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Tim M

Member Since 16 Nov 2007
Offline Last Active Oct 07 2014 06:17 PM

#287123 F28 and door locked on WFW9450WW00

Posted by Tim M on 07 March 2014 - 02:59 PM

.   So I ordered the motor control, and that did it.  Granted the places linked to from this Web site allow you to return the item even if installed, but I like to be sure before I install it.  The way one has to eliminate every other possibility completely in order to diagnose a printed circuit board has gone bad is a major headache.  This was a confidence builder that will let me come to that conclusion much faster the next time.  In fact, after hearing all the clicks between the two circuit boards, and seeing the behavior of the drum when it is working properly, I'll be able to have most of my diagnosis done the next time before I even open up the machine.

 

 

.   When you order the new motor control, some Web sites will charge you a $50 core charge that will be refunded when you return the defective one.  On some sites the charge won't show up until you place the item in your cart.  That means that some sites will look $50 cheaper than others.  Just make sure you know what prices you comparing.

 

.   The plug on this machine is ever so slightly different than the one in the video.  There are small holes on the outside edges of the plug so you can push the tines inward straight through the back instead of prying from the front.  Don't overdo it, and check to make sure they aren't bent too far inward.  If you don't, the board can run into them and crumple them up, which would create another headache altogether.  The connection wasn't the issue in this case, though.

 

.    I'll close with a $10 donation, and since the "Donate" button is missing from this page, I'll recycle my old haiku so anyone who reads this and gains wisdom can donate as well:

 

 

Appliance question

Valuable knowledge gained

Donate to Web site 

 

 

 

 

 

.




#286061 DPSQ495GT0WW-- guttering flame, propane dryer

Posted by Tim M on 25 February 2014 - 07:40 PM

Sounds like it wasn't the dryer, as you suspected.  Any apologies from the client?




#286058 electrolux model EIED55HMBO

Posted by Tim M on 25 February 2014 - 07:23 PM

.    If you bought the parts through the links on this Web site, you can return them and get refunded.  I don't know if returning any part for any reason is their policy, so I don't know whether you can return the limiters that blew, but the heater and the control board are returnable.  So there is at least $270 back in your pocket.

 

.   In the future, test theories before buying.  That would have saved you getting the heater, but unfortunately with compukers these days, you eliminate every other possibility, then replace the compuker, because there is no test for that.  Unfortunately you can never really eliminate every other possibility, so I make sure to get the control boards from a place that allows their return.




#247875 Kenmore Dryer Beeps When Off and No Heat 417.88052700

Posted by Tim M on 06 February 2013 - 10:39 PM

Your experience saved me a lot of diagnostic time.  In fact, I didn't even bother to disassemble it to diagnose.  Since Repair Clinic lets me return it no matter what, I never saw the insides of that machine until I arrived with the part in hand.

 

.   Another donation to Appliantology.org for $10.




#247874 Maytag MAH2400AWW Washer

Posted by Tim M on 06 February 2013 - 10:14 PM

.    A donation to the Keeping Applaintology.org Going Fund, which for those of you who have missed it, is found through the link labeled "Beer".

 

.   Hey! wait a second.  Why is this guy donating when no one even answered his question?  That someone even keeps this forum going was immensely helpful to me.  No one else on the web even pointed me in the right direction.  This place did.  The answer was within this Web site, even if I didn't receive a reply.  It enabled me to find my own answer.  That's worth something.  Yes, the forum answers that saved me from replacing the wrong part today on a different repair got a much larger donation, but this one still gets 5 bucks.

 

Appliance question

Valuable knowledge gained

Donate to Web site 




#247872 Slow Spin, Overload Trips Kenmore Whirlpool 110.27532600

Posted by Tim M on 06 February 2013 - 09:59 PM

.     Budget was right.  The machine was continuously drawing over 30 amps until the motor kicked off.  Once the new timer was installed, it would level off around 8 amps right away.  I had assumed a start winding was staying engaged, and it didn't occur to me that it was both Low and High running together.  Someone had mentioned that turning the timer around a lot sometimes fixed it, but I thought maybe they were just killing time while the overload protector reset itself.

 

.     Anyway you saved me a second trip out for a repair, and some embarrassment.  So, one of two donations to the Appliantology fund today, this one for $15.  By the way, the donation fund my remain unnoticed by many, as it is labeled "Beer" instead of "Donate" or "Donate to keep this service/tool/academy/forum going." or "We can't afford to provide the only accurate answers on the web without your support.  Donate now."




#247588 Diagnostic Haiku for Maytag Washer MAH2400AWW

Posted by Tim M on 02 February 2013 - 01:24 AM

.   This haiku sums up all the diagnosis for this post:

http://appliantology...asher/?p=247587

 

 


Maytag Front Loader

Won't rotate counterclockwise

Buy new motherboard.

 

 




#247587 Maytag MAH2400AWW Washer

Posted by Tim M on 02 February 2013 - 01:19 AM

.   I never closed out this topic, and I wanted to finish off the post since I'd put so much detail into it already.  Also, when my father passed away a few months ago, I remembered that he had loaned me his copy of The Four Seasons; Japanese Haiku Second Series, and that I written a Haiku about this diagnosis

 

.  The control board did fix it.  It may have been this post http://appliantology...tag-mah2400aww/ that clued me into focusing on whether it had a CCW counterclockwise rotation.

 

.   I haven't been able to find my original Haiku on this, but as well as I can remember the diagnosis went something like this:

 

Maytag Front Loader

Won't rotate counterclockwise

Buy new motherboard.

 




#235749 OLD Caloric compacto 30 oven

Posted by Tim M on 07 July 2012 - 07:24 PM

. Closing out this post. I got a lovely thank you letter from the little old lady. She was so happy to have her oven up and running again, and to be saved from buying a modern piece of junk.

. It was the safety valve and I sent it out to have it rebuilt to The Old Appliance Club
http://www.antiquestoves.com/TOAC/

Their page on rebuilt Safety Valves:
http://www.antiquest...afetyvalves.htm

They seem to be associated with RepCo replacement parts
http://www.erepco.com/

. The safety rebuild, with shipping, was around $200. With a couple of trips the bill got up there, but she was delighted, and now I have a place for vintage parts.



. So many thanks for the advice and here's a $10 donation to the beer fund.
http://fixitnow.com/...urai-beer-fund/


#231248 Frigidaire LTF2140ES0 Won't Drain, Pump Out

Posted by Tim M on 29 April 2012 - 07:02 PM

Here are the two missing images referenced in my above post.


Attached File  Door Switch1.jpg   16.47KB   4 downloads



Attached File  Door Switch2.jpg   17.59KB   4 downloads


#230807 Asko W600 Knob Advances to 'S'

Posted by Tim M on 23 April 2012 - 09:35 PM

BTW, troubleshooting by process of elimination is called deductive reasoning and in no way resembles the parts changing monkey method.


. I didn't even mean to suggest that you were using the parts-changing-monkey method. I was just wishing to insure that she didn't lose another 2 months and $100 in shipping. That's why I asked what a service call costs there. If it is $10 —and who knows it might be— then she is better off to have it tested. Also, she doesn't need a service call to do that. She could bring the motor into a shop and drop it on a counter and have them test it.

. Then again she could ask this guy in Cape Town where where he gets his parts (and service) so she isn't shipping from the USA:
Attached File  Screen shot 2012-04-23 at 10.18.06 PM.png   57.5KB   2 downloads
click image above to see advertisement for Asko Dishwasher

She might also try Water Efficiency South Africa:
http://www.waterefficiencysa.co.za/
which recommends the Asko here:
http://www.watereffi...ortChapter2.pdf


These guys seem to only do industrial, but might have some leads:
http://www.rrservice...a/contactus.htm


#230804 Frigidaire LTF2140ES0 Won't Drain, Pump Out

Posted by Tim M on 23 April 2012 - 08:39 PM

Okey dokey.

. Calling up error codes would be useful. But as you'll see in a post of mine below, that can get you the wrong information anyway.

. Here is a post where it told me it was the control board, but it was the door switch:
http://appliantology...gidaire-washer/

. Here is the inside $70 switch part no. 131763202:
Posted Image
but you may not NEED that, though it is broken.

. Here is the one I fixed in the link above for $12 bucks:
[see image in next post]

That little white thing that the screwdriver points to is the wax motor which you can replace if everything else works OK in the switch. That is what moves it over to lock.

See here is the piece that tells it "I'm locked, go ahead and spin, because nobody can get his/her arm in here now."
[see image in next post]
The white wax motor pushes the black thingy, where the screwdriver is pointing, into the lock mechanism, it may push it far enough to lock it, but when it does, it also needs to push the two copper contacts together just to the left of the screwdriver so the compuker knows its locked. It won't, by the way, do any of this, unless it knows the door is closed, which is another set of contacts in there, though I don't know which ones, as I don't have one of these in front of me right now. Anyway, it is so beautifully and simply mechanical in there, you can figure that out pretty easily.

. So should you see everything in there is happy, which I'm sure it is, you need this:
Posted Image
Part # 12002535 $12.

The housing on the door lock opens VERY easily. It's easy to put this in, and easy to test the door lock itself.


. One problem left: as for Mamma-San, tell her you are getting a real education, through real experience! You are sharpening your analytical and problem-solving skills. You are increasing your virility by doing man-stuff. You'll feel very satisfied by accomplishing this, and she will too from your increased virility. Shipping costs?! I don't know where you live, but a repairman might charge you $90, just to walk through the door, and tell you "Looks like you need a new one" which often really means, "I can't figure it out." If does fix it, more bucks for the labor time, plus he'll probably double the price of the entire switch assembly that you don't need. So $140 for the switch, $150 for labor. Oh and did you need the pump? Another $150 or more? Well over $400, anyway, and you wouldn't get to have all this fun.


#230751 Kenmore HE2 electric dryer throwing breaker occasionally (110.87562601)

Posted by Tim M on 23 April 2012 - 07:48 AM

. I had this a few years ago. Dryer would often throw the breaker. An electrician had been out and said the breaker was fine, so I spent hours monkeying around with the dryer. Finally I'd start the cycle and run down and hear a crackling noise from the breaker panel. Then I got the client to start it while I was at the panel.

. Turns out it was the breaker. There wasn't one of the same amperage in the panel to test it out on, so the only alternative was a trip to the hardware store for a new breaker.

. Anyway, try listening at the breaker panel. If there is another breaker of the same amperage you can swap out, and know how to be safe doing so, try that.

. Intermittent problems are a pain to diagnose. I doubt the heater is overheating. First there are safety thermostats that would blow. Second, it still draws the same amount of current no matter what.

. I'm assuming the 99 is a coincidence or anomaly, here, but I could be wrong.


#230728 Whirlpool Top Load Direct Drive Washer agitates but clunks and fails in spin...

Posted by Tim M on 22 April 2012 - 08:18 PM

Is the screech ongoing? Or is it short and then everything stops dead?

These articles may be of help:

Diagnosing transmission problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore top-loading, direct-drive washer

http://fixitnow.com/...t-drive-washer/



Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer

http://fixitnow.com/...t-drive-washer/


#229751 Washer jumping around like a fish out of water

Posted by Tim M on 10 April 2012 - 07:50 PM

I've never even bothered to try this repair. When people call me I point out that the two metals between the drum and the spider are incompatible. Then I ask them "You got this 5 years ago, right?" Which they did. So the new one will last about the same time, as that is how long the metals have to react.. Plus you have to take the whole machine apart. From what I hear, it's a $700 repair, on an $800 machine, and the repair will only last you 5 years. Now granted you save the $300 on the part, but you are still throwing good money after bad. Put the $350 or so in labor towards something you won't have to put another $400 into in 5 years.





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