Jump to content

Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.

Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

To get started, click here.

Already a member of Appliantology? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.



Member Since 06 Jul 2007
Offline Last Active Mar 12 2015 12:33 PM

#239240 Kenmore(Whirlpool) French Door Bottom Freezer 596.75533400 No Water Flow

Posted by mehoss on 15 September 2012 - 08:39 AM

OK, well never got back to THIS one, but many similar repairs later, I can honestly say that the HEAD UNITS suck big time with these new water filter models. Seems whirlpool and GE and Korean units all have this issue. I performed an autopsy on one of the head units and found that the rubber seals that allow you to remove the filter and keep the water from spilling out were expanded. This may be from the wonderful chemicals added to the drinking water around here. I now tell my customers that I will bypass the Head unit and install a filter on the back of the fridge. It's a great solution because the replacement filters are about $12 and not $40 each.

#239238 Icemaker - happens to be subzero whirlpool modular

Posted by mehoss on 15 September 2012 - 07:46 AM

I hope this post helps someone out there! Had a difficult repair this week, customer complained about no ice. Water was not getting into the icemaker.

Shorted V-L to manually activate the water valve. This checks several things: water supply/water valve/frozen inlet. Water flowed into IM.
So I replace the entire Ice Maker, no joy.
Turns out that when you short V-L, you are sending 120 volts to the water valve, BUT the ice maker sends the voltage in SERIES with the Mold Heater (72 ohms). So you are getting using ohms law (assuming the water valve is ~175 ohms) about 85-90 Volts to the water valve. It turned out that this valve refused to operate at the normal voltage below 120, but when full 120v "test" voltage was applied, it opened up just nicely.
Replaced the valve, all is well. By the way, I tried replacing just the valve coil to no avail, it turns out that the sticking mechanical guts of the valve were requiring the extra voltage to get them to move.
Thought I would share this. Now I need a test rig that contains a 72 ohm resistance to properly test the water valve in the future.
Also on the subzero 532, you can replace the valve without having to jack up the unit. Remove the ONE screw that you can easily see and get to where the water enters the valve. This will allow the valve to slide out of the bracket to be replaced. No need to remove any other screws, especially since you cant see them or remove them easily.

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact

Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics