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Member Since 07 Feb 2008
Offline Last Active Mar 20 2015 12:55 AM

Topics I've Started

GSH22JFREWW - Evaporator Fan Motor Not Coming On

06 March 2015 - 03:03 AM

As per the service manual: 13V between red and white at the motor connector from the pcb.


Did not "check voltage at J2-3 white wire and J2-4 yellow wire.More than 8 vdc?" as the serv man was not avail to me at that time.


Red to white resistance @ 2.2k and Yellow and white open. So the motor has resistance.


Motor in hand - disconnected form the unit - jumpered red and yellow together to 12dc+ and white to 12dv-: motor does not run.


Am I missing something?

Frigidare Wall Oven M#: PLEB30S9DCA - No Heat / Fried Diode

11 February 2015 - 02:04 PM

FYI: I have searched and searched and cannot find a service manual for this unit.


I have attached a wiring diagram. Someone look at it and set aside my fears?


None of the three heating elements are heating up. By bypassing the "in / out" terminals for the K4 relay on the oven control I can cause the bake and broil elements to heat. I found the diode on the 115v / 350w convection element was badly cracked / coming apart. Looking at the diagram I feel there is no relationship between the diode failure and the oven control failure.


I found out the diode is there to prevent any possible L2 voltage leakage / feedback to neutral through the convection element ( it's a 115v element and wire in series with the convection fan motor ).


Furthermore the customer says everything stopped heating all at the same time. Because from what I can tell, when in convection bake, the bake and convection elements come on at the same time So this makes me think that the convection element failed some time prior to the oven control and the customer didn't know it because the bake element was still heating the oven. If that's the case I would feel certain that the diode failure did not effect the oven control.


Can someone look at the diagram and tell me what you think. Are the oven control and the diode failures not related?



Manitowic Harvest Issues - Senses harvest too soon

29 December 2013 - 02:45 AM

Model#: QW1305W

Was making ice too thick then too thin alternately without any adjustments. It needed cleaning so we cleaned it hoping that the slime on the bridge / thickness sensor might be causing it. Didn't solve the problem. The sensor was changed about 5 months ago because it was going into harvest too soon. The harvest light, then and now, would come on with the sensor detached from the spray tube and moved away from the grid several feet. Touching the sensor, while removed and not touching anything else, would cause it to trip harvest. I don't think it's supposed to be that sensitive. Disconnecting the sensor connector from the board was / is the only way to stop it from going into harvest. Touching the terminal on the board, without touching anything else, also causes it to switch into harvest.


I think it's the sensing circuit in the control board. The troubleshooting chart in the manual says the same. I know experience is everything. Anybody dealt with this before?

Water Heater Dripping on Burner - Cracked Tank?

21 December 2013 - 02:33 PM

I been working on water heaters for a lot of years but only as a sorta secondary thing. Recently an absolute certainty of whether a tank was leaking or if it was condensation dripping needed to be made. I know that it is very common for condensation to build up and drip onto the burner. And I know that sometimes it can be bad enough to put out the flame of the burner and or pilot. I also know that the position of the flue baffle can make a difference as to where the water drips. I've read that the burning process of natural gas has a moisture by-product that along with a cold portion of a tank can cause condensation and can add to the natural condensing of moisture from the combustion air in the flue.


Sometimes a leak is obvious - IE: Leaks on or off. Sometimes condensation is obvious - IE: Drips for awhile when a lot of cold water is in the tank, tapers off as the water heats up and eventually stops all together.


In the case I witnessed the dripping from was from between the portion of the flue pipe that protrudes below the tank bottom and the tank it's self in the combustion chamber. In my experience dripping from the inside of the flue pipe is condensation.


It is my theory that a fracture / hairline crack can retain water until heated up then expand and allow noticeable leakage. The Whirpool agent disagreed. ( It was an extended warranty job ).


Can anybody add their experience?



Variable Speed GE Profile High Suction Pressure

10 October 2012 - 12:56 AM

Late last minute call out of area to a ncoo GE Profile. It had previously been serviced approx 30 days ago for ncoo. Owner and extended warranty co both told me that the previous servicer said unit had a sealed system leak. I found a access valve installed, ff @ 74 deg and fz @ 79. Variable speed compressor running and cool, no heat in liquid line and a slightly cool suction line. Initial low side pressure @ -4 psi. Looked for signs of leak before and after charging - nothing found. Charged unit so customer could use the unit till a resolution was achieved. The problem comes in with two things. I charged the unit to approx 3psi - No temp changes to anything. Kept going up to 5 then 10 then 15, etc till I finally got some heat in the condenser about 1/3 of the way through at 35psi. Also the compressor had a sort of dull light rod knock sound - lighter when settled and a bit more pronounced when adding refrigerant. The temp started dropping quickly then but I know somethings wrong here. I've never charged a residential unit to that high of a low side pressure before. I find it odd that the unit would have a leak and a bad compressor but I know it's possible. Just not used to charging variable speed units so it leaves me with questions that with a recip comp I would not have. Wish I would have had time to add a high side valve.

I don't know if I'll be going back to this one as the ext warr co will most likely do a buyout. I did offer to purchase it for parts should they do so so I could experiment with it. I guess moreover I am looking for more information for future troubleshooting as well as with this issue in particular. With a reciprocating compressor one would expect pressures to be a in certain parameters depending on environmental conditions. Knowing those parameters and comparing them to what is happening allows you to determine performance and faults. Certainly variable speed / liner compressors / systems should have their own set of expected behaviours and pressures which would allow you to do the same as with the recrip ones. I can't find any info on the web and nor can I find good tech data on LG's tech site.

Opinions please. Thanks

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