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BlueRidgeMark

Member Since 22 Dec 2007
Offline Last Active Mar 01 2015 08:59 AM

Topics I've Started

LG Dryer DLEX8000W - no heat, check filter light on

28 February 2015 - 11:03 AM

LG Dryer DLEX8000W, suddenly, no heat. 

 

It's just out of warranty, of course.  :wallbash:

 

 

A few weeks ago the wife noticed the check filter light was on, but there were no other symptoms.   I checked the duct work, and it was okay.  (It's a bit of a long run, so we've had to clean it out more than once.) 

 

Yesterday, son complained that clothes were not drying.  I found the duct was disconnected from the dryer, ran a load, and found the air coming out is cold.   The check filter light is on.   Might have been all this time - folks here don't notice things like that, or if noticed, don't always report them to me.  :whistling:  They aren't really good about keeping the lint trap clean, either, though I preach on it constantly.

 

I'm  thinking (hoping?) it may just be clogged up with lint internally, so a sensor is not allowing the heat to come on.

 

Trying to do some basic disassembly, and getting nowhere.  This thing is built like no other dryer I've ever encountered.  So far, it seems very well built, but very different.

 

Does anyone have a service manual for the thing?  Or can you tell me how to do a basic disassembly?

 

Any other input or advice?  Any known issues that I should know about?

 

Thanks!

 

 


Wiring for a furnace blower motor

22 January 2015 - 07:24 PM

I tried to add this to another thread I started, but for some reason I cannot reply to my first post, and can't edit either.  Weird.

 

Anyway, I'm trying to use this blower to move warm air from my woodstove to the other end of the house (via ducts).   I know my way around elecricity, but I have no experience with motors.  Here's what I think I know about it:

 


  1. I'm assuming this is a 3 speed motor, or perhaps 4?  

  2. I want to take advantage of the multiple speed, so I'll need a multiposition switch.

  3. The transformer is probably used to power the original HVAC thermostat system, so not needed for my application.

  4. The capacitor is needed for starting.


 

Good so far?  Or do I need some course corrections?

 

Most importantly, what wire does what?  What can I toss, and what do I keep?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

wring%20overall.jpg

 

wires%20out%20of%20motor%202.jpg

 

capacitor.jpg

 

wires%20out%20of%20motor.jpg

 

transformer%202.jpg

 

Plug.jpg

 

transformer.jpg

 

 


A little off the beaten track....

13 January 2015 - 09:34 PM

Okay folks, here's a weird one for you:

 

I have a smallish house with a poor design. It was originally built as a cabin, and then added onto. My kitchen/family room & two bedrooms are at one end, and the main living area and master bedroom are at the other end. The woodstove is in the family room, and is oversized for the house. It's a Fisher Grandpa Bear, and would probably heat a house twice our size. (We're about 1250 sf.)

The wood stove is our only source of heat. There is no central air, no ducting of any kind in the house.

The problem is, if we keep it warm enough to heat the far end of the house, the woodstove end roasts. If we keep it comfortable in the family room, the far end is cold.


I'm thinking of running a duct from the family room to the living room (with possibly a branch off to the master bedroom) to move some of that heat out of the family room. There is a corridor connecting them, which would take the air back to the family room.

I have attic connecting both areas, so there's no problem with routing.

I have acquired a 3 speed furnace blower, and one 25" section of new 14" flexible ducting, and one 25' section of 6".

 

My plan is to install two filtered intake registers in the ceiling of the family room (standard 24 o.c. joists), and route that to the blower, then duct it down to the living room, with a short side run to the master bedroom. Ceiling registers in both rooms.

The reason for using two registers is to slow the air down to reduce intake noise, so we aren't bothered by it when in that room.

 

Here's where I need help:

 

  1. Wiring the blower.  I can post pictures of the existing wiring, if I can figure out how to post pictures.  I'll work on that.
  2. Sizing the ductwork. 
  3. Any suggestions you may have.

 

Whatcha think?

 

 

 

 


GE TFX22R refrig - top half warm

20 December 2014 - 03:48 PM

This is a second refrigerator in the basement, and I'm hoping you are going to tell me this is probably a case of someone leaving the door open and getting some frost buildup.  The chances of someone leaving a door ajar are.... high.  :confused: 

 

Top half warm, bottom half normal (ish).   The frost pattern in the freezer side matches, too. It's thick (2" frost about 2/3 of the way up.  Then nothing.  (Can't find a way to post a picture!)   We've cleaned out the bulk of the ice, and are letting it defrost completlely.

 

Meanwhile, what do you think?  Does this sound like a frost buildup blocked airflow?  Or does it look more serious?

 

Dunno what's going on with the uploading of pictures.  I've done it in the past, but just can't find a way now.  ???

 

 


Broken glass oven front - can't find model number!

21 February 2014 - 08:55 PM

I have looked at the FAQ on finding the model number.  No joy.  Can't find a tag other than safety warnings.

 

It's very similar to this model:  http://www.sears.com...12000P?prdNo=10

 

 

A dropped pan manged to bounce off a knee and into the glass front.  Hilarity did NOT ensue!

 

 

The glass is cleaned up, but the question remains:  Can I buy and replace just the glass?  Or do I have to buy a door?  "I'll take Door Number 3, Monty!"

 

 

And if I can replace just the glass, does anybody know where (wink wink) I can buy it?

 

 

The glass should measure something like 29.5 x 21 inches.

 



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