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Member Since 07 Feb 2008
Offline Last Active Jul 20 2014 12:49 AM

#299012 LG fridge LFX31925ST/00 3 way valve

Posted by clman on 18 July 2014 - 04:58 PM

You've def got the dryer installed in the right direction. This is a dual evap coil unit. That's the reason for the "3 way valve". To split / control refrigerant flow to both coils. Hopefully the 3 way valve was in the right position when you evacuated it. Double check the amount of charge on the box label. I tried to attach the service manual but its too big. Perhaps someone can instruct me on the best way to do it, if you want it.

#298999 Samsung Rf323tedbsr delivering water with ice in door.

Posted by clman on 18 July 2014 - 03:15 PM

Could be a faulty defrost thermistor and / or board. Since the cold air comes from a duct from the freezer through the back liner of the unit to the ice room when the unit comes out of defrost it may be turning the fan on too soon allowing warm steamy air to get into the ice room and very slightly melt the ice. Any intrusion of air warmer than freezer air will cause frost build up and wet ice.

#278531 Whirlpool Gas Water Heater N30T61-303

Posted by clman on 21 December 2013 - 02:13 PM

The eco ( Energy Cut Off ) is most likely the "sensor" you referred to. It is a thermal safety switch that monitors overheating of the unit and will shut down gas flow to the burner. If tripped it will not cut off gas to the pilot. Sounds like a bad circuit board in the gas control valve. The thermopile generates the voltage that the board needs to operate. If the thermopile is good the led status light should do something once the pilot has heated the thermopile up enough to generate proper voltage. According to the manual the thermopile and sensor wires do not interconnect. They have specific plug in locations on the gas valve. The manual is available on Whirlpools web site. http://whirlpoolwate.../319118-002.pdf

#226000 LG LFX25960SB Refrigerator making growling noise and ice maker sticking

Posted by clman on 04 March 2012 - 02:50 AM

The defrost controller is telling the pcb to come out of defrost too soon. Thereby curculating steam around which gets sorta flash frozen and explodes into frost and eventually accumulates to the point of stopping the fan and other stuff. I NEVER have to change the board. However I do recall on the eariler models that the issue showed up on that the timing in m.pcb software the was changed to a longer delay after the thermistor said it was ok to go back to cooling. Still, and again, as I said just changing the defrost controller solves the problem.

#225976 samsung RF267 water under pantry tray/ cabinet

Posted by clman on 03 March 2012 - 10:35 PM

The box at the lower left is the water tank. Be sure the water is not coming from the large center panel that is the freash food evaporator and evaporator fan section. If the water is coming from the tank check the hose fittings. If it is coming from the center panel remove it and check the drain line / opening at the bottom, belw the coil, for clogging. I have experienced a couple of units lately whose drain line s are not clogged but are leaking and I am am still trying to figure out why.

#225165 LG LDS5811BB Dishwasher - 1E error

Posted by clman on 25 February 2012 - 05:25 PM

With it overilling like it did the drain pump should have come on by it's self to drain out the excess water. The fact that it didn't and that the frequency was zero shows a fault with the guide assmy, m.pcb or wiring.

You need to check the the water flow / hall sensor and float in the guide / air breaker / fill assmy. If the the wheel of the flow / hall sensor is spinning and the floats are engaging the micro switches then they are mechanically functioning properly. If they are then make sure the micro switches for the floats shows continuity when empty / closed and no continuity when full / open. If the micro switch does not open when the float is raised by the water level it is bad. As I reall one of the float switches provides overfill protection so I find it odd that the drain pump didn't come on when you were testing it. Unless it didn't quite get to that point yet.

If the water flow / hall sensor spins check it's resistance. Pins 1 & 3 ( the blue and white wires ) should read 9,000~11,000 Ω. If it is within this range it is good.

If all that checks out and there are no wiring faults the m.pcb is bad.

I'd suspect the parts in the guide assmy to be at fault. Namely the flow hall / sensor. If so changing the entire guide / air breaker / fill assmy makes sense.

#225157 LG LSC27931st /01 refrigerator water dispenser leaks when activated

Posted by clman on 25 February 2012 - 04:45 PM

In case you haven't resolved this issue:

The water line is molded into the door in spray foam insulation. We have seen issues with water leaks inside the door on these models and changing the door has been the solution.

#225154 LG LFX25960SB Refrigerator making growling noise and ice maker sticking

Posted by clman on 25 February 2012 - 04:24 PM

Aside from the evaporator fan motor in the freezer there is a ice room fan motor assmy behind the evaporator panel as well. I will refer to it as "IF". It comes on when the thermistor in the ice room in the refrigerator door senses a temp rise and a call for ice production at the same time. The IF will be turned off when the refrigerator door is opened. It will not be turned off when the freezer door is opened. There is a known issue with the first IF's where it would gather frost in the inside of the blower housing from the defrost mode. There is also a later developement of the IF circuitry being damaged by moisture intrusion. I believe you have frost / ice in the IF assmy. The redesign of the IF housing has an enlarged section at the bottom for the moisture to collect and drip out. The evaporator panel will have to be changed as well if changing from the first design to the second and third. The third design simply seals the wiring better where it enters the IF housing. If you have the second design just defrost and remove the moisture from the entire assmy and seal the wiring entry point with silicone when reassembling. Make sure the assmy is completely dry. To make sure it's the IF turn the ice maker off by the rocker switch to see if the noise stops. Turning the IM off stops the call for ice production and thereby turns off the IF.

#225150 Need error codes for LG LFC25760ST refrigerator

Posted by clman on 25 February 2012 - 03:49 PM

Unless the unit had recently come out of defrost or cycled back on from normal temperature rise - If the frost pattern looked normal than I'd say the efm had been running. Especially if the actual fresh food temp was in normal range.

I've never heard of or seen the temp readings "surge" as described. Obviously they will rise when the doors have been open for a bit. If the actual temps are normal than the thermistors are telling the m.pcb the correct info. The m.pcb is responding to the thermistor info correctly also by cycling and maintaining normal temps. I would suspect a communication error between the m.pcb and the d.pcb. Or a faulty d.pcb.

The FF code appears if the efm stops running due to an obstruction or motor failure, or if there is a fault in the rpm feedback wire from the efm, or the m.pcb is not computing the info it's receiving from the efm feedback circuit. The most common cause for a FF code that I have seen is a frost build up around the efm shroud caused by a faulty defrost controller. As I recall the efm will not run on this model with the door open.. You wil have to manually depress the door switch or put the m.pcb in test mode.

I have also found it normal to sense a very light electrical burn smell on any pcb that gets heated up. Especially when not ventilated like these are.

Hope this helps.

#225142 Kenmore 106.54609300 refrigerator side by side warm

Posted by clman on 25 February 2012 - 02:58 PM

It's common for a compressor relay to rattle. Some more than others.

Assuming you have proper votage to the relay and through the overload: Sounds like the compressor is locked up. An amp draw test duruing start will tell you if it's actually trying to start or not. By the way it's probably not the relay clicking but rather the overload tripping. If the compressor is locked up it will draw high amperage through the overload protector and trip it. When trying to start It will humm and probably draw the lights down inside the unit and any on the same circuit the unit is plugged into then click and everything will go back to normal brightness and no more humm. A hard start kit with a direct voltage source connected to the compressor as a test will let you make sure there is no outside fault. If the compressor starts - it can run. If not - it's bad.

#225140 LG LDS5811BB Dishwasher - 1E error

Posted by clman on 25 February 2012 - 02:37 PM

Is there a product code / slash number at the end of the model number you provided. It will not be on any manuals but rather on the label on the side of the door. Test mode is Rinse + Delay + Power depressed at the same time. Hold the rinse and delay buttons down very slightly before pressing the power button. All lights will light up and 3H/U2 will appear in the top display. To test the water frequency press only the time delay button 4 times. 34 will show in the top display. The water fill / level frequency will show in the front display. It should be 229 or more. Here's the kicker. I've seen that reading be all over the place and the unit still work fine.

Water supply weak or intermittent. Water valve intermittently not opening ( mechanically or electrically ) or not opening all the way, obstructed ( debris, etc )

Air guide assmy / air breaker issue ( the large opaque plastic device on the left side where the water comes in from the water valve and out via the fill cover on the inside side wall ). The hall sensor may be clogged and not able rotate.

Faluty wiring between the hall sensor in the guide assmy and the main pcb.

The main pcb is not reading the hall sensor info correctly.

I think I covered all the possibilities.

If it's not a plumbing problem; replacing the m.pcb would be the most costly

#208300 Replacing bearings / spider on LG WM2455H

Posted by clman on 16 September 2011 - 07:52 PM

We've dealt with this a whole lot. The dampers rarely go out. Especially on a newer unit. As I recall the WM2455HM or HG came in about 2008. For that matter the same is true about the bearings. But it happens. The inner tub shaft seal, outer tub gasket ( for where it splits apart ) and the two inner tub shaft bearings are what need to be changed. The inner tub asmy comes with the spider and is warranted for lifetime. We change the stator and rotor ( 7 yr warr ) as well cause we may as well. More bang for the customers buck. Changing the support springs and dampers won't hurt but most likely is not needed. Typically we change the rear outer tub asmy ( comes w the bearings and seal and hoses ) and it's been covered by warranty w/ the inner tub as well, so far.

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