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Member Since 22 Dec 2007
Offline Last Active Apr 07 2014 05:39 PM

Topics I've Started

Broken glass oven front - can't find model number!

21 February 2014 - 08:55 PM

I have looked at the FAQ on finding the model number.  No joy.  Can't find a tag other than safety warnings.


It's very similar to this model:  http://www.sears.com...12000P?prdNo=10



A dropped pan manged to bounce off a knee and into the glass front.  Hilarity did NOT ensue!



The glass is cleaned up, but the question remains:  Can I buy and replace just the glass?  Or do I have to buy a door?  "I'll take Door Number 3, Monty!"



And if I can replace just the glass, does anybody know where (wink wink) I can buy it?



The glass should measure something like 29.5 x 21 inches.


LG HE front loaders - are they any good?

26 November 2013 - 09:00 PM

Well, our 2nd hand replacement for our dead Duet has started the leaking tub routine.  We need a bigger washer anyway - this conventional top loader has been painful to live with.


My wife has been researching reviews for a couple of days, and thinks she likes the LG HE front loaders.  Haven't settled on a size, yet.



What do the Samurai Experts think of the LGs?    Any feedback would be appreciated!



Any other brand recommendations?  Other than Whirlpool, of course!

Replacing a freezer door seal - any tips? How difficult is it?

22 October 2013 - 08:10 PM

I have a Whirlpool upright freezer (model # EV250NXTQ 00)  It's about a 25 cubic footer, if'n I remembers kerreckly.


The door seal has a significant gap on the bottom half of the opening side of the door, with predictable results.  :(


I think I might know a good place to order the seal :wink: , but how big a job is it?  Any tips to make it easy?  I can't even see how to start removing the old one, let alone installing the new one.

Moving a refrigerator - laying it down on its side?

01 September 2013 - 06:10 PM

This should be an easy one - I have just had to go buy a new-to-me refrigerator, and the loading & unloading process has the thing at about a 45 degree angle for a few minutes.  Maybe 5.


In days of yore I was always told that a refrigerator should be allowed to stand upright overnight after having been moved, to allow the oil in the compressor to drain back down where it belongs.


However, I dimly recall being told that this was not necessary with newer refrigerators.  This newish fridge is probably 5 years old or so.



So, does it need to be left upright for some lenght of time before being plugged in?  If so, what is that period of time?



Water pressure tank - proper pressure?

26 August 2012 - 10:22 AM

Well, it's not exactly water treatment, but I didn't see another section that looked quite right.

I have been fiddling with my well system, trying to get some decent pressure. I think I had a waterlogged pressure tank. I've added air, and now I can see the water level in the tank clearly, via the condensation on the outside of the tank. It's only about 8" above the bottom of the tank, and I'm sure I need more water in there.

What pressure should I add to the tank for proper operation? Should I add the air when the tank is empty and sealed off from the rest of the system? (I have gate valves on either side of the tank, so I can isolate it.)

The tank is an oldie, and I have not found any info about it despite a couple of hours of searching the 'Net. A few mentions of it, but no specifications. I suspect the company is long gone.

I've attached a picture of the data plate. I have the middle size.

I have a deep well with a submersible pump. A label on the tank identifies a local well company, and says it's a 1/2 horse pump.

The well company can't help me unless I tell them the name of the contractor who built the house. Seems they file all of their customer info that way. When I asked them why they didn't file it by street address, they were genuinely baffled. "Why would we do that?" :wallbash:

Oooookay! Well, that and the quality (I use that term loosely) of their work tells me who NOT to call if I need professional help! :woot:

While I'm asking, does anyone know if there is a way to tell how deep a well is without pulling the pump? In the radio world, we can send a signal up the coaxial cable and tell how far it is to the antenna. Is there anything like that for well pumps?

I was told it's a 300 foot well by the previous owner, but don't know if that's even close to accurate. Given the poor performance we enjoy, though, I wouldn't be surprised. That's too deep for a half horse pump!

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