Posted by DADoESTX
on 01 September 2014 - 05:36 PM
Suggest disasembling the machine to remove and clean the basket and for access to clean inside the tub. Then make an effort to run the cleaning cycle more frequently and/or adjust the household washing habits accordingly to ward-off residue accumulation --
avoid fabric softener
use only HE detergent at minimal doses per the load size & soil level (HE detergent CAN oversuds)
run a hot wash on a recurring basis, perhaps on a weekly load of whites/towels with a small dose of chlorine bleach
The pump has nothing to do with household water pressure, nor is it involved in filling the dishwasher.
Filling IS by household water pressure, same as running water into a sink or bathtub.
The pump functions to recirculate the water through the spray arms. The arms rotate by Newton's 3rd law of motion ... every force produces an equal and opposite force ... meaning the jet-force of the water spraying out of the arm's nozzles makes it rotate ... same as a lawn sprinkler.
The pump also, of course, drains the water between the various wash and rinse phases. Some dishwashers use one (reversing) pump & motor for recirculation and draining. Others have separate pumps for recirculation and draining.
Running it in diagnostic without water may lessen the load enough to not overheat. Fill the tub fill, run the pump to drain, see if it shuts off then. Dismount and visually examine it for bearing play.
There's no thermal protection on the SmartDrive motor far as I'm aware.
GWL08 doesn't have a thermistor in the mixing chamber, although a cap/seal is there. The thermistor is inside the motor board, which docks to a water port on the mixing chamber for water flow into a heatsink chamber mounted on the board ... the board is water cooled. Cold water may dribble briefly during agitation (not during spin) to refresh the mixing chamber if/when the board needs more cooling.
Check that the spray arm isn't split somewhere on the seams, water would spew out where it shouldn't and throw-off the spray pressure for water level sensing. Try swapping the arms since the other drawer apparently is working OK.
7.5 to 8.5 ohms on each of the three motor windings. Test on the 6-wire motor connector at the controller board, between terminals 1 & 2, 1 & 3, and 2 & 3.
GWL10 is not an HE machine, a normal amount of detergent should be used. It runs the EcoActive wash process, then fills to a normal level for the agitated wash period.
Try running the Perm Press cycle on a load. Perm Press does not run the EcoActive phase so does not make use of the diverter for recirculation ... it may finish OK if the diverter is involved in whatever is the problem.
The tumblers rotate in only one direction during "agitation" so the load continually climbs up one side of the basket and flips over. The tumblers are supposed to turn a little in the opposite direction of normal tumbling when the motor first reverses for spin ... for purpose of moving the load down to the center of the basket to balance for spin.
The error occurs if a catalyst cycle is run after any previous cycle, without pulling the power plug first to reset the valve. When the failure occurs ... it fills for a few seconds, starts low speed speed spin and the water drains instead of recirculating. Some fill occurs in an attempt to top-off the catalyst fill level but since drain continues, F4 triggers.
The error does *not* occur If the power plug is disconnected to reset the drain valve *before* a catalyst cycle is run.
The problem is, why does the drain valve *not* release at end of the final spin? I don't think it's physically sticking, because disconnecting the power cord immediately releases the valve without otherwise touching the machine.