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Member Since 16 Mar 2008
Offline Last Active Jun 19 2013 05:22 PM

Topics I've Started

GE Electric Stove/Oven JBP26G V3AD - miswired lower heating element = big flash and pop

16 August 2012 - 10:01 PM

The lower heating element on our GE electric oven, JBP26G V3AD, failed spectacularly last week (it seems the giant sparkler effect is not uncommon when the heating element is failing). I ordered the replacement element but screwed up rewiring it because I did not check the tech sheet/wiring diagram. (For those of you looking for the diagram it is likely attached to the body of the stove and hidden by the drawer - you have to remove the drawer to find it).

The wiring of this heating element needs to be clarified because there is misinformation (at some other sites!) or lack of information about it. The lower heating element has 3 wires connecting to it. Two of the wires are black, one is yellow. The two black wires attach to one terminal of the element, the yellow wire attaches to the other terminal. (The upper heating element has only two black wires attaching to it, one for each terminal).

According to the wiring diagram, this information on the wiring of the element applies to model numbers that start with JBP21G, JBP21S, JBP24G, JBP25G, JBP26G, JBP26W, JBP26A, JBP45G, JBP45W, JBP45A, JBP46G, and JBP47G.

So I miswired the lower heating element, plugged the unit in, turned the oven on, and almost immediately there was a flash and a loud pop from the control panel. The circuit breaker tripped, too.

I rewired the heating element properly, but now it is not heating up when the oven is turned on. The upper heating element works, as do the burners (well, I tested 2 of the 4 and they both worked). Also, some of clock functionality is screwed up - you can't change the time, for example.

Any ideas about what happened and what part or parts need testing/replacing?

I haven't tested the lower heating element for continuity yet.

Also, I will scan in and upload the wiring diagram in a few days when I have access to a scanner. This might help the diagnosis, and there seem to be a number of people looking for the diagram online but without success (not available from GE, for example).


Smoke and acrid smell from starter/compressor on Frigidaire FRS20ZRG side-by-side refri...

05 February 2009 - 12:55 PM

Noticed a funny, sweet yet acrid, electrical parts burning smell today.  My two and half year old said it smelled like tuna salad and he wasn't far off - more like someone burning a tuna melt, and then burning it some more, and some more.....it got less sweet smelling and more acrid as time passed.  Traced it to the back of the refrigerator.  Unplugged the refrigerator and decided to clean out the dust at the back- it was dusty, but I've seen much worse.  Plugged the unit back in and immediately saw smoke coming out from between the starter and the compressor and heard a strange noise from the starter.

Here's a link to the starter: 


Otherwise the refrigerator has been running normally - temperature fine in both sides, not frequently cycling on and off or running continuously that we've noticed.  The cardboard piece with insulation on it that covers the rear components has been off for some months as it was just falling apart and I never replaced it.

Is this likely to be just a problem with the starter or is it symptomatic of something more serious?

Is replacing the starter the way to go here, and is that something an apprentice appliantologist could handle?

Is that cardboard piece at the back important enough to replace?


Frigidaire Gallery Electric Dryer - Model# FDE648GHSO - drum turns but does not heat

16 March 2008 - 05:38 PM

Hello Appliance Masters,

I'm having trouble with a Frigidaire Gallery Electric Dryer - Model# FDE648GHSO.  The drum turns but there's no heat.  It's currently disassembled in my basement while I've been examining the electrical system.  The wiring diagram for this dryer is attached. 

Here's what I've verified:

- 240v at the outlet and at the block where the cord feeds into the dryer
- continuity of the control thermostat, the thermal limiter, and the high limit thermostat
- continuity of the heating element (although I expected it to have some resistance it showed 0 ohm)
- continuity of the timer motor
- continuity between timer terminals A, B, and C (see wiring diagram)
- continuity at the motor between terminals M4, M5,and M6

Here are some potential issues:

- No continuity at the timer between terminals H, X, and TM
- No continuity at the motor between terminals M1 and M2, but 240v across the yellow and black wires that attach to those terminals

I'm not sure which of the above 2 things represent problems as switches are involved and I'm not sure if they should be open or closed.  I'm thinking it's the M1-M2 connection across the motor, though.  Is this the "motor centrifugal switch" or is that the M4-5-6  connection?

Expert interpretation of these results and any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

GE Profile Triton Dishwasher - Model # GSD5330D02WW - not draining well on final pump o...

16 March 2008 - 05:12 PM

The appliance in question is a GE Profile Triton Dishwasher - Model # GSD5330D02WW.  The problem is that it is not draining sufficiently on the final pump out only.  This model is supposed to leave some water in the bottom, about 1-2 cups according to the owner's manual and the GE website.  This is to help "maintain the seal."  But ours leaves significantly more in the bottom.  Water is pumped out during the final pump out but about 1/2 the water remains.   Pump out after  all cycles prior to the final rinse is perfect.   And it doesn't matter which wash option is selected (e.g., normal wash, light wash), water still remains at the end only.  If you run repeated rinse options (which just has the fill and then the pump out), the amount of water left in the bottom steadily increases from one rinse option to the next.

There are many postings on GE dishwasher draining problems for this model and related ones.  I've followed them carefully but still haven't been able to solve the problem.  I've checked and cleaned the hoses from the disposal back to the air gap and down to the dishwasher, making sure flow is all downhill from the air gap to the disposal.  I replaced the piston and nut assembly.  The flapper check valve on the food collection box (the last valve the water encounters before entering the drain hose to the air gap) looks fine and seems to close properly.  There was no flapper check valve on the auxiliary pump where the water exits to the food collection box.  I replaced that valve with great hope but to no avail, the problem persists.  The auxiliary pump has continuity and pumps out completely when the test cycle is run (this is long pump out though).  I've thoroughly cleaned the entire drain system - it drains better than ever before when it does drain.  My dishwasher does not have a pump solenoid as far as I can tell.

A few questions:

1)  Does it make a difference which way that flapper check valve off the auxiliary pump faces?  One side of the flap says "out" - should that side face toward the pump or away from it?  (I had it installed one way for a month or so, recently flipped it with no effect on the draining, but I'm wondering if I had it installed backwards and now it's warped as a result).

2)  Final pump out is about 1 min 5 secs - any idea if this is long enough?  Other pump outs where it drains perfectly are also about 1 minute.  I'm wondering if it's a sequence switch problem.

3)  Related to question 2, the velocity of the final pump out is kind of weak compared to the other pump outs.  Is that because only the auxiliary pump is running?  And maybe it needs to run for longer, or maybe the aux. pump needs replacing.

4)  Any other ideas?

Thanks so much appliantologists!

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