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Member Since 05 Sep 2007
Offline Last Active Mar 18 2015 01:17 AM

Topics I've Started

Replacing circa 1993 Lennox Gas-package AC unit. HELP!

08 July 2012 - 03:56 PM

No major problems prior. We have replaced the capacitor once before.
After lots of brownouts and blackouts during the recent storm, capacitor fried on July 4th. Replaced it. Wouldn't start. Husband banged on unit with rubber mallet and it started. So, we're okay now but on borrowed time.

Tech who came out has given us a price on a TempStar and a Goodman. He does a lot of commercial work, and its known to us as reputable. Looks like about $3400 for TempStar 13 Seer 3-ton and a bit less for Goodman. I found a chart comparing all the TempStar units, and it looks like they come 13, 14, 15 Seer. Mainline is better than performance line, with mainline having a tin-coated copper coil with 5 year no-fuss warrantly, I believe.

I'm asking for product numbers to better compare. After research, I think I'd rather have a higher-end TempAir or other unit that can take generic parts, than a low-end Trane or other brand name with proprietary part replacement. I can't get specific model number of what I have because the darling techs who installed the unit for the previous 90 year old owner removed them in every single spot. LOL...I will try to call the people Monday and get their records on it. Coastal Air Conditioning is NOT a bidder for my business, needless to say.

Thoughts? Advice? This will probably be done next week. And, by the way, when I called around for estimates, others came in between 3,000 dollars and 6400 dollars (for Dave Lennox special 15 SEER) but all quoted brand names -- Carrier, Lennox, etc. I suspect low-end, and I got prices for 13-15 SEER. Is it worth the money to go for 15 SEER? I know I'll be saving a lot over a nearly 20 year old unit,whose SEER I don't know (bought house 15 years ago). May electricity bill was $250 and June bill was $450, because it is really hot here in Savannah!

Can anybody guess a Seer on this 1993 or so unit?

GE JBP26OF3WH slide-in electric range/oven gets very hot

16 March 2012 - 01:29 PM

My range top gets extremely hot when any burner is on. Front gets hot, and when oven is on, same thing in that area. It's a slide-in overn and was good quality at the time, I am told. Purchased 1940s house about 15 years ago, and was told kitchen remodeled within the last 5-10 years. This appliance ws made ion Lexington, KY, which I took as a good sign.

Never used the self-clean because of existing heat issue. I just use a plastic scraper, and baking soda with water. Is it time to replace this thing, for safety? I know current GEs are not USA made. Or, is there a way to replace or put in insulation to keep a decent oven?



GE Microwave WES1450DM1BB Starts Only When Holding Door Button

07 December 2011 - 03:21 PM

There you have it. Sensor Error displays once you push Start after selecting time, but all manufacturer recommended remedies have no effect. Goes to Pause after start, UNLESS you hold that door open button down. Then you can get microwave to start and cook until the timer goes off with a 'ding'.

Despite the manufacturer's website troubleshooter, I suspect a problem with the door switches or some related part, but wanted to ask you guys first. I've never opened up one of these. Not afraid to do so, but would like a diagram or help before I do it.

I do like this microwave, and we've only had it since Christmas, 2007. Thanks.

Samsung 419AAW front-load washer not draining

11 December 2010 - 07:34 PM

Bought a new washer-dryer set with a 5-year service plan. It's THREE weeks old. Showing a nd code (not draining, according to the use and care manual). I've removed the filter and drained a tiny bit of water from filter tube, as manual instructs. Expected a whole lot more water. When I rinsed off the filter attached to the plastic screw cap, it was very oily, like the lubricant that comes on new cars. Not a bit of lint in the filter, just the grease.

I will tell you that the first time we tried to wash a load, it did not fill well, and the close tumbled as they were still mostly dry. So, we stopped, and started all over again, and this time we got enough water and clothes cleaned great. Is it normal to need a 'prime' cycle to get enough water into the machine? Only washed a few loads before this nd code. Of course, stopping, turning it off and on and trying again, and cleaning the filter did nothing.

Called BestBuy. They scheduled an appointment in five days. Appliance repair service left us a message that they didn't service Samsung any more, and were informing BB. Called BB, to be told they had no one else, and they''d call me withing four business hours (tomorrow) to let me know what they would do. Heard nothing. Called late next afternoon, to find out they'd turned it over to manufacturer, gave me a ticket number, and said if I didn't hear anything tomorrow, call Samsung and give them number.

I called Samsung next day. Water is now yucky and smelly in unusable washer. Samsung asks me to hold while they research. Turns out they are trying to find someone to service this, and will call me back in two business days (by now, it's Friday). So I get to wait until TUESDAY afternoon, at which time, if they find someone, they will schedule me an appointment within five business days.

What is it with people not wanting to service Samsung? I know people who have had these for years and love them. All of us in 1940s era houses need the balance of these machines because our first floors are off-grade wood construction, and Samsung doesn't rock the entire house! There are a ton of them in old Savannah, what with all the historic homes and no basements, and the people I know have not had one problem. Guess I'm just special.

I guess I need to fix this myself. Will I void the warranty? I've requested a repair manual from the Samurai. Or should I demand this be taken back and replaced, possibly with another brand? I'm concerned about the grease in the filter, as that makes me wonder about a quality control problem. I've told BestBuy and Samsung, in every conversation, that this purchase was totally dependent on the service contract.

So, do you have any insight or suggestions for me? My previous Neptune Stack lasted nearly 13 years. Dryer still works, and if I didn't have a broken hand, I'd have replaced bearings/tub and kept it going. Will do that later and send it off to college with daughter next year. And that unit was supposed to be a turkey!
Forgive my many typos--not easy to type when your dominant hand is broken!


Maytag Neptune Stackable #MLE2000AYW

25 July 2010 - 06:48 PM

Never had a problem before, but the plastic edges of the door liner (I think that's the name, can't find a diagram naming it) seems to be shredding where the plastic outside of the stainless tub has sagged and started rubbing the liner.  Both parts are loosing thin shreds of plastic.  This happened after we started noticing very loud spinning with bumping noises.  Then, today, tub stopped going into spin, and when it drained, a little water was left in the tub.  It will not spin. Could these two things be related?

I'm guessing that whatever suspends these parts is bad, and also that something may be blocking under the tub, keeping it from spinning.  I do plan to try draining and sucking out obstructions from the pump with my wet/dry vac, but it sure would help to know the correct names of parts.  I can't seem to find this detail in the service manual I downloaded. 

After this pump cleaning, I'll be ready to address any other no-spin checks for problems.  Am I following correct procedure?  Anybody have some advice for me?  I'm not a professional repairwoman, just a pre-k teacher!  Thanks.

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