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certified tech group 51

Member Since 10 Mar 2008
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 11:38 PM

#321156 sub-zero..............water in bottom of ff side. 690/s

Posted by certified tech group 51 on Yesterday, 09:42 PM

Do you have a better model number???..........It could be a blocked defrost drain tube....OR..... the tube fell off of the drain trough......OR... the tube froze and split....OR.......The sealant sealing the drain trough to the walls has finally pulled away allowing water to pass.........Have you looked at this unit yet??????...The low refrigerant 'Ice Ball' will be in the upper left on the evaporator coil..........heat exchanger on the left side...........Also check the water reservoir, left wall, behind the panel............... .




#321029 Miele D/W # G2170 intake/drain light flashing

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 31 May 2015 - 11:49 AM

Best finish this post....I returned to the scene of the crime, armed with the knowledge plus an arm full of service manual......Ran the diagnostic and 'Fault Code 14' ( Water Intake Fault, heater pressure switch )...presented it self........Pull the unit, access the left side, water diverter side ...............Got a good flashlight to view the flow meter in the water diverter......With my rubber handeled screwdriver,  I tapped on the diverter at the flow meter , just to see if it was loose..........( really cannot see much, but I felt better).....Closed the door and picked a cycle, pushed the start button and watched the water flow thru it's path.........It filled and then started to wash... :woot: .......What in blue blazes was this????............It's alive!!!.........I canceled the cycle and stared a new cycle...Filled and started to wash..........It was just a cranky flow meter..................Fault Code 14 / pressure switch, was indicated  but with no signal from the flow meter  to start the circulation motor equals no pressure at the pressure switch.....




#318732 FRIGIDAIRE DISHWASHER FFBD2411NW1A

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 28 April 2015 - 10:29 AM

Find the D/W's junction box, located most of the time behind the toe plate, right side..Are the wire nut tight???...........Just do not look, grab the wires and twist the nut......Good thing to try with the power "OFF"......But if you want to join "The 120 Club" give it a whirl with the power "ON".. :woot: .....




#318681 LG Dishwasher LDS5811ST OE code

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 27 April 2015 - 09:21 AM

Are you stating you are measuring two wires at the same time???........clamp around one wire, preferably the wire to the drain pump from the main control board, then we will see what we see........What is the current draw per the tech sheet??.




#318508 Epoxy for sealed system leaks

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 23 April 2015 - 10:24 PM

Same stuff I have been using for years...........Good stuff.........Never have used it in the area of the fins...Just follow the directions, can't go wrong....I use a propane powered micro-tip torch........You use a small propane tank, has a hose, about three feet long and a handle that looks like a soldering pencil......Works for me.




#317488 AMANA REFRIGERATOR ABB1924DEW

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 09 April 2015 - 11:17 PM

If you are going to use a 3-N-1 start pak, at least use the correct one....................I use the Supco RCO 810, rate for 1/12  to 1/5 HP.........The  Supco 410 is rated  for 1/4 to 1/3 HP, too much start power for a domestic refer.....There is a Supco P/N if the is a run capacitor in the system.....As in the previously noted posts, I inform the customer that the compressor is now on "Life Support"..................This will give them some time to shop and save  for the new refer.............Applianceman1, now is the time to purchase a few new tools, the Supco "Meg-Ohm-Meter is one neat tool ........Lets you check the windings of the compressor, will not check the mechanical parts..........




#316785 Defrost Thermostat on Whirlpool EB9FVHXWQ01

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 01 April 2015 - 11:30 PM

And now for something completely different,............. Remove the toe grill at the front of the machine...........Remove the Tech sheet............Read the said Tech sheet................Put said machine into forced defrost..................Is there power at the defrost terminator?????.................If no power to said defrost terminator , then the previously mentioned 'Jazz Board' is FUBAR.................On the control board, the black looking box called a 'Relay' has bit the dust............I will not name names, but when most techs get a service call for "Not Cooling", we do our research before leaving the office..............When we pull the evap panel, feast our eye balls on the evap panel and see the  one like  you posted, we put the unit into forced defrost and nothing happens....We then replace the board that we brought with us, cuz we already know that from previous service calls, 90 % of the time it is the said "Jazz Board".... :thumbsup: .......




#316717 Frigidaire Model no. FRS26R2AW4

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 01 April 2015 - 10:03 AM

When you replace the filter head , you are not done , yet...The filter possibly cracked from freezing......If you browse thru most FRS26 models ( some posts still not solved) , the original complaint is/was.......Fresh food section too cold/ food freezing...Do you have a good thermometer in the fresh food section????...Keep your eye on the temp. on the top shelf.........................You are not making ice cuz the water to the ice maker goes thru the filter and in your case on to the top shelf of the FF section..................




#316127 Sub Zero model 550 has icing in rear of refrigerator and is warm

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 22 March 2015 - 12:24 PM

Pull the evaporator panel off and look at the evap coil..........Ice ball on upper left????.............P/N 3130270 for new evap coil........need serial number for correct part numbers, could be P/N 4204400.............Off cycle defrost on this unit................I get this job done in apx. 3 hours and 500 to 550 clam$..........Easy repair IF you have the tools and the experience.. :thumbsup: ....  1800 degree torch and a few inches from plastic is not the time to practice.. :woot: ...




#315659 W/P wtw4950 No Spin

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 17 March 2015 - 07:20 PM

Repair is complete.........It  took a new lid switch and the  actuator...........It appears the actuator was failing at higher R.P.M's.....the tech sheet test for the optical sensor sez:  step10. If 13 volts D.C. is present ( I had 12.5 V.D.C. ) go to  step 11...Voltage should toggle between 0 and +5V.D.C....( I got that ).......I replaced the parts and ran the Calibrate operation and the automatic test to verify............Okie Dokie, Artichokie........Every thing worked..........Epilogue:.... LID;   lid would lock but the controller would not see it as locked......................ACTUATOR;   While the test at low R.P.M. indicated O.K. voltage wise and the machine performed the high R.P.M. for the correct length of time , ( I based time on the Automatic Test time )    then failure, with the test stopping and the lid lock light flashing .......I kinda look at the capacitor failing with a load... BUT, I was going back with a cap AND  the actuator.................................Now for truck stock.. #1) a lid lock, as before..........  #2) an actuator..................... Now #3)  capacitors of both flavors, 45 and 50 MFD.S............................................................................................................................The capacitor failure I have seen  on this model machine,  the innards had oozed out and was a melted, now hard plastic.........Looked like a tumor.....




#314913 Whirlpool Duet GHW91509PW0 - MCU board repair

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 07 March 2015 - 12:27 AM

You could purchase a new M.C.U. , When you get the new M.C.U, you could identify the component, and order it....In the mean time you can have the new controller installed so the laundry pile stays at a manageable size... :whistling: Especially if there is a family involved.......You can  turn the underwear inside out only so many times.... :woot: ......




#314912 Kenmore Mod# 417.27182702

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 07 March 2015 - 12:17 AM

I think it was  Budget that told me this trick a few years back.... :thumbsup: ......I also think Friggy is on their fourth or fifth part number for this pump................Older part numbers ended something like ***1100 and ***1200............and the latest part numbers they made the mounting foot/pad smaller..........I just reused the old foot/pad........




#314736 Kenmore Mod# 417.27182702

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 04 March 2015 - 08:06 PM

If I remember correctly, there is a screw driver slot on the shaft of the timer ......................Accessible from the rear, I.E. remove the top and swing it to the side.... Give it a try and post back......................Most  of the time it is the speed control board that it  failing,...Speed control board advances the timer........... but a slow pump could be a problem also.......Check the bottom of the timer to see if it got banged-up in a 'Wild Spin' scenario....................




#314696 Kenmore FL washer 110.42926203

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 04 March 2015 - 01:09 PM

You probably have done the basics, checked the connections at the board.....This one one the boards that have those 'pinch' type connections..........There is a video of The Grand Master doing a repair on this type of connector,.......Do not recall what the repair was for but this  may be just what you need for a  insolent  connection......... I.E. starting and stopping randomly.........Keep us posted.




#314235 KUDK03CTWH2 dishwasher not draining

Posted by certified tech group 51 on 26 February 2015 - 11:52 PM

Access the the sump, area of the chopper blade.....When you remove the  cover, look for a small black strip..............It is a flapper type valve...........Grab it and lift it up and out....Now reassemble every thing .............Start a cycle, fill and then cancel...........Will it drain completely???.................Only thing inbetween the sump and the drain pump ( and the check valve in the new drain hose )......................







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