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DADoESTX

Member Since 24 Aug 2007
Offline Last Active Today, 08:52 AM

#300298 GWL10 FISHER PAYKEL SPIN ISSUE

Posted by DADoESTX on 04 August 2014 - 03:44 PM

Check for 33 ohms on the pump.

 

Running it in diagnostic without water may lessen the load enough to not overheat.  Fill the tub fill, run the pump to drain, see if it shuts off then.  Dismount and visually examine it for bearing play.

 

There's no thermal protection on the SmartDrive motor far as I'm aware.




#296178 Fisher Paykel GWL08 leaks water

Posted by DADoESTX on 11 June 2014 - 06:28 PM

GWL08 doesn't have a thermistor in the mixing chamber, although a cap/seal is there.  The thermistor is inside the motor board, which docks to a water port on the mixing chamber for water flow into a heatsink chamber mounted on the board ... the board is water cooled.  Cold water may dribble briefly during agitation (not during spin) to refresh the mixing chamber if/when the board needs more cooling.




#294504 KUDD01DPPA - Fill Failure Error

Posted by DADoESTX on 24 May 2014 - 12:21 PM

Check that the spray arm isn't split somewhere on the seams, water would spew out where it shouldn't and throw-off the spray pressure for water level sensing.  Try swapping the arms since the other drawer apparently is working OK.

 

7.5 to 8.5 ohms on each of the three motor windings.  Test on the 6-wire motor connector at the controller board, between terminals 1 & 2, 1 & 3, and 2 & 3.




#288773 Kenmore Washer 110.92283100 tearing clothes/maybe?

Posted by DADoESTX on 22 March 2014 - 07:11 PM

Does she use chlorine bleach and pour it directly onto the items?




#282850 Fisher Paykel GWL 11

Posted by DADoESTX on 29 January 2014 - 08:53 PM

Bearing replacement and illustration of the tool kit is in the GWL03 and GWL15 service manuals.  GWL11 manual is a supplement to accompany the GWL03 manual.




#280598 Fisher & Paykel GWL10U2 Top Load Washing Machine-Requires Manual "Adv...

Posted by DADoESTX on 09 January 2014 - 10:17 AM

1st, 5th, 7th, 8th

128 + 8 + 2 + 1 = 139

139 is not a valid fault code.

 

GWL10 is not an HE machine, a normal amount of detergent should be used.  It runs the EcoActive wash process, then fills to a normal level for the agitated wash period.

 

Try running the Perm Press cycle on a load.  Perm Press does not run the EcoActive phase so does not make use of the diverter for recirculation ... it may finish OK if the diverter is involved in whatever is the problem.




#275941 Fisher Paykel DD603 - U1 Fault

Posted by DADoESTX on 30 November 2013 - 08:46 PM

Proper level is sensed by the control board per when the pump is fully primed.

 

Examine the spray arm for a crack or split where the halves are sealed together.  Water spewing out of a split instead of properly out of the spray nozzles will throw the pump-sensing off kilter.




#274409 Stunned and amazed!

Posted by DADoESTX on 15 November 2013 - 09:54 PM

They're not AC motors.  They run on DC, 12v or some such, IIRC, fed by the motherboard.  It pulses the current rapidly to vary the speed.




#274180 Stinky Clothes - Thanks Whirlpool WFW9500TW01

Posted by DADoESTX on 13 November 2013 - 10:21 AM

There's also the problem that the dosage measurement lines in the liquid detergent product caps are essentially *invisible*.

 

The consumer has no idea where is Line 1 or Line 2 ... so for lack of anything else they toss in an *entire capful*.




#273975 Maytag Neptune fav6800aww error dc

Posted by DADoESTX on 11 November 2013 - 08:59 PM

The tumblers rotate in only one direction during "agitation" so the load continually climbs up one side of the basket and flips over.  The tumblers are supposed to turn a little in the opposite direction of normal tumbling when the motor first reverses for spin ... for purpose of moving the load down to the center of the basket to balance for spin.




#273974 GSX9885JQ0 Whirlpool Catalyst

Posted by DADoESTX on 11 November 2013 - 08:55 PM

The error occurs if a catalyst cycle is run after any previous cycle, without pulling the power plug first to reset the valve.  When the failure occurs ... it fills for a few seconds, starts low speed speed spin and the water drains instead of recirculating.  Some fill occurs in an attempt to top-off the catalyst fill level but since drain continues, F4 triggers.

 

The error does *not* occur If the power plug is disconnected to reset the drain valve *before* a catalyst cycle is run.

 

The problem is, why does the drain valve *not* release at end of the final spin?  I don't think it's physically sticking, because disconnecting the power cord immediately releases the valve without otherwise touching the machine.




#273045 FIsher Paykel GW11 odor

Posted by DADoESTX on 03 November 2013 - 09:08 PM

A little water remaining in the tub sump is normal.




#270400 Fisher & Paykel Electrical issues...

Posted by DADoESTX on 07 October 2013 - 11:39 AM

I'm not so much familiar with the Aus/NZ-specific models but MW059 is a Phase 5 machine so should be equivalent to US GWL10.

 

Off-balance switch stuck in activated-mode would trigger an off-balance alarm, but doesn't seem that's what's happening in your case.

 

The panel comes on momentarily, then goes dead each time?  Or it came on once, now is continuously dead?  A dead board pretty much calls for replacement of it.

 

A fairly common leak source in the console is the thermistor seal on the incoming water mixing chamber.




#269297 Fisher Paykel GWL11 Does not rinse

Posted by DADoESTX on 24 September 2013 - 09:26 PM

Normal cycle progress is EcoActive wash phase, fill to selected or sensed water level, agitation, then drain when the rinse light comes on.  Rinse phase of the cycle is a series of several different functions, the "Rinse" designation is simply an information label ... but the first operation it does at the Rinse phase is drain the wash water.  If the machine goes "dead" (nothing happens, no sounds, no humming) at that point then the problem is (theoretically) related to the pump not running, for whatever reason -- bad controller, shorted/broken wire, bad pump (just 'cause it spins freely doesn't mean it isn't electrically bad).

 

Have you checked the pump with a meter?  It should read 7 ohms when cool.

 

So, you're saying that when a non-function situation occurs, you can immediately turn the machine off, get into Diagnostic Mode and successfully run the pump to fully drain the water?  The Final Spin phase (following rinse) also begins with a drain period.  What happens if you pause the cycle (without turning off first), advance to the Final Spin, press Start?  Does it drain then?




#267375 Fisher & Paykel GWL15 Water Pump Replacement

Posted by DADoESTX on 07 September 2013 - 05:52 PM

The board is not bad if the machine is running.  A board killed by the pump would = a dead machine.  You may get a dead board if you keep running the machine with a leaking pump.

 

Pretty much all F&P agitator toploaders can suffer a zapped board from a leaking pump.  GWL10 has a different electrical design with a 230v pump, mains current runs through the pump so a pump cut-out on thermal overload will make the machine effectively dead until the pump cools/resets.  All pumps have thermal overheat protection but only GWL10 interrupts power to the entire machine.







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