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Member Since 01 Jul 2007
Offline Last Active Oct 29 2012 05:17 PM

Topics I've Started

GE XL44 Gas Range: On All Burners, No Spark

25 October 2012 - 09:46 PM

I have a 16 year old GE XL44 Gas Range, model JGBP30WEW1WW.

The spark ignition has stopped working on all 4 burners. It's worked fine all these years (the only other issue I've had with the range is the oven burner ignitor, which I've replaced twice over time).

I'm guessing maybe the spark module, but I'd like to make sure it's not the wiring. Can you help me troubleshoot to make sure I don't replace the module for no good reason? Thanks for any advice!

Goofed the Whirlpool lid switch wiring?

16 October 2012 - 09:40 AM

Hey there

This will probably qualify as the dumbest post today. I replaced the microswitch (Cherry E13) in the lid switch assembly on my Kitchenaid (Whirlpool) KAWE900S. Now, when it's time for the spin cycle, nothing happens until you open the lid.

Open the lid, spin. Close the lid, spin stops.

There are two wires on the switch: Violet and Gray. Is this is as simple as reversing the connections? Or is the switch assembly maybe wrong?


YouTube of my Noisy Motor. Too Noisy?

30 September 2012 - 03:45 PM

Hey all,

I have a Kitchenaid KAWE900S washer from 1987. I have a problem, and here are the symptoms:

Symptom 1: Lately my wife has noticed a bit of a high-pitched "chirring" sound when the spin cycle starts.

Symptom 2: Today I was starting a medium-large load and after filling the machine began agitating, and the "chirring" sound was constant. I think I may have detected a very, very faint hot rubber smell. I needed to add a couple of items to the wash, and when I did, the slight additional "load" on the motor disengaged something, and now the motor was only humming (loudly). To keep the motor from overloading, I pushed Pause, then tried to restart. Just buzzing. Tried a few times, no change.

Symptom 3: I powered the machine off to cancel the load, then powered back on again and started a Spin cycle. The two-second normal agitation (to set up the gear change) did not run; just the loud motor buzz. Then pause. Then the Spin started; again, only got the buzz. I grabbed the machine at the top and gently rocked/jiggled it a bit (I used to play pinball, I knew how to give it a little "English" ) and suddenly the machine "popped into" spin and the pump instantly began draining the tub.

I figured the machine was not doing well "under load" so I let it drain, then took a few items out and filled the machine only to medium. It rain fine, no odd noises!

I replaced the transmission, clutch and drive coupler with new FSP parts just 3.5 years old and all have been running great. The machine usually only runs with medium size loads, nothing really heavy (considering it's an XL-capacity machine). I wonder if the chirring sound is a slipping driver coupler, or something else?

Any advice appreciated. Thanks!

Trane XL80 TUD120R954K1 Won't Light

04 December 2011 - 01:52 AM

Hey there!

I have been out of town for about a week but my wife reports that our 7-year old (or so) furnace is heating only intermittently. And all day today, it didn't light at all.

The filter is only a month old, so airflow is good. I removed and cleaned with steel wool the flame sensor. Then I checked the sequence of ops, which for this unit is (according to install manual): call for heat; run some pressure sensor checks; energize draft blower; while draft blower comes up to speed, the pressure switch contacts will engage and the ignitor warms up for approx. 20 seconds; gas valve energizes; flame sensor confirms that ignition has been achieved within the 4 second ignition trial period...and away we go.

Okay, in my case, the board and pressure switches click; the board sends power to the ignitor (which I read with a digital meter at 94.5v) for 17 sec, it DOES NOT GLOW at all; the gas valve opens for 4 seconds, and then closes; the board cuts voltage to the ignitor; and the main blower runs for about 3 mins until a the system tries to restart. After a few tries, the board fault light issues two flashes, the code for "External lockout, no. of retries exceeeded."


1) Is the ignitor bad, or the board? (Ignitor is a White-Rodgers 768-A silicon nitride "stick.")

2) If the ignitor is bad, did it go bad over time because voltage sent by board was too high?

I read the specs; this ignitor is rated for 80v. I also read that too much voltage can be caused by a bad system ground. I noticed that the 6" green wire that is attached to the ground screw inside the furnace's junction box is stripped, but not connected to anything. It appears it may have been attached at one time to the cabinet interior, or jammed into the cabinet door hinge. There is nothing else nearby it would have been connected to. So,

3) How is a ground usually achieved with the ground wire from the furnace's junction box?

Thanks for your help. Winter in Chicago with no heat while hubby travels = HOSTILE WIFE.

Kenmore Elite Trio, bottom freezer, 596.78582803 - Ice is covering freezer bottom, wate...

15 October 2011 - 02:57 PM

I have a Kenmore Elite trio (bottom-mount freezer), model 596.7857*, about one year old, and lately we are noticing puddles of water on the floor near the left front. Inside, the bottom of the freezer section is completely covered with about a half-inch of ice. The puddles appear about once a day, no particular timing. There is a frozen "water trace" going up the left back corner of the freezer cabinet.

I can't see how/where the water is exiting the fridge; somewhere underneath? I can't see the condenser drip pan underneath.

1) Should I chip away all the ice and see if I can find a drain that's blocked? Where is the water coming from that's getting frozen?
2) How is the water actually reaching the kitchen floor?


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