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Member Since 29 Oct 2007
Offline Last Active Aug 19 2015 09:53 AM

Topics I've Started

Goodman CKL24-1M Evaporator coils

18 August 2015 - 01:20 PM

Here's the short version. This unit is in a rental. Tenants complained about water all over the floor in the laundry room. Simple enough, clogged drain pan line. Cleared the line, still leaking. Drain pan was rusted through. Fabbed a new drain pan to sit under the old one complete with new drain. No more water leaks, but the coils keep freezing up. I pulled the new pan, ran it, no freeze up. I blew out the coils, inside and outside. WTF did I miss?


Thanks in advance,



Duo-Therm 1356 Gas Furnace

15 March 2015 - 02:32 AM

I have an old Duo-Therm gas furnace that is used for heating a cabin in Michigan.  Somebody tried to rewire it with speaker wire, and I'll give them an A for ingenuity, but an F for not doing it right.  Short version is, I'm now stuck with a thermostat, a WR 90-113 fan control relay/transformer and 2 wires hanging out of the gas valve.  I'm not sure there were schematics when this thing was originally made, :confused:  but I know I don't like freezing my rear off and I really don't like frozen, busted pipes.  Anyone point me in the right direction on the wiring hook up?  I'm guessing the 2 wires hanging out of the gas valve are the high and low limit?  Any help is greatly appreciated.


FYI, Google was no help.


Thanks in advance,



Whirlpool Gas DryerLGR7646EZ2 intermittent heat, long dry times

07 January 2012 - 01:31 PM

My gas dryer was heating intermittently. It would dry a load of clothes, but it took forever. I started out armed with my knowledge, and my trusty multimeter. First thing to check, venting. Nothing clogged, no holes, no kinks. Opened up the cabinet, tested the valve, coils, and radiant sensor. They all passed. Ignitor, no continuity. Yes, I did remove them from their circuits before testing them.

Thought about it for a moment, and it made sense. Ignitor element gets hot, small crack begins to separate, operating t-stat calls for heat, small crack keeps ignitor from passing current until it cools enough to contract and close the open circuit. Cools, operating t-stat call for heat, current passes, heats up, and keeps cycling like this.

Replaced the ignitor, worked like new!

Warmed up a blanket for the princess last night, and it came out toasty warm. This morning, nothing! The ignitor won't even glow. I'm sure the thermal fuse blew after the dryer started to overheat, which leads me to believe it was the operating thermostat and a bad ignitor that was my problem. However, the blown thermal fuse leads me to believe it might be the high-limit t-stat also.

I haven't torn it apart to check for sure, but once I test the 3 suspect components- operating t-stat, high-limit t-stat, and thermal fuse I'll know for sure. I'll always remember to test ALL components and not just the first bad one I come to!

My 2 biggest questions are;
  • Meter's don't lie. Was my ignitor logic correct, and was it just hiding the upcoming failure of whichever t-stat is bad?
  • Is it possible this is another mis-direction?

Thanks in advance,


Friggindaire Fridge FRS24BGGB9

14 June 2011 - 10:06 AM

And yes, it's got power the whole time. It stopped cooling on both sides, fridge and freezer, so I got out the multimeter, voltage probe, nut drivers, and shop vac. I pulled it out of the cabinet, vacuumed the dust bunny herd around and behind it, and presto, "It's a Flag Day miracle" it started running again. I haven't opened the back to test the condenser fan for a sticky bearing, but it makes sense to me.

That sound about right?

Thanks in advance,


Gold Medal 2388 8 oz

19 November 2010 - 09:01 PM

Let me preface this with, this is a popcorn machine given to my wife's special education class.  It's a $600 machine, that needed a new element for $35. 

According to the schematic, my wires are hooked up correctly.  However, once it reaches a certain temperature, it trips my GFI in my workshop.  It doesn't trip my breaker, but the GFI.  The thermostat in this thing is very rudimentary.  It's basically a cover with 2 screws on top, and inside are two pieces of metal.  1 is V shaped and attached on both sides, and the other is just a flat piece attached on one end.  I have a feeling the thermostat is bad, but have no idea if I can test it before I order a new thermostat. 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks in advance,



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