'm guessing you need a new control. Be sure to confirm the pump is OK before putting a new control in. Pumps might be the number one cause of the control going bad and may need replaced before putting the new control in.

On an GWL11 the pump is a 110v device. You could test both the diverter valve and pump by making a cheater cord. Use an old lamp cord that still has the wall plug in on it. You apply 1/4 inch female connectors to the other ends of the cord. Attach to the terminals on the valve or pump (depending upon which one your testing) Plug the other end into 110 volt outlet. If testing the pump you can see it turning. If it's noisy it's probably going bad. If testing the diverter valve, you will see a plunger come out of the body of the wax motor that the wires are attached to. That plunger moves a flapper in the valve that diverts the water between the drain hose or recirculates it into the washer.

In Topic: LG front load washer WM1832CW taking off and across the floor

13 May 2010 - 05:32 PM

Any front load washer bearing and tub replacement takes about 3 hours from start to finish. Unlike the Subaru, you don't replace the bearing. Bearings on front loaders are pressed into the rear 1/2 of the outer tub. You have to buy the outer tub. If your going to the trouble to replace the rear 1/2 tub, I suggest replacing the spin basket also. There will likely be rusting of the shaft that sticks through the bearing and to which the motor rotor is attached. As for the dancing washer, this is the number one reason I get called out on LG's. A bad rear bearing may be contributing to the problem but the most common cause is washer loading and the type of floor it's located on. After 7 years the rubber feet are probably glazed and need roughed up with sand paper or even replaced.

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